From Edmunds.com
1990 Infiniti Q45 4 Dr STD Sedan Trade-In Private Party Dealer Retail National Base Price $1,736 $2,428 $3,580 Optional Equipment $0 $0 $0 Color AdjustmentGray $0 $0 $0 Regional Adjustmentfor Zip Code 30067 $23 $32 $47 Mileage Adjustment160,000 miles $-784 $-784 $-784 Condition AdjustmentRough $-638 $-881 $-1,286 Total $337 $795 $1,557 Currently 135,000 miles seems the point at which nothing is added or subtracted for mileage.
So $800 - $2500 is the bad to outstanding range with 135k.
Don't agree with the only $881 deduction from perfect to rough.
As we say you could be paying $2500 just to be able to pay another $3,000 to fix immediate problems or another $8-10,000 if you choose wrong.
Adding to the depression
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greg_atlanta
- Posts: 1111
- Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 4:37 pm
- Car: 2008 G35 Journey Sedan, silver/black (no sunroof), 1992 Q45 (in a past life)
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HeavyDuty
- Posts: 1281
- Joined: Tue Sep 23, 2003 4:51 pm
- Car: 1995 Infiniti Q45
95 Nissan 240SX S14
96 Nissan D21
06 Nissan 350Z Z33
Bought mine for $1,000, spent about $2,500 so far, trans, window reg/motor, wheel bearings, brakes, alternator, belts, etc.
But, the body is very, very straight, original paint, no body work, etc. I'll take this scenario over the reverse (wrecked &/or poorly repaired) any day.
I believe a well kept, clean, straight old car gets more looks than the newest top of the line.
But, the body is very, very straight, original paint, no body work, etc. I'll take this scenario over the reverse (wrecked &/or poorly repaired) any day.
I believe a well kept, clean, straight old car gets more looks than the newest top of the line.
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AZhitman
- Administrator
- Posts: 54542
- Joined: Mon Apr 29, 2002 2:04 am
- Car: 58 L210, 63 Bluebird RHD, 64 NL320, 65 SPL310, 66 411 RHD, 67 WRL411, 68 510 SR20, 75 280Z RB25, 77 620 SR20, 79 B310, 90 Z32, 91 GTi-R, 92 Silvia Qs, 98 S14, 23 Z.
- Location: Surprise, Arizona
- Contact:
Mine's as pristine as they come, and even paying what I did for it 3 years ago, it's still been one of the least expensive cars to maintain I've owned (the warranty helps:D).
I'm saving the money I should have spent over the past 3 years (and this coming year) and that should carry me forward for the next 3-4 years worth of maintenance and repairs.
I'm saving the money I should have spent over the past 3 years (and this coming year) and that should carry me forward for the next 3-4 years worth of maintenance and repairs.
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nuQ
- Posts: 1659
- Joined: Thu Jan 23, 2003 1:39 pm
- Car: 2003 Infiniti M45
2009 Dodge Caliber SXT - Location: Bethlehem PA
paid $4500 from a member here for my 90Q. put another $3000 in since feb. of this year (guides, plugs, oil pump, water pump, rims, tires, all synthetic fluid change). still look forward to getting in and driving it. still turn my head in parking lots, as i'm walking away, to admire it. still look forward to checking in here every night. pulled over today in my work van to tell a fellow Q owner about NICO!!!! obsessive???? maybe. but there is nothing better when someone mistakes my 90Q for a 99 or 2000 (OK, it's better to see the look on their face's when doing 50mph and the beast under the hood roars!!!!!LOL). seriously, the BEST car i've ever owned, bar nothing!! if anything happens to her (god forbid), i'd be shopping for another Q tomorrow. that says it all!
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HeavyDuty
- Posts: 1281
- Joined: Tue Sep 23, 2003 4:51 pm
- Car: 1995 Infiniti Q45
95 Nissan 240SX S14
96 Nissan D21
06 Nissan 350Z Z33
Hey Jes,
You & a couple of others asked about trans work, I promised info earlier this week. I will follow through, hopefully by Friday, my apologies, there are several different levels, pardon the pun.
On mine, I only went with the Kevlar clutches, a slightly reworked new converter & some minor valve body mods, plus all other 'soft parts', seals, etc.
Price for what I did would be around 2k + shipping. All top shelf parts,
(specifics available on request, as you already have, please bear with me)
but not set up too aggressive for what the car is. I could have stepped up the stall on the converter & increased the line pressure more to get a more crisp shift, but I'm hoping the JWT TCU will put it right where I want it. If not, I'll go back in & tweak it some more.
I just finished my 500 mile break in & it's already feeling really good, it doesn't "hunt" as much and the shifts are crisp but not harsh. Also, I've noticed a decrease in the hang time between 1st & 2nd.
You & a couple of others asked about trans work, I promised info earlier this week. I will follow through, hopefully by Friday, my apologies, there are several different levels, pardon the pun.
On mine, I only went with the Kevlar clutches, a slightly reworked new converter & some minor valve body mods, plus all other 'soft parts', seals, etc.
Price for what I did would be around 2k + shipping. All top shelf parts,
(specifics available on request, as you already have, please bear with me)
but not set up too aggressive for what the car is. I could have stepped up the stall on the converter & increased the line pressure more to get a more crisp shift, but I'm hoping the JWT TCU will put it right where I want it. If not, I'll go back in & tweak it some more.
I just finished my 500 mile break in & it's already feeling really good, it doesn't "hunt" as much and the shifts are crisp but not harsh. Also, I've noticed a decrease in the hang time between 1st & 2nd.
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Q45tech
- Moderator
- Posts: 14296
- Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
"it doesn't "hunt" as much"
Getting and maintaining as new power from the engine is the secret to good transmission performances as the tcu looks at the TPS voltage to measure load.
If you have to push the throttle even 5% more than it expects [due to tiny bit lower power at cruise] [preprogrammed] you could be right on the next step point as the throttle position is divided into 9 steps....closed, 1/8, 2/8, 3/8 etc.
This is where the clean TB, plenum, and runners, and matched injector flow comes in plus accurate MAF reading so that at 2,000 [or 1500] rpm the engine is producing enough to match the preprogrammed actions/expectations of the transmission.
Think about the fine resolution that lets you go 57 mph vs 55 or 59........you can even select 33 rpm = 1 mph differences.1.75/1000 or 1.80/1,000 of a second of fuel squirting.....230 increments of fuel........a little more than 1 per mile per hour.[1.0>12.5 in 0.05 increments.
Each Q car is different [different losses and power production]!
The exact same parameters feed to different ecu/engine combinations might produce a 2-3-4 mph differing speed. Thus the differing mpg.
Getting and maintaining as new power from the engine is the secret to good transmission performances as the tcu looks at the TPS voltage to measure load.
If you have to push the throttle even 5% more than it expects [due to tiny bit lower power at cruise] [preprogrammed] you could be right on the next step point as the throttle position is divided into 9 steps....closed, 1/8, 2/8, 3/8 etc.
This is where the clean TB, plenum, and runners, and matched injector flow comes in plus accurate MAF reading so that at 2,000 [or 1500] rpm the engine is producing enough to match the preprogrammed actions/expectations of the transmission.
Think about the fine resolution that lets you go 57 mph vs 55 or 59........you can even select 33 rpm = 1 mph differences.1.75/1000 or 1.80/1,000 of a second of fuel squirting.....230 increments of fuel........a little more than 1 per mile per hour.[1.0>12.5 in 0.05 increments.
Each Q car is different [different losses and power production]!
The exact same parameters feed to different ecu/engine combinations might produce a 2-3-4 mph differing speed. Thus the differing mpg.
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HeavyDuty
- Posts: 1281
- Joined: Tue Sep 23, 2003 4:51 pm
- Car: 1995 Infiniti Q45
95 Nissan 240SX S14
96 Nissan D21
06 Nissan 350Z Z33
I did recently clean my TB, (off the car, the right way) and cleaned/regrounded my maf, new fuel filter, but my trans was so bad the slipping made it act worse because it didn't understand why whatever input it was giving was not netting in the programmed result?
Right out of the shop I was sooo easy on it for 500 mi just because. A break in that long isn't really necessary, but why tempt fate? It was a litle soft because I was only giving enough throttle to move the car, no more. Now that I'm driving normal, it feels firm.
BTW, Orlando Infiniti regrounded the maf for the previous owner before I bought it......using 20 gauge wire, they abandoned the original ground & screwed the 'new' ground into a hole in the vc or exhaust man cover with a SHEETMETAL screw?!?!? When I bought it, I reached down to feel where they attached it & the ring terminal & screw fell out in my hand.
Right out of the shop I was sooo easy on it for 500 mi just because. A break in that long isn't really necessary, but why tempt fate? It was a litle soft because I was only giving enough throttle to move the car, no more. Now that I'm driving normal, it feels firm.
BTW, Orlando Infiniti regrounded the maf for the previous owner before I bought it......using 20 gauge wire, they abandoned the original ground & screwed the 'new' ground into a hole in the vc or exhaust man cover with a SHEETMETAL screw?!?!? When I bought it, I reached down to feel where they attached it & the ring terminal & screw fell out in my hand.