Accelaration Issue with my Rogue

[mseaz9]

Hello,

I have a Nissan Rogue SL 2016 68K KM . I had an acceleration issue on highway after a long drive (2hrs ) even after flooring the accelerator no pick up . I had no check engine light . I brought it to Nissan dealership next day (acceleration was fine next day) thinking it's a transmission issue. They told me it required a software update. After the fix , It was driving fine although I feel like the acceleration is not 100% but I was told that's how CVT works.

Long story short my car is always used on short trip (city) but I realize this issue only happens when I go on long trips and after reading on this forum what I gather is that this issue happens once car gets hot. I got it checked again and no codes were detected they told me everything is A ok.

Would a CVT fluid flush help or fix my issue ? I was told they checked the level and deterioration rate but no other info was given to me. I doubt that it was done. Also I have never done n e cvt fluid flush or change.
I am also being told you can try the flush but potentially it can kill the transmission? Any recommendation is appreciated.

Thank You

[VStar650CL]

You need to see if the dealership uploaded the CVT-A/CVT-B values from the TCM. Those are an "overheat record" as opposed to codes, but they'll be the only evidence if your transmission is running hot. You need to do an extra operation to read them with the dealership Consult scanner, and if there aren't any codes, guys often forget to look. The problem is that the TCM doesn't throw codes or turn on the MIL for overheating, it simply goes into limp mode until it cools off. But it does record each episode in CVT-A/CVT-B, so the evidence will be there if you look. Both parameters should be zero. If they aren't, then your transmission has a metaphoric hot-foot.

You can read the values yourself for under $20 if you have a Droid phone. Get an ELM327 adaptor for your OBD port and download the CVTz50 app. For the adaptor I recommend a VeePeak VP11, it's the cheapest ELM327 that works right with CVTz50 (not all do). Once you get hooked up, hit the "CVT INFORMATION" button and your CVT-A/CVT-B record will be right there.

Vis a flush, any sort of back-flushing is a no-no. You're much better off doing a couple of quick spill-and-fills (say, 1K apart) and drop the pan for one of them to clean out any gunk (there will definitely be some black residue and metal on the magnets, how much you see of each will tell you a lot). There's nothing wrong with taking the radiator heat exchanger loose and back-flushing that if you want to, but make sure you use a CVT-compatible solvent. If in doubt, Nissan sells a canned one. To keep the cost down, go with a good aftermarket fluid like Eneos, Indemitsu, or AMSoil in lieu of NS3. I personally like Eneos Eco, it's almost the same color as NS3 and actually outperforms it. None of the three I mentioned have miscibility issues, they'll all mix freely with the existing NS3.

[mseaz9]

You need to see if the dealership uploaded the CVT-A/CVT-B values from the TCM. Those are an "overheat record" as opposed to codes, but they'll be the only evidence if your transmission is running hot. You need to do an extra operation to read them with the dealership Consult scanner, and if there aren't any codes, guys often forget to look. The problem is that the TCM doesn't throw codes or turn on the MIL for overheating, it simply goes into limp mode until it cools off. But it does record each episode in CVT-A/CVT-B, so the evidence will be there if you look. Both parameters should be zero. If they aren't, then your transmission has a metaphoric hot-foot.

You can read the values yourself for under $20 if you have a Droid phone. Get an ELM327 adaptor for your OBD port and download the CVTz50 app. For the adaptor I recommend a VeePeak VP11, it's the cheapest ELM327 that works right with CVTz50 (not all do). Once you get hooked up, hit the "CVT INFORMATION" button and your CVT-A/CVT-B record will be right there. I will give this a try

Vis a flush, any sort of back-flushing is a no-no. You're much better off doing a couple of quick spill-and-fills (say, 1K apart) and drop the pan for one of them to clean out any gunk (there will definitely be some black residue and metal on the magnets, how much you see of each will tell you a lot). There's nothing wrong with taking the radiator heat exchanger loose and back-flushing that if you want to, but make sure you use a CVT-compatible solvent. If in doubt, Nissan sells a canned one. To keep the cost down, go with a good aftermarket fluid like Eneos, Indemitsu, or AMSoil in lieu of NS3. I personally like Eneos Eco, it's almost the same color as NS3 and actually outperforms it. None of the three I mentioned have miscibility issues, they'll all mix freely with the existing NS3.

I asked the Nissan dealership after reading many posts how the flush or change of fluids have fixed similar issue on this forum and they only offered me to flush and reset deterioration rate . And also it mentions in severe condition to flush every 30K miles so I am confused why it's a no-no ? can you tell me why . Also what service can I ask the dealer to do for quick spills.

Thank you very much for taking the time to reply.

[VStar650CL]

Changing fluid isn't a flush. Dealers call it that, but what they actually do is a spill-and-fill. Power-flushing or back-flushing are no-nos, especially back-flushing. Nissan does not recommend a fluid change at all on the gen2 Rogue except for severe service, and then only at 60K:
https://owners.nissanusa.com/content/te ... -guide.pdf

That's part of why CVT's have a bad rep, but that's a tale for another time and place. The dealer wasn't giving you bad advice to get fresh fluid in it at 30K, even though the manuals don't say that anywhere. Even the FSM's don't recommend flushing anything except the heat exchanger, even as part of an overhaul. What the dealer was doing was misleading you about the service (calling a change a flush), and misleading you about what Nissan recommends (even though that's a good thing, because what Nissan recommends will kill your transmission).