adding a crank trigger wheel

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
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dhen
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This might sound stupid, but I figure better safe than sorry.

I'm researching adding a crank trigger wheel behind my crank pulley. It would be sandwiched between the pulley and the timing belt sprocket. I found a Ford one which has a very close bore (32mm - CA is 30). I plan on putting a bushing to reduce the size of the bore to 30mm. Here is a picture of what I'm talking about.

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This trigger wheel is 3/16 wide, which means the crank pulley would be out a little further. I would also have to grind off the lip below the sprocket for clearance. It's the part in the square.

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Other than being careful to not grind into where the oil pan seals, is there anything I should know before I do this?

Thanks


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themadscientist
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Most folks grind trigger teeth into the pulley flange.

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float_6969
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I would be REALLY leery about moving the crank pulley off of the keyway any more than it already is. The last thing you want in your life is a spun crank pulley and a ruined crank.

tommey
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What about doing it this way?
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I can send you the .IPT if you want to so you can go to a machinist and get it water/lasercut or machined.

Buddyworm
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Are we doing this on a stock ecu or...??

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dhen
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themadscientist wrote:Most folks grind trigger teeth into the pulley flange.
Any experience with this? If I did it it wouldn't look pretty.
tommey wrote:What about doing it this way?
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I can send you the .IPT if you want to so you can go to a machinist and get it water/lasercut or machined.
How did you get it on the pulley?

This is for an aftermarket EMS.

tommey
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Machine down the AC groove, heat the trigger wheel and put it on.

Buddyworm
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Why do you need to do this dhen? The CA CAS is capable of fully sequential injection and coil-on-plug ignition. Looks to me like you're just creating work for yourself.

What EMS?

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dhen
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My engine management is getting old and I don't want to invest more money in it. While it is working fine now, I want to go Megasquirt so that I can more easily do things like different injectors, added boost, MAP sensor, etc.

Buddyworm
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Setting up Haltech, Vipec, what have you is "easy". All I can say about MS is, "16x16 tables? What is this? 1980??"

For CAS sensor options google some flying magnet hall effect setups. SDSefi.com sells a beautiful little sensor that can be placed behind the crank pulley and senses magnets installed in the rear face of the pulley.

And yes, you should be able to use the sensor with any decent EMS. I converted an SR20 previously running SDS to Haltech and kept the sensor. Gives a rock solid timing signal.

1200ute
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Does the megasquirt need a home trigger on the cam as well or does the missing tooth on the crank look after this? I have a Haltech that i still need to wire up and they recommend a 12 tooth crank and single tooth cam triggers to enable full sequential operation and suitable resolution at high rpm. I have read the megasquirt can use a higher tooth count but didn't look further into it as i already had the Haltech.

Matej
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Buy a Ross balancer if you can splurge. They sell all kinds of bolt-on accessories for it, and it is guaranteed for life.
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dhen
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That's a really nice piece there, but I'm going to guess it's out of my price range.


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