I attempted this but I’m not sure which pin is #9, I tried using a paper clip and connecting pin #9 and pin #4 (ground) and I couldn’t get the light to flash for diagnostics. Do you have a picture of what pin is actually number 9 and which one is 4?VStar650CL wrote: ↑Wed Jun 22, 2022 2:41 pmI can't tell what your scanner is seeing, probably the upload codes for Consult2 but Nissan never specified those by numbers. There were no "C" codes in '01, the C2 gave you a direct list like "RR Sensor Open", etc. You might be better off reading the blinky codes from the ABS lamp, there's a chart for those. There's a check pin in the gray Consult connector, see page BR-41 here:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... 0%2Fbr.pdf
Grounding the check pin puts the ABS in diag mode and you can read the flashes, and also clear codes. See BR-42 for how to read the flashes and BR-54 for the malfunction chart.
I have the plug grounded like this, I turn the key to the run position and wait 3 seconds and the ABS light doesn’t flash. Am I grounding this wrong?VStar650CL wrote: ↑Wed Jun 22, 2022 4:06 pmThe ABS check wire should be Yellow on pin 9 of the OBD port for both '01 versions. There should be a Red/Yellow on pin 1 directly across from it to get you oriented, that's the ECM check wire.
Here's a cool codes clearing hack I learned many years ago after I first bought my '02 Pathfinder and had to clear a DTC after I replaced an O2 sensor. I am not sure it works with the ABS warning light or not but it's worth giving it a try. I was amazed this was actually a thing. Hint: Timing is important when counting the seconds for this hacking procedure so be very patient and accurate with these steps.skittlenips wrote: ↑Wed Jun 22, 2022 12:26 pmHey everyone, I was getting a code from my ABS about the right wheel speed sensor being out. I replaced the sensor and the light is still illuminated but after scanning the code is no longer there. My scanner cannot erase the codes. How do you clear these? Attached are the codes before and after sensor replacement.
I’m not gonna lie - I’m pretty mechanically inclined (swapped engines etc) I even did the NAV AC conversion on this truck with no issue, and I cannot get this to enter diagnostics even after driving.VStar650CL wrote: ↑Wed Jun 22, 2022 5:59 pmPS - That applies to clearing a lot of ABS codes as well, even on later models. Lots of "C" DTC's require driving the car far enough for the DTC to go "past" before they will clear.
By gray consult2 connector do You mean the OBD2 port? Or is there another connector I’m supposed to be doing this to?VStar650CL wrote: ↑Wed Jun 22, 2022 2:41 pmI can't tell what your scanner is seeing, probably the upload codes for Consult2 but Nissan never specified those by numbers. There were no "C" codes in '01, the C2 gave you a direct list like "RR Sensor Open", etc. You might be better off reading the blinky codes from the ABS lamp, there's a chart for those. There's a check pin in the gray Consult connector, see page BR-41 here:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... 0%2Fbr.pdf
Grounding the check pin puts the ABS in diag mode and you can read the flashes, and also clear codes. See BR-42 for how to read the flashes and BR-54 for the malfunction chart.
Took it to a local shop and my ABS code still wouldn’t clear with their fancy snap-on scan tool, maybe I just have a bad ABS module. I’m gonna grab one from the junkyard and replace it today.VStar650CL wrote: ↑Thu Jun 23, 2022 5:07 amI checked, your '01 doesn't have the gray connector. Around '00~'01 is when Nissan stopped putting them in. Your ride has the check pins on the OBD2 port. Just about all ABS codes will self-clear after some driving, but that can take awhile. The ABS has to pass a number of consecutive SRT's (self-readiness tests) before a "past" error will self-erase. How many successful SRT's it takes for any particular DTC to clear is variable.
I will check behind the liner hopefully it is there. Thank you again!VStar650CL wrote: ↑Mon Aug 07, 2023 4:58 amUsually they come out into the back side of the wheel well, but on some models they bury it under the wheel well liner. If you peel back the rear half of the liner, that's the most likely spot.