AC Refill DIY?
AC Refill DIY?
I would like to know if any of you guys had the ac refill on a first gen or second gen Q45 and did u have it done at a shop or you just diy? If you diy please let me know how u did it.THANKS IN ADVANCE
Why do you need to recharge it? Was there a leak?
Its an R12 system, so its $60/lb and you'll need at least three lbs (I think). I paid the dealer to do a flush, leak check, and recharge and replaced the receiver/drier at the same time. $500 with tax.
I do not recommend buying the R134 and doing it yourself... you'll have to overhaul the ENTIRE system with newer AC components to support that change. The cooling will not be the same, and with the auto HVAC, sensors will not work correctly.
Thats the general version of it, at least.
-Jesda
Its an R12 system, so its $60/lb and you'll need at least three lbs (I think). I paid the dealer to do a flush, leak check, and recharge and replaced the receiver/drier at the same time. $500 with tax.
I do not recommend buying the R134 and doing it yourself... you'll have to overhaul the ENTIRE system with newer AC components to support that change. The cooling will not be the same, and with the auto HVAC, sensors will not work correctly.
Thats the general version of it, at least.
-Jesda
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HeavyDuty
- Posts: 1281
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- Car: 1995 Infiniti Q45
95 Nissan 240SX S14
96 Nissan D21
06 Nissan 350Z Z33
If it's a 2nd gen, I bet it's already R134, my 97 Pathfinder was.
I thought I read here that some (at least) 1st gens had it too.
Not something you want to fool around with unless you have gauges & a good understanding of what you're doing. You could cause more harm than good. Too low, won't cool & the compressor won't come on. Too hioh & the same result or worse.
I thought I read here that some (at least) 1st gens had it too.
Not something you want to fool around with unless you have gauges & a good understanding of what you're doing. You could cause more harm than good. Too low, won't cool & the compressor won't come on. Too hioh & the same result or worse.
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Q45tech
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- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
More Q are damaged by incompetent shops and owners, than by natural wear.
Lack of periodic* vacuum down/refill, dryer and compressor oil replacements...........take the life right out of the system.
* at least every 3-4 years.........shops don't necessarily agree but they make money on replacing things not on some labor intensive $200 relatively unprofitable maintenance.
All the profit in a business is in the replacement parts......labor just keeps the door open.
Lack of periodic* vacuum down/refill, dryer and compressor oil replacements...........take the life right out of the system.
* at least every 3-4 years.........shops don't necessarily agree but they make money on replacing things not on some labor intensive $200 relatively unprofitable maintenance.
All the profit in a business is in the replacement parts......labor just keeps the door open.
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Q45tech
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- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
Some guy? [you didn't check his credentials]........You would be surprised that 70% of the AC shops are hacks, not cause they want to be but just to compete with the really bad ones, who seem to offer low cost repairs.
"PAG or POE is a touchy debate. Manufacturers use PAG in new systems because PAG is technically a better lubricant than POE oils. The two major problems with PAG is are hydroscopity (it absorbs alot of moisture) and it cannot tolerate chlorine. Chlorine is not a problem in new squeaky clean systems but it is a problem in retrofitted system. Too much chlorine can break down a pag oil. POE oils are not as hydroscopic as PAG's but in contrast they do not lubricate as well. At least that was the thinking years ago when the whole retrofit thing started. Modern day oils are far better then they were years ago and both PAG's and POE's are more tolerant.
In your situation the person who sold you the compressor is going by what the manufacturer recommends to warrenty the compressor and/or assuming it is going into a genuine 134a system. The warrenty on the compressor will not be voided by using a POE oil. Most warrenties would be voided if you used a blend refrigerant.
The viscocity between the two oils is different PAG 46 is well 46 and POE's are around 100 to 150. The viscocity of the oil is not a factor because the properties of the two oils are different but they both are capable of lubricating the compressor.
Decision time, ask 10 different people and you will get different answers, this is my logic. PAG oils are best used in new 96' or later systems that came from the factory with PAG oils. POE oils are best used in r12 system that were retrofitted to 134a. Good quality POE oils like the BVA100 are just as capable as PAG oils and do not absorb as much moisture. Moisture is critical and as a DIY'r you need access to a good mechanical vacuum pump to remove it. Using a venturi pump or having an AC shop evac the system for 30 minutes will leave some behind so the POE can tolerate these residuals better than PAG's.
This is what I would do, but remember this is my opinion. You said the compressor was not installed, that is good. Drain the compressor on a bench by turning it upside down and turning the hub and draining the oil into a measuring cup. You will not get it all out. Then pour some ester oil into the compressor and again turn the hub to remove it. If you have the time let it sit and let gravity remove the rest. Then reassemble the system and distribute the oil, 2oz in the condenser, 2oz in the evaporator, and the remainder in the compressor. Use a good quality POE like the BVA100 sold on ackits.com.
Try to keep the time the oil is exposed to air at a minimum, remember it absorbs moisture like a sponge. Having a little extra oil in the system is OK but I would not exceed 2oz over the recommended oil level."
http://www.aircondition.com/wwwboard/ht ... com/forum/
"PAG or POE is a touchy debate. Manufacturers use PAG in new systems because PAG is technically a better lubricant than POE oils. The two major problems with PAG is are hydroscopity (it absorbs alot of moisture) and it cannot tolerate chlorine. Chlorine is not a problem in new squeaky clean systems but it is a problem in retrofitted system. Too much chlorine can break down a pag oil. POE oils are not as hydroscopic as PAG's but in contrast they do not lubricate as well. At least that was the thinking years ago when the whole retrofit thing started. Modern day oils are far better then they were years ago and both PAG's and POE's are more tolerant.
In your situation the person who sold you the compressor is going by what the manufacturer recommends to warrenty the compressor and/or assuming it is going into a genuine 134a system. The warrenty on the compressor will not be voided by using a POE oil. Most warrenties would be voided if you used a blend refrigerant.
The viscocity between the two oils is different PAG 46 is well 46 and POE's are around 100 to 150. The viscocity of the oil is not a factor because the properties of the two oils are different but they both are capable of lubricating the compressor.
Decision time, ask 10 different people and you will get different answers, this is my logic. PAG oils are best used in new 96' or later systems that came from the factory with PAG oils. POE oils are best used in r12 system that were retrofitted to 134a. Good quality POE oils like the BVA100 are just as capable as PAG oils and do not absorb as much moisture. Moisture is critical and as a DIY'r you need access to a good mechanical vacuum pump to remove it. Using a venturi pump or having an AC shop evac the system for 30 minutes will leave some behind so the POE can tolerate these residuals better than PAG's.
This is what I would do, but remember this is my opinion. You said the compressor was not installed, that is good. Drain the compressor on a bench by turning it upside down and turning the hub and draining the oil into a measuring cup. You will not get it all out. Then pour some ester oil into the compressor and again turn the hub to remove it. If you have the time let it sit and let gravity remove the rest. Then reassemble the system and distribute the oil, 2oz in the condenser, 2oz in the evaporator, and the remainder in the compressor. Use a good quality POE like the BVA100 sold on ackits.com.
Try to keep the time the oil is exposed to air at a minimum, remember it absorbs moisture like a sponge. Having a little extra oil in the system is OK but I would not exceed 2oz over the recommended oil level."
http://www.aircondition.com/wwwboard/ht ... com/forum/
Q45Tech Question!
So if I have access to the proper equipment and an experienced individual, I need to simply vacuum down the system and recharge with new 134 and oil? How much of the oil would I recover out of the total in the system?
93 J30 85K miles and blows dang cold air.
Thanks, Matt
93 J30 85K miles and blows dang cold air.
Thanks, Matt
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Q45tech
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- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
About 2 ounces per vacuum proceedure depending on TORR of pump. Which means a lot of vacuuming and recharging adding replacement oil to get the bulk changed out.............as there could be 7-8 ounces +. You keep doing it till the oil looks brand new [clear greenish with dye] not black like most.
If ended up doing the proceedure about 7 times over 6 months to get mine clear as new.
Probably faster but not easier to disassemble and flush everything.
Follow the directions in FSM EXACTLY.
The recovery system must be cleaned and constantly drain of used oil.
If ended up doing the proceedure about 7 times over 6 months to get mine clear as new.
Probably faster but not easier to disassemble and flush everything.
Follow the directions in FSM EXACTLY.
The recovery system must be cleaned and constantly drain of used oil.
Fascinating stuff about the oils!
But I got my compressor used from a junked 91 for $70something and paid the guy (friend of friend of friend of etc) a little cash to get it going. He happened to already have an extra can of R12. I was pleased with the results vs. what I paid. I expect a year or two of service from the equipment.
-Jesda
But I got my compressor used from a junked 91 for $70something and paid the guy (friend of friend of friend of etc) a little cash to get it going. He happened to already have an extra can of R12. I was pleased with the results vs. what I paid. I expect a year or two of service from the equipment.
-Jesda
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natsoundup
- Posts: 669
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I am not extremely mechanically inclined.....however this past summer I was able to replace my compressor and drier on the 90
The only tough part was getting the compressor out...it's tight and you need the right tools... I re-did those elements plus a recharge for about 500 dollars...
I was pleased I got 13 years from the compressor. Car has always been in the south...so A/c use is 10 months a year.
the cheapest estimate I received was about 1100 dollars....
The only tough part was getting the compressor out...it's tight and you need the right tools... I re-did those elements plus a recharge for about 500 dollars...
I was pleased I got 13 years from the compressor. Car has always been in the south...so A/c use is 10 months a year.
the cheapest estimate I received was about 1100 dollars....