Adding a amp and sub. quick questions

[SteelAvenger88]

I have a 01 I30. looking on adding a amp and a subs to the stock system. the amp im looking on getting is purchasing a a PZ 1100.2 Crunch amp and the subs i have are 2 Polk Audio/MOMO MM12 rated at 550RMS a piece so the amp bridged should do just fine.

the thing is what all do i need to hook this up to the factory system? i know i need a converter for the for the RCAs. do i need a specific one or anyone will do?

second will my stock radio have any issue pushing everything to get the bass im looking for and if it does will i still be able to hear my highs over the bass.

thanks for any advice or tips or knowledge that anyone has

[audtatious]

Realize the amp is only 4ohm stable bridged so you will need to run the amp in non-bridged mode.

For connectivity, if the amp has speaker-level inputs you can tap into the factory wiring. If RCA only then I would suggest a converter.

[SteelAvenger88]

what do you mean its only 4ohm stable bridged? i was told that is what i would need because my subs are SVC 4ohm each and non bridged at 4ohms the amp is rated at 112.5 per channel but bridged at 4 ohm it get 550x1 so when i bridge it am i actually doubling the ohms to 8 or something?

speaker level inputs i can tap the factory wiring so i wouldnt need to touch the deck right and it would just turn on and off just from that right?

[jltibbs]

Matt speaks truth. You can run one sub per channel, 4ohm, 137.5w RMS per sub, 275w max. If you run it bridged, you have a couple of options:

1) Run one sub bridged (by itself), 4ohm, 550w rms, 1100w peak
2) Run the subs parallel, bridging the amp at 2ohm, which will try and pull double the power from the amp (1100w RMS, 2200w peak; of which it will obviously not work)
3) Run the subs in series, bridging the amp at 8ohm, which will cut your power in half (225w RMS, 550w peak).

Now with all of that explained, back to Matt's point, the amp is only stable at 4ohm bridged. So running it in 2 or 8 ohm will not be nominal, and you would more than likely damage the amp, subs, or possibly your electrical system.

Hopefully this helps.

[SteelAvenger88]

crap so i guess i have to find a different amp. the only reason why i was looking at that one is because it was $60. the shop that has that one got tons of amps i just gotta figure out one to get cuz i saw another crunch 2000.1 for $100 and a kicker 1000 w for $150

[jltibbs]

Take your smart phone or laptop with you and research them so you know what they are capable of. What I would suggest is an 800-1000w, class D, single channel mono block amp, that's 2 ohm stable (run the subs in parallel). That will give you 400-500w of clean power. Also as a side note, look at what fuses the amp calls for. This way you can tell the actual capability of the amp. For instance, if the amp calls for two 30A fuses, then the amp is only capable of producing 600w (30+30=60; 60x10=600). The reason I throw that in there is because some amps say "1500w", yet they have one 40A fuse, only allowing 400w of power to pass.

Helpful?

[audtatious]

Optionally you can use that amp but you will need to use 8ohm subs instead of 4ohm.

To note:
- Running bridged at 8ohm (subs in series) IS cutting half the output but that does not equate to half the volume...it's -3db down.
- Twice the volume is roughly 10x the power

[SteelAvenger88]

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_175 ... 000.1.html
this is the crunch i was refering to. but im somewhat confused. how will i be able to run them off the mono instead of the the 2 channel? i mean i have some knowledge but this is where it stops lol

[audtatious]

That amp does support 1ohm so you can use those subs in parallel....it does NOT have speaker level inputs so you will need a high/low converter if attaching to the factory system.

Parallel wiring:

[SteelAvenger88]

well those two are sold they just told me so this is my next bite at an amp
http://rochester.craigslist.org/ele/3072726713.html

[audtatious]

If that's the MRP-M1000 then it does support a 2ohm load as a monoblock and has speaker level inputs as well. I have the MRP-M450 sitting out in the garage as I used it to run my sub in my Maxima.

[SteelAvenger88]

That one us done for too.I can't catch a break. What would be a good budget amp. I seen Sony monos but I hear terrible things about them

[audtatious]

I don't know about products today. I have not bought any car audio in over 7+ years.

[SteelAvenger88]

Ok so let me see if I understand correctly. If my subs are 4ohm a piece. And I run them in parallel.then I would would have to find a 2ohm stable amp right?

[SteelAvenger88]

And I can find a mono block that can handle at least 550 rms @ 2ohm or 1100@ 2 ohm?

[audtatious]

Ok so let me see if I understand correctly. If my subs are 4ohm a piece. And I run them in parallel.then I would would have to find a 2ohm stable amp right?

Correct.

[SteelAvenger88]

UPDATE!!!!!
Finally found a amp. Alpine MRP-M1000. Looking at getting my 4 gauge kit in a couple days. I just wanna make sure I have everything in check before I do the install myself ( plan on making a video for YouTube.

2 SVC 4 ohm subs 550 RMS a piece ran in parallel brings it down to 2 ohm load which the amp can push out 1000 RMS at that impedance.

Since i'm hooking it up to my stock BOSE radio I can either buy LOC( line out converter) that has two RCA jacks that I can just plug into my amp. OR use my speaker level inputs by buying the connector end for a couple dollars and splicing into my Bose sub in the rear deck for the signal and to make sure the music that goes to my subs are nothing but low tones and hook everything else up accordingly.

Last question...where can I hook my remote wire to?

[SteelAvenger88]

I BLEW A SUB!! THIS ALPINE AMP IS TOO MUCH!!!