So I installed my camber ares and installed a adjustable traction arm.Now the first time I did it well the car's rear end kept trying to go sides over bumps and stuff.Went back to school my teacher explained to me why and that it's normal just have to adjust it since it has negative camber.

Today removed them again to lube up the Traction bars and camber arm.I also grinded down some of the traction bar pillow ball housing because it was rubbing and creeked.Anyways I didn't have a stock traction abr to match the settings so I had to guess.Yeah for fun I put negative camber all the way but this time after I guessed at what the traction bar setting was,the camber is more aggressive.I said I'll just drive it so I did.Now the car really wants to get side ways.Is this normal?Or could it be the traction arm making the car wiggle in the back?I'm going back to school at 2pm to set it up on the rack and adjust the arms.I was thinking of removing the traction bar and installing the OEM again.Any idea? Though the Neg Camber looks dope.

I gotta remove camber.My tires are following the grooves.Dammit!!!What does the tractiin bar do?
Modified by unknown007 at 1:18 PM 5/19/2009

When I went back to normal wheels from my lowenharts and set everything back to 0 my car started doing this too. I believe it's worn bushings, so check there.

it's your toe not camber.

feels like the rear is sliding around on ice right?

i'm not even going to touch on the fact of that you're trying to add camber (running ~5* on stock ruca) and stock wheels with a mild drop.

i won't mention how you should have spent that money on tension and toe rods so that you would be able to actually adjust the specs that mattered (toe, caster).

my suggestion is shorten the traction rods. sounds like you're toing out under compression. camber? you're teacher needs to get real.

He has NO idea what he is doing.....just a matter of time before he totally destroys his car in an accident.....teacher sounds like he must be a relative to be that clueless!!!

lasoyafan wrote:When I went back to normal wheels from my lowenharts and set everything back to 0 my car started doing this too. I believe it's worn bushings, so check there.

My bushings maybe worn but not worn like my tension rod was.Man was that thing torn up.By the way the camber shouldn't be 0 it says -1.5 if I remember correctly.

BLACKonBLACK98 wrote:it's your toe not camber.

feels like the rear is sliding around on ice right?

i'm not even going to touch on the fact of that you're trying to add camber (running ~5* on stock ruca) and stock wheels with a mild drop.

i won't mention how you should have spent that money on tension and toe rods so that you would be able to actually adjust the specs that mattered (toe, caster).

my suggestion is shorten the traction rods. sounds like you're toing out under compression. camber? you're teacher needs to get real.

I got everything back to stock.It was the camber.The toe is stock.I have tension rods already.Look at my muscle car thread pic.Well the traction bar is confusing I dunno what it does but controls caster in the rear or something.I researched and it said if you extend the arm then it's mostly used for rough tracks and shirking is for soft tracks.Dunno.Toe arm will be order sometime soon I hope.Well like I said got the camber to OEM -1.5 as what it says in the FSM and it controls like it did before now. I still need to level the car I'm trying to get coilover sleeves gonna try something out but not drive on it.Just a little fitting testing you know.If it works then I'll keep it if not then you know it goes for sale.Thanks for the explanation.My teach did explain to me but I just forgot what he really said.I mean I understand but I cant explain it.He explain it as what the suspension is doing and how when I had it on jacks it looked fine to me but really wasn't.So he was being pretty real maybe it's just the way I explain things.I need new tires too. Since I had a broken OEM bushing on my drive side it wore out the tires.I rotated them and the rear are the worn ones now.

qship96 wrote:He has NO idea what he is doing.....just a matter of time before he totally destroys his car in an accident.....teacher sounds like he must be a relative to be that clueless!!!

My teacher knows way more then you'll ever know so stop jumping on my ish! I'm sick of wasting 1minute reading your posts, and thinking hmmm maybe he has information but all I see is you posting BS.So take care of your wife you no life living sissy girl, matter fact I bet you don't even have a wife so GO FIND ONE!!!DAMN!!!By the way my teacher is like I dunno how old but he's built car's from ground up, he did track racing, he built suspension, he actually today let me borrow a book about suspension that I'm gonna read so just be quiet.He's also an engineer for your information

Excuse my immaturity but serious I'm sick or reading his non-helping BS.He's the type of guy who thinks he knows everything and doesn't go out.So whatever I'm just not gonna take his BS even if it's on a forum.Still wastes time.He does this to every person who comes here EVERY SINGLE ONE!!!He doesn't know nothing.You never stop learning so he needs to keep learning.Man!!! Qsh*t when ever you come to Cali call me so we can have lunch.

Will take pics of the arms in a bit maybe depends how hott it's outside.

unknown007 wrote:It was the camber.The toe is stock.I have tension rods already.Look at my muscle car thread pic.Well the traction bar is confusing I dunno what it does but controls caster in the rear or something.I researched and it said if you extend the arm then it's mostly used for rough tracks and shirking is for soft tracks.Dunno.Toe arm will be order sometime soon I hope.

your toe is most definitely not stock.

suspension geometry is pretty complicated and particularly so with multi-link. every thing you change changes in relation to everything else.

traction rods are:

SPL Parts wrote:used to alter rear suspension toe (bump steer) under suspension travel

while camber was not the problem, it makes perfect sense that the relationship between the traction rod and ruca, with the ruca maxed out, would cause the issues you were experiencing.

setting the camber back within reason is the best thing you could have done... don't tap into the camber until you really need it or you'll be making yourself look like a vip ricer.

i honestly hate running as much camber as i am with my current fitment but with my tire sizes it's necessary. made it 10x worse when someone told me "sick camber". i didn't think it was noticable.

My car look dope with the rear camber except once you see the rims it's like eh.....what is this suppose to be again lol.Yeah well I guess best thing to do is buy the toe arm and adjust all the arms at once.I just liked how the car dropped a bit more with the camber, but now it's more lifted oh well.That make sense maybe my teacher was trying to tell me that.Wella ctually he said you need all the arms set to OEM until you level the ride height.I have a bent front upper link.My passenger side is -2.9 camber in front and driver is 2.1 see the difference.And have less camber lifts the car up a bit so that's what's causing the weird height issue. Will keep you posted.How much camber you running?I maxed out at -4.9 or something like that.

My advice would be to look into upper control arm options.

BTW, I cleaned up your post. I understand your frustration, but here is not the place. Thanks bro.

unknown007 wrote:How much camber you running?I maxed out at -4.9 or something like that.

i'm right around there too.

Dope!!!Well does your car ride good as of now?

jltibbs if you can clean my posts why not just clean up qshi9p?he dirty anyways right? I just reread the post I sound like a Nerd hahaha without the frustration lol.

Front upper or rear?My rear's are from an S14.

Quick off topic question.Can I put Springs rate: 300F & 250R on my KYB GR-2?Don't ask what for just curious. You'll see.

out of curiousity, are you putting your car up on the alignment rack and dialing in your settings? or just eye balling it?

mista808 wrote:out of curiousity, are you putting your car up on the alignment rack and dialing in your settings? or just eye balling it?

I won't do an alignment until I get my upper link that's bent, have my car leveled, and get new tires since my rears that were in the front are almost out. I used a this for the camber.



It a level thing on top that has to be in the middle of the lines to read right.Also has caster on top.Then the digital reading is the camber.I was eyeballing it when I had the car on jacks.I decided to put it on the rack and adjust it with the car leveled.

Well if anybody knows what the max spring rate KYB GR-2 for Z32 can hold it'd be useful thanks.

gr2s are oem replacments and therefore designed for oem spring rates.

the much bigger issue is going to be bottoming out the dampers. the extra weight of the car already has you at a disadvantage since you will lose suspension travel to droop. then you add drop springs and you eat into it even more. then you add bumpy roads and wa la! you just let the magic juice out.

i would say unless you're going to do something the right way don't concern yourself with the details. just throw that s**t on and ride it 'til the wheels fall off.

BLACKonBLACK98 wrote:gr2s are oem replacments and therefore designed for oem

i would say unless you're going to do something the right way don't concern yourself with the details. just throw that s**t on and ride it 'til the wheels fall off.

So true, and the wheels will fall off- only question is WHEN!!!!

BLACKonBLACK98 wrote:gr2s are oem replacments and therefore designed for oem spring rates.

the much bigger issue is going to be bottoming out the dampers. the extra weight of the car already has you at a disadvantage since you will lose suspension travel to droop. then you add drop springs and you eat into it even more. then you add bumpy roads and wa la! you just let the magic juice out.

i would say unless you're going to do something the right way don't concern yourself with the details. just throw that s**t on and ride it 'til the wheels fall off.

Hahahah I so wouldn't ride til the wheels fall off.Ride til the wheels fly off. Well I called them yesterday but didn't take the time to post here.They are 15% softer then OEM therefore can hold 15% stiffer spring rate than OEM, according to KYB tech.I am planning on adding coilover sleeves and have a close to oem spring rate.Later on will I be able to finally afford coilovers.

Eh I'll see what I'll come up with all I know is I'm trying to do it the right way with good handling. I'll keep posted.

I borrowed a book all about suspension it's called How to make your car handle better

i'm not going to pretend like i know more than i do, but i will share what i do know.

dampers do not "hold" anything. the point is to match the damper to the spring. the spring absorbs/releases energy under compression/rebound. the damper serves to dissipate that energy so it is not transfered to the chassis.

to me "15% softer valving will handle 15% stiffer springs" sound like bs or at least misleading. it implies that a 200% stiffer spring would require a 200% softer damper. this is not the way it works. it does make sense that a firmer spring could use a softer damper since the energy transfer would be less, but a stiffer spring does not need a softer damper. perhaps to retain an oem level of comfort? still doesn't sound right. honestly, i dunno...

still, what's way more important is suspension travel. until you figure all that out valving is really inconsequential. riding bottomed out dampers is essentially a solid suspension (infinite spring rate).

Eh makes sense I dunno but I called KYB that's what they said I dunno.Thanks for sharing the info though it could come handy.I wish I had money for coilovers. We'll see I yet to wait for what I ordered but I might end up selling. Eh oh well.Thanks.

Back to killing the ants in my room.

i think you gotta actually put your car up on a rack, with sensors and all to fully understand what your suspensions specs are currently at... imo, in the rear, you would only need upper or lower control arms to dial in camber, and toe arms to dial in toe. those track arms are used to position the rear wheel and mostly drifter use them to adjust to track conditions, etc... im pretty sure the rear isnt all of the problem, its likely the front is out of spec too...

im trying to get my hands on some adjustable front upper control arms, and adjustable tension rods all for the front to dial in camber/caster... and in the rear i probably dont need components cuz i got everything set to where id like them...

Scroll up and it shows what I used.It was up on a rack and I levels the thing and it said -4.9 in the rears.LOL the fronts are -2.9 on passenger and -2.1 on driver.I'm probably not gonna worry about front camber right now I just want the car leveled.From there I'll go to buying more arms then taking it to a shop to get it done right.For now it's a DIY thing.Feel me?

Must drive and handle like a grocery cart with a bad wheel with those screwed up camber numbers! Hate to see the ABUSE those tires are taking!

qship96 wrote:Must drive and handle like a grocery cart with a bad wheel with those screwed up camber numbers! Hate to see the ABUSE those tires are taking!

I love to see the abuse on the tires.