) would need grinding to unlock their true potential. So anyway, PDM-Racing cams---$300 plus core cams, and assuming I have all the shims, what would a decent shop (someone who knows what the hell they are doing) charge to remove/install both cams? We talkin $200? more or less? thanks On a note about the NISMO ones---the stock ones available, are they $300 for both cams? and they are brand new, correct? How much power would be expected from the NISMO ones w/o grinding? Thanks:ylsuper
Actual PRICE of PDM-Racing cam installation?!?!?
Actual PRICE of PDM-Racing cam installation?!?!?
The next mod I'll most likely do (after my short shifter) will be the PDM-Racing cams---I like the company who makes them and their reputation, and when they say 10 hp, I believe them. The only reason I shy away from the NISMO ones is because i know the ones available to the public (ie, not you, technoman ) would need grinding to unlock their true potential. So anyway, PDM-Racing cams---$300 plus core cams, and assuming I have all the shims, what would a decent shop (someone who knows what the hell they are doing) charge to remove/install both cams? We talkin $200? more or less? thanks On a note about the NISMO ones---the stock ones available, are they $300 for both cams? and they are brand new, correct? How much power would be expected from the NISMO ones w/o grinding? Thanks:ylsuper
) would need grinding to unlock their true potential. So anyway, PDM-Racing cams---$300 plus core cams, and assuming I have all the shims, what would a decent shop (someone who knows what the hell they are doing) charge to remove/install both cams? We talkin $200? more or less? thanks On a note about the NISMO ones---the stock ones available, are they $300 for both cams? and they are brand new, correct? How much power would be expected from the NISMO ones w/o grinding? Thanks:ylsuper
thanks
how long did it take to install you/how precise did you have to be/what did you have to know before you did it? I've never had the valve cover off...
Pull the valve cover off. On my SOHC its 8 10mm bolts. Then you are looking at your rocker arms. Your cam(s) lie beneath them. Remove the bolt(s) that hold your cam sprocket(s) to the camshaft(s). Remove the 10mm bolts that hold the rocker arm shafts on. Remove the rocker arm shafts. There should be some camshaft retainers (kinda big, bearing shaped things) that can just be pulled up. Keep everything in order, they only go back on the way they came off. Pull your camshaft(s) off. Lube up the new one(s) with lithium based grease or clean motor oil and lay them in. As long as you have not removed your cam sprocket(s) you should be able to rotate the cam(s) to line the dowel(s) up with the hole(s) on your sprocket(s). Reinstall the bolt(s) that holds the sprocket(s) to the camshaft(s), replace the camshaft bearing cap(s) and reinstall the rocker arm assemblies. Make sure you tighten the rocker arm assemblies from middle to each end sequentially. Replace your valve cover. Pray to God. Fire her up! Seriously, get a Chiltons (it has a exploded diagram of the cylinder head and the cams), or the Factory Service Manual. If you own a socket set, i think you can change your cam(s). Sorry for all the (s)'s, im not sure if u have a DOHC or SOHC. LOL
I have pdm cams in my 92, yes they are worth some power, not 10hp like the website claims. I have the cams, ported head, with welded combustion chambers for 10.2-1 ratio, gude header, injun intake with cai, made 153.6hp on a dynojet. My friends 91 has a ported head-same person, Me, without the welding job, stock cams, no intake, hotshot header, he put out 143.3hp not the same day mind you but a good indication anyway. So about 10 hp difference with the cams, more compression and the injun intake.
My experience with these cams is that they're so mild theres no loss in torque, and I've compared my car with another, on a dynojet, it doesn't lie. As far as the rev limiter is concerned, yeah it'll get up there quicker than stock, but the tach moves quicker between 5 and 6g than 6 to 7g, it still on the down side of the powerband after 6g.
Cam torque procedure
I spent sunday this week taking the head off of my KA24DE to replace a "blown head gasket" and taking off the cams was about as straight forward as you can imagine.
Make sure you keep all of the parts in the same place they came off of, and here is the torque sequence!
REMOVAL - after taking of the valve cover/cam sprockets
intake12 8 4 2 6 10| | | | | |11 7 3 1 5 9| | | | | |exhaust
Installation is above torque sequence reversed.
BTW I lost compression in my 3rd and 4th cylinders while driving on the highway at high RPMs. Compression tested the motor and cyl 1&2 showed 180 while 3&4 showed ~90... The car didn't overheat, I removed the head, the gasket and the block appear to be in perfect condition-rings seem to be fine (leakedown test was performed). Anyone have an idea what could be the cause if the head isn't warped (taking the head in to get tested for that tomorrow)
-Jeff95 240sx SE
Make sure you keep all of the parts in the same place they came off of, and here is the torque sequence!
REMOVAL - after taking of the valve cover/cam sprockets
intake12 8 4 2 6 10| | | | | |11 7 3 1 5 9| | | | | |exhaust
Installation is above torque sequence reversed.
BTW I lost compression in my 3rd and 4th cylinders while driving on the highway at high RPMs. Compression tested the motor and cyl 1&2 showed 180 while 3&4 showed ~90... The car didn't overheat, I removed the head, the gasket and the block appear to be in perfect condition-rings seem to be fine (leakedown test was performed). Anyone have an idea what could be the cause if the head isn't warped (taking the head in to get tested for that tomorrow)
-Jeff95 240sx SE
"torque sequence"
Didn't really mean torque sequence 
it was a bit late - that is the removal order... meaning you should loosen the bolts in that order and tighten them in the reverse order... you should also remove these bolts in 2-3 steps (IE don't just unscrew each one copmpletely in that order, do it in 2-3 steps.)
good luck I'm thinking about getting some of those cams myself.
-Jeff
it was a bit late - that is the removal order... meaning you should loosen the bolts in that order and tighten them in the reverse order... you should also remove these bolts in 2-3 steps (IE don't just unscrew each one copmpletely in that order, do it in 2-3 steps.)good luck
I'm thinking about getting some of those cams myself.-Jeff
Cost ro remove/install
Assuming average mechanic @ $50/hr it should NOT take any more than 2 hours (if *I* can do it in an hour 
) - $100.00 IMHO.
-Jeff
) - $100.00 IMHO.-Jeff
One more thing I forgot...
You will have to remove the stock cams, and remove the valve lifters from the head then you will have to separate the shims from the lifters and get all of the numbers from the bottom of them for PDM... REMEMBER THE LIFTERS MUST GO BACK EXACTLY WHERE THEY CAME FROM
-Jeff
-Jeff
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