2005 Maxima SE

Which lights stay on normally when you just have the key at acc position.
Right now the usual lights come on then go out in the first stage. But when I leave the key there the Oil Pressure Light and Service Engine Soon light remain lit. But they arent on when the car is on/normal driving. So Im just wondering if thats normal?

Other issues:

Parking Brake Light: doesnt come on at all. Maybe a burnt out bulb. Or something else?

Im having issues with abs/slip/vdc off coming on out of no where when im driving and all of a sudden I cant accelerate at all - no response from the pedal and i feel the abs vibrating. Then all of a sudden the lights go off and everything is back to normal. The dash lights flicker slightly while its happening - No codes though says the stealership from the abs/vdc. No SES either. The issue is REALLY BAD WHEN IT RAINS. I cant even drive two blocks. This issue happens when im travelling in 1st or 2nd gear usually in traffic just after im stopped.

Notes:
- Replaced upstream o2 sensor near the firewall, stealership told me to do it.
Didnt work.

- I had a power steering leak from the sensor switch which I just replaced today. Leak seems to have stopped. But likely unrelated?

- ABS Relays and Fuses all seem fine. Though my Day Time Running Lights's dont come on. That relay is probably shot but it doesnt bother me. Been like that since I bought the car.
- Did ATF tranny flush with Nissan Matic K fluid. Put in 6 bottles.
- Brake pedal switch seems fine as brake lights do come on? Does that mean its good?
- Gas pedal sensor switch, im not sure. Could be?
- Steering angle sensor? Doubtful.
- Throttle Position Sensor? Wouldn't that throw a SES (CEL) and a code?
- Camshaft Pos Sen? Wouldn't that throw a SES (CEL) and a code?
- Alternator? Seems recently replaced. Or was at some point by previous owner. Could it cut out when driving and then kick back in? Causing the abs to start vibrating and vdc/slip lights to come on? (But no SES or any other light)

- ABS Wheel Speed Sensors seems to be the most common response - but No codes for any abs wheel speed sensors but dealership said they were fine when they scanned. But I doubt they physically checked to see how dirty the hubs were etc. And there was that service bulletin on the rear right to notch out a drainage hole. I am thinking of just replacing this sensor and doing it anyways? Buying a $40 one. The main brand and OEM ones are $300. Wtf.

- Front struts are shot. But unrelated Im sure.
Just listing everything I can think of here.

I am totally at a loss for what else this could be. Ive researched for days. Ive spent over $1100 on the car this week and I'm using payday loans to do it. I even checked for coins in the A/C amplifier like some suggested.

I am missing that blue clip on the 12v cigarette lighter connector. Could this have anything to do with it? I am desperate.

I HAVE RESEARCHED TO DEATH. WHEN TO 4 MECHANIC SHOPS. NOBODY KNOWS. Ive checked all connectors that can be seen and made sure they are tight and no wires seem to be coming out or frayed or anything like that. But I havent had anyone check these things with a voltmeter.

On the Infiniti's when those three lights come on, believe or not, it means the brake fluid (I believe) is low. I kid you not. Check all of your fluid levels.

As for the stuttering/acceleration issue...it sounds like the car is going into limp mode. The SES might be off but there may be a pending code in there that hasn't completely triggered yet. The dealer says there aren't even any pending codes?

What's the condition of the MAF (mass airflow sensor)? Nissan ones are VERY sensitive. You could try cleaning it with special MAF cleaner (NOTHING ELSE!!!!!!) and see if that helps out.

The Cam/Crankshaft position sensors can be removed and cleaned (they are usually covered in a thin film of metal shavings/oil). You could try that.

unplug maf when car is idling
if it runs better the maf is probably bad
try cleaning it first though as Ilya says

I had this same issue. Turned out to be my alternator. I had a valve cover leak that was dripping onto it and after a prolonged period it fried the alternator.

UPDATE:

2005 SE.

Jumpy idle all of a sudden and no acceleration then car goes into limp mode. This happens more so at slow idle like speeds but it also did it to me going 80mph the other day on the highway.

I took the car to the dealership before and they replaced the Negative Ground Cable to the battery. The issue went away for 2 months. Now its back with a vengeance. AS SOON as the car gets to normal operating temperature. Its done. I can't even drive it for 15-20 minutes. I've been to SIX shops. 2 DEALERSHIPS. Nobody knows whats wrong.

What I have replaced with new parts mostly OEM:

- 2 Upstream NTK Oxygen O2 Sensors (Air/Fuel Ratio Sensors)
- Swapped Mass Air Flow from a Murano. No change.
- All new NTK Spark Plugs (coils seemed to have no signs of cracks either)
- Throttle Body (TPS is on it)
- PCV Valve
- Air Filter
- Oil changes always on time. But car burns Mobil 1 5w30 like crazy.
- Negative Ground Cable
- Right Rear Wheel Hub (originally though it could be ABS Speed Sensor there too but nope)
- Power Steering High Pressure hose (aftermarket POS) and OEM Pressure Sensor Switch (now I have that lovely little whine that most people get with the aftermarket hose lol)
- Did 2 idle relearns at the dealership too

I've done all of this to my car in 6 months. I just bought this car last Sept. I'm pretty ****ing pissed off. I've spent more than I paid for the car in repairs and rental cars since I bought it. I miss my 4th gens.

I saw someone mention they re-grounded the MAF. But I haven't tried that myself. But still. this only seems to happen soon as car gets hot.

Alternator ground wire strap or whatever I have asked the mechanic to look at and he says its good.

I have a crack in my exhaust where the downstream right side O2 sits. Giving me a code for that O2. Where that pre cat is. But that surely couldn't be the issue could it? Why would this cause limp mode. Unless that cat was totally clogged as well or something?

PLEASE. No codes are coming up other than the downstream O2 P1273 but I know thats because of the crack in the exhaust right beside it. Everyone says not to buy aftermarket Cats either because then it wont pass emissions. I'm in Toronto, Canada.

Could this be caused by a vaccuum leak maybe by the valve cover or intake gasket idk? Metal expands when hot yes so maybe its making a tiny crack soon as engine is hot causing vaccum leak somewhere? This could happen with old hoses too I'm assuming?

I am posting a reply to this years later in case somebody else has this insane issue that I did.

The culprit after changing literally everything turned out to be a defect in the design for the negative battery cable. It was too short. The tension was too great. Over time the corrosion ends up with a frayed end where it connects to the chassis poorly. There's your problem.

That problem costed me around $10000 in repairs all in at 6 different shops throwing parts/fees/car rentals/time off work at the problem on a car I don't even have anymore. It was a $23.00 fix in the end of it all. $10k on a $23.00 fix. I wish I was joking. Straight up hell of a summer too.

My advice? Since mechanics clearly will just throw parts at your car to take your money... start with battery cables and a full inspection of the area first if you ever experience literally anything wonky. Since our cars are all controlled electronically now even more than my 2005 Maxima was. The sheer fact that none of them checked the battery cables and it took me casually talking to a random senior mechanic at one of the Nissan stealerships to get that knowledge was shocking. He remembered the defect coming up in those years of cars. Thankfully. Live and learn.

Thanks for posting back. That's a lesson that people -- especially technicians -- must be aware of. It's exactly why I wrote this post:
keep-your-engine-on-the-ground-not-just ... 28130.html

Had any one of those dealer techs taken 10 seconds to voltage-drop your grounds, they would have found a normal drop to the block but a big drop to the chassis, immediately implicating the "middle" connection on the main ground cable. The design defect isn't actually the cable length, it's the fact that on a Max or Altima, it's directly underneath the battery tray and invisible from the top of the engine box. Battery fumes can corrode it endlessly with no one the wiser. The sad aspect is that it literally takes 10 seconds with a $10 voltmeter to do a definitive diagnosis and get it right. For anyone else in this situation, if you DIY in the slightest, pull that meter out of your box periodically and do it yourself. Your car may one day blow you a big kiss for it.

Indeed! Hard lesson for me! The problems I'm facing on my new 2017 Altima with door locks going crazy even after a BCM and Keyfob change, if not solved by a new actuator on Monday, I am going to tell them to double check the cables because they had changed the battery and then all this started. I know they don't like customers telling them what to do, but frankly after the nightmare I went through with my last car hopefully anything can help. Maybe they caused an issue while changing the battery out, unlikely, but who knows.