Guys

I was suspecting that my igniter had a problem when I started developing a random miss on cylinder 4. I would get the miss sporadically and most of the time once the miss started, I could shut the car off, turn it back on and it would be gone. In adddition to that, the 6pin connector on my rb26 igniter was broken off, so the connection was a little 'loose'. I noticed when I played around with that connection my miss would sometimes go away.

I saw Carl H's post regarding swapping the J30 igniter so I knew it could be done, however he has mainly text documentation. I went through this process and took good thorough pictures with hopes of assisting others.

Through the years of working on Z32's I've acquired junk wiring harness and lots of spare parts. It just so happened that I had a good Z32 igniter (we call it a PTU) sitting around, as well as an old harness. I clipped the pigtails so I got good conditioned harnesses. Here is the assembly we'll be swapping in.



Since I wanted to ease installation, I chose to use the old clips, as it would be more simple to transfer the wires 1 by 1 over to the new harness instead of depinning them all on the rb harness and risk mixing them up (i know its not rocket science but im all about logistics!)

Start by removing the yellow retainer clip



Now that the clip is removed, you can begin de-pinning it. I used a pic tool (as shown below) to release the clips and then pull the wire out the backside





It should take literally 1 mintue to remove these safely



Now do the same to the other harness



Here we have both 6 and 7 pin harness clips and the Z32 igniter



Here is the schematic for the Z32 igniter.



Here is the stock RB configuration. Notice the 7 pin on the right, 6 pin on the left. The orientation is switched on the Z32 igniter. The 6 pin will be on the right and the 7 pin will be on the left.



Here's a good picture of what I just previously referenced



I started to work with the right side first, transitioning the wires from the 7-pin connector, to the new 6-pin connector. The first wire I removed was the ground. You can note which wire is ground by looking on the igniter itsself. It will be labeled "E". Notice coil wires 1 and 2 have already been moved from the 7pin to the 6pin connector



Pictured below the new 6pin connector is now complete. You should have one wire left over that is black, which is the ground wire. The old connector is on top.



Next you will need to extend that black ground wire to reach over to the other side of the igniter. About 6" will do. I soldered and shrink wrapped the connection





The first thing you can do now is take that ground wire and stick it in the new 7pin connector. It will go in the exact middle like below



Now we will begin depinning the old 6pin connector and transfering wires over to the new 7pin connector. Here is the stock rb configuration



In this next picture I have moved coil #1 wire over to the new harness. Do this with the remaining 5 coil wires. They stay in the same order (with the ground being the 4th from the left)



Here we have the completed configuration.



I am happy to report the car fired right up, but I havent yet tested to see if my miss is gone. The car will need to warm up and I'll need to take it for a spin.

Hope this helps some guys out, happy RB'ing!

werd, same thing as my write up but with pictuarz.i'll post a link in the thread i did for future refrence, i was too lazy at the time to take a pic :p .

I not very bright, I like pics. Thanks, I'll sticky this with Carls original!

Nice writeup Andy! I will bookmark this as well

Getting ready to try this tomorrow, crossing my fingers that it fixes my problem!

good deal.

just as a side note:

Z32 ignitor is the same as the S1 RB25DET

i'm 100% positive.

it is, but when i wrote my faq i wasnt sure...had to get up close and personal to one to verify.

Well I have the ignitor wired up, haven't tried to start it yet since my battery nearly dead, I'll let you guys know how it is with a new battery.

DJButton wrote:Well I have the ignitor wired up, haven't tried to start it yet since my battery nearly dead, I'll let you guys know how it is with a new battery.

DJ

How'd it turn out? You gonna sticky this?

This procedure will be the same for an rb25, correct? And does the Series 2 rb25 not have an ignitor chip and only has an 8pin plug, one with 4rows on top and 4rows on bottom?

Thanks!

Most pictures I've seen of 25's they already have the same style ignitor as J30 or Z, but we'll see what a 25 guys says.

Booztd 3 wrote:DJ

How'd it turn out? You gonna sticky this?

Turned out great for me, lovin the pics, made it a 20 minute process only cause I'm anal about soldering and heat shrink. Not sure if we'll sticky it, but we should add it to the sticky with swap info etc at least, have a link to it, wonderful info!

after reading carls write up and now this write up

You guys are saying the 300zx is exactly the same for rb25? Im talking PnP same?Or just all the wire colors for this rb26 write up, i have been reading threads for hours trying to figure out my rough start up... sorry if im being way stupid on not reading this right

skribblah wrote:good deal.

just as a side note:

Z32 ignitor is the same as the S1 RB25DET

i'm 100% positive.

For the RB25, the Z32 is an exact match. Plug N Play. No wiring.

Darius wrote:For the RB25, the Z32 is an exact match. Plug N Play. No wiring.

thank you much Darius, maybe i should just email you a list of questions i have...

this write-up is mostly aimed towards Rb20 and rb26

Booztd 3

Thank you so much for this writeup! This has been a serious headache for me. I was pretty sure I had a Z32 ignitor, however, I was not aware that it needed to be wired differently.

I smoked a ECU, but lucilly not enough of the magic smoke escaped, so it is actually still good, we took off the top and found the area it got hot (we tried again to get it hot to see which pins, which were ignition...) and tested the resistors and they got hot, but not wasted...

I will get this driveable this weekend!

Now if someone would make a non-ADD version of the wiring swap...going from engine bay to interior...

Also big thanks to CarlH. He has posted a lot of good information as well, but with less pics.

Finally, my RB vert is coming alive...

This might be dumb, but I'll throw it out there any way.

Is Z32 ignitor same as J30 from vg30de or, Maxima with vg30de? I'm thinking yes, but not sure.

Cause I have few spare J30 ignitors and N62 Mafs sitting around. ,

By the way is there anyway to check and verify if Z32 ignitor or N62 MAF is good with out putting on the car, before I check FSM. Perhaps using digital volt/ohm meter?

placham wrote:This might be dumb, but I'll throw it out there any way.

Is Z32 ignitor same as J30 from vg30de or, Maxima with vg30de? I'm thinking yes, but not sure.

Cause I have few spare J30 ignitors and N62 Mafs sitting around. ,

By the way is there anyway to check and verify if Z32 ignitor or N62 MAF is good with out putting on the car, before I check FSM. Perhaps using digital volt/ohm meter?

I am not sure, but you could always google the part number.

hey i tried this a couple weeks ago and i wired it perfectly from the pics and carl H. writeups. but my car didnt start. ive had a wierd spark problem for a while came to find out my ecu was fried. i got a new one and rewired for the stock rb20 ignitor and no i fire on like 2 cylinders. car starts and everything but only on 2 cylinders. just wondering if the j30 ignitors are the exact same because the one i used just melted and it didnt have any mitsubishi or hitachi on it it was just plain and said nissan.

bump

Darius wrote:For the RB25, the Z32 is an exact match. Plug N Play. No wiring.

I'm pretty sure Darius has it right, but if you have any doubts, the pins should be labeled on each side of the igniter. Just check them out real quick.

Good write up buddy. I know the first time I did this conversion was years ago, carls write up helped a lot but this was literally the first car project I ever did (rb swap that is). I had some trouble, but the pictures should be a nice addition!

I have since removed my igniter from the equation and switched to vq30 Maxima coils with individual power transistors. I find these things to be much more common, perhaps they're even a better design than the RB20/26 coils (10 years newer). Oh and I also found about 18 of them laying around my shop with plugs. I guess I was just flat out sick of replacing coil packs on my RB. I had 3 bad when I got the motor, and replaced probably 7 total in the time its been in my car (over 4 years).

Perhaps I should do a write up for those wanting to get rid of their igniter and switching to the newer coil pack.

Thanks again for the contribution-Max

Edit: Just realized this was from '07, damn I'm retarded.

If I remember this thread correctly, CarlH edited his first post to say that the Z32 and RB25 ignitors are the same and no wiring modifications were needed. There is a couple different part numbers varying by a "1" at the end, but I cannot remember exactly what the rest of it is. Google it and you'll find your answer in a hurry.

ive already done this, but i wired it wrong so when i turned the car over it didnt fire and the ignitor got a little warm. when i fixed the wiring it ran fine but would crap out in high boost but that was fixed by adjusting the timing. anways were yu getting a code 21? thats what i have now and i have a small miss at idle-2500 rpm but only in nutral doesnt do it when i drive.
im thinkng i may have messed it up or something else is messed up i did all the test pre FSM but everything checked out ok.. any thoughts anyone?

you probably fried the ignitor wiring it wrong...hence the code.

thanks carl H.
this is the write up i used to do my swap, but i am starting think even though it still runs pretty good it might have messed it up..
so im thinking about bying a new ignitor.

i have one more question for you carl...
when im diving the car and nail the throttle and hold it wide open it pulls grate no problems but out of no where it just cuts out! i can let off the thorottle and hit the gas again and it is fine for a few seconds and it will do it again normally only does this if i hold it at wot for a few sec.

whats your thoughts?
thanks and sorry for all the questions

Hey sorry to bring this back but i just wanted to make sure this was the right one.



Also does anyone know how to get the search bar, control panel options off the right side of the screen. it is literally cutting my forum screen in half and i can only see half the pictures. the text is fine just cuts off the pics.

up your screen resolution and yes that is the correct retrofit kit.
you wont need the sub harness but depin the connector shells as it will make it much easier to rewire it without getting the wires mixed up.

HEY ANDY I WANTED TO KNOW IF YOU CAN HELP ME OUT I NEED A STEP BY STEP ON HOW TO WIRE MY Z32 TO MY RB20DET IGNITOR HARNESS CUS MY Z32 IGNITOT STILL HAS THE PIGTAILS ON IT PLEASE HELP!....

hate reviving a thread, I'm want to wire up my z32 PTU to my RB20 but the pictures forthe instructions are gone, does anybody still have them or link me to where I can find them?

I found some wiring pics for a 300zx ptu upgrade but not sure if the wiring is the same with rb20s. Any help would be appreciated.