About to take the dive into the audio

[TDot]

Please feedback.

Must: sub be free air (I plan on putting it in the trunk pass through, I DO NOT want a box in the trunk). Prefer: Amp class be A/B.

So this is my planned setup:
1/ Infiniti Kappa 62.9i Speakers (all doors)
2/ Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.3 Processor (go great with the computer mod)
3/ Boston Acoustic G310-4 Sub
4/ The amp is where it gets a little complicated for me. From reading up on specs I want to go with a class A/B and stay away from D for the poor audio quality. Am I giving that too much credit? Also, I prefer a high SNR. I dont know how much it matters in a car, but when I used to build studios, I made sure nothing was below 110 SNR) Which of these should I go with, or if you have a suggestion?
a/ MB Quart ONX4.80/500 (The specs seem perfect, but I've never heard of this manufacturer before and the price to specs seems too good to be true)
b/ Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D (Great SNR 105 FR/95 Sub, but class D)
c/ JBL GTO-5EZ (Low SNR 85)
d/ Polk Audio PA D5000.5 (Great SNR 105, but class D)
e/ Alpine MRX-V70 (Low SNR 85, and class D, but fits the bill)

Any and all suggestions. Thanks.

[TDot]

So I'm being told that one amp 5 ch route is a bad way to go, but no real explanation. Can anyone who agrees with that please explain. Note, I'm not trying to shake down the block.

[PlatinumM35]

It sounds like a decent setup to me. As far as the amp in my opinion its better to have that complete separation of bass, miss, and highs. I would do two amps. A/B for highs and D class for the sub. Bass requires good clean power and the d class does that while drawing less current. Just roll with a reputable brand and I think it'll work out great.

[moedawg140]

Please feedback.

Must: sub be free air (I plan on putting it in the trunk pass through, I DO NOT want a box in the trunk). Prefer: Amp class be A/B.

So this is my planned setup:
1/ Infiniti Kappa 62.9i Speakers (all doors)
2/ Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.3 Processor (go great with the computer mod)
3/ Boston Acoustic G310-4 Sub
4/ The amp is where it gets a little complicated for me. From reading up on specs I want to go with a class A/B and stay away from D for the poor audio quality. Am I giving that too much credit? Also, I prefer a high SNR. I dont know how much it matters in a car, but when I used to build studios, I made sure nothing was below 110 SNR) Which of these should I go with, or if you have a suggestion?
a/ MB Quart ONX4.80/500 (The specs seem perfect, but I've never heard of this manufacturer before and the price to specs seems too good to be true)
b/ Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D (Great SNR 105 FR/95 Sub, but class D)
c/ JBL GTO-5EZ (Low SNR 85)
d/ Polk Audio PA D5000.5 (Great SNR 105, but class D)
e/ Alpine MRX-V70 (Low SNR 85, and class D, but fits the bill)

Any and all suggestions. Thanks.

Here's my suggestions of what worked for me. Note, this is with the Advanced Tech setup (14 speaker w/Bose amp). I'm not sure what audio package you have (6, 8 or 14 speaker), but the application is the same.

1. Door Speakers - I would suggest upgrading to a better speaker system than the Infinity's. My rear Infinity Kappa's are not very good as they don't output very much sound at all. You can get some JL's, or in my case, I got the Focal 165 KRX2 for the fronts (came with tweeters as well), which sound like a symphony hall all around me.

2. Processor - I didn't have to use any type of computer signal processing. The Bose amp already processes the signal, but if you want to be able to tweak the signal to your complete liking, go for installing a signal processor. I'm okay with a flat sound.

3. Sub - As for your requested "Must", it seems like if you purchase that Boston Acoustic G310-4 sub, you won't be able to achieve your free air setup that doesn't have a box. I've seen open air sub setups, but that is with a much bigger custom fiberglass-type enclosure. I have tried an 'open air' setup of installing slim open air subs in the trunk sub enclosure, and that did not work out well at all, to say the least. I purchased the JL CVS110RG-W6v2, which is a really small sealed enclosure, but I wound up overheating the voice coils after about a year of use. Basically, if you want good bass that will last, you'll need a good sub, like an Alpine Type-R or up - my Alpine Type-X 10' is super tough, has great harmonics and has a 3000W max limit, so I can push it harder/run it longer than any other sub I've used. Having a friend (or yourself if you are handy) build you a custom enclosure based on the specs of your sub and trunk will yield very good results.

4. Amp/Signal to Noise Ratio (SNR) - You can get any amp you want (A/B, D, whatever), but...a class A amp runs the hottest and are usually pretty bulky. Class AB's run cooler. Class D amplifiers produce higher distortion than AB designs due to the high-speed switching on and off of the transistors, but this distortion occurs at high frequencies that are typically removed by a low-pass filter. I use those filters to produce the best sound for my ears after physically setting up the sub. Due to its design, they run the coolest as well. Class D is great because most amp bodies are slimmer than other classes, and the one I have doesn't have any fans (it is cooled through the 1 1/2 inch long heatsinks attached to the amp). I purchased a class D JL HD 900/5, thinking I could use all 5 channels, but learned that the Bose amp/Infiniti system's voice recognition is tied with the channels, and did not want to risk losing those features just to put the other channels to the JL amp, so I just used the subwoofer channel, and connected that. If I did it again, I would have definitely purchased the JL HD 1200/1 monoblock amp instead of the JL HD 900/5. If you want very low signal to noise ratio (SNR), install a flared port tube (makes the sub box ported). The flared port tube makes my sub sound even better, and is devoid of any SNR issues.

I hope this was of some help to you, good luck, and let us know how it goes.

[TDot]

For the set up do I go from the bose amp -> processor -> new amp?
Whcih connector out the bose? ...08m35

This is the in/out of the processor


Or is it control unit -> processor -> new amp?
Do I actually need the bose amp? I want to keep all voice control stuff, but I dont really want the bose in the mix. If I have to keep the bose is there a line out that Im not seeing instead of the processed/filtered lines to the speakers?

[TDot]

Thanks both of you. It turns out I'm changing my amp, and thus the speaker set up as you suggest moedawg140...mainly because I want to go 4ohm all around. Its a 8 speaker set up. The new amp is going to be Alpine PDX-V9. Your Focal is way too expensive for my needs, but I do happen to be looking at a couple Focals if you had the chance to hear them to provide feedback. The new speakers that I'm selecting from are:
1/ Focal Polyglass 165 CVX
2/ Focal Access 165 CA1
3/ Polk Audio DB651
4/ Pioneer TS-D1602R
5/ JL Audio C2-650X Evolution
6/ JBL GTO629
(what are the specs on the current speakers to make sure any of these will fit properly)
The only thing that has me concerned about the Focals is the "harsh" high end everyone seems to be complaining about, but in the same breath they say its great and clear.
Any input on the speaker choice, or even a combo with the back and front.
Also if anyone can answer the post above please.

I think I'll be ok with the open sub. I only really want to get a few more dbs out the sub and it be clean. And if the bose amp can last the way I push it, I think I should be good with a BA sub.

[moedawg140]

Thanks both of you. It turns out I'm changing my amp, and thus the speaker set up as you suggest moedawg140...mainly because I want to go 4ohm all around. Its a 8 speaker set up. The new amp is going to be Alpine PDX-V9. Your Focal is way too expensive for my needs, but I do happen to be looking at a couple Focals if you had the chance to hear them to provide feedback. The new speakers that I'm selecting from are:
1/ Focal Polyglass 165 CVX
2/ Focal Access 165 CA1
3/ Polk Audio DB651
4/ Pioneer TS-D1602R
5/ JL Audio C2-650X Evolution
6/ JBL GTO629
(what are the specs on the current speakers to make sure any of these will fit properly)
The only thing that has me concerned about the Focals is the "harsh" high end everyone seems to be complaining about, but in the same breath they say its great and clear.
Any input on the speaker choice, or even a combo with the back and front.
Also if anyone can answer the post above please.

I think I'll be ok with the open sub. I only really want to get a few more dbs out the sub and it be clean. And if the bose amp can last the way I push it, I think I should be good with a BA sub.

I did a quick lookup on the speakers you posted, and if I had to pick one of those 6, I would pick the Focal Access 165 CA1 (6.5 in speakers that will fit properly). I haven't heard any of the above speakers, but I picked that one because it also includes a separate crossover that you can set different levels to your liking and includes dome tweeters.

The "harsh" sound from the lower-end Focals could be because they set the crossover level too high - maybe the speakers they had didn't even have a crossover - or they mixed other speakers in their car, creating different harmonics that went awry. Also, the materials used in the lower-end Focals (and other brands) could be emphasizing bright treble and not really sound quality. It could be anything really. In this case, regarding car audio speakers, I believe that you get what you pay for. I never had the chance to really listen to too many speakers, so to have the best chance to be happy and have the best quality sound in the car, and not have to worry about any perceived or real harshness, purchased a technically sound product, and hoped for the best! Good luck with your system.

[TDot]

Did you do the install yourself? I just realized I am going to have that external crossover to the tweeter and I'll prob need to place it in the trunk and run the wires. How hard is it running the wires up and into the door? How did you do it? (tools, cost hanger, etc.) I think im going one step up on the focals, I don't really like this bass response.

[moedawg140]

My friend, who is the best installer I know, did the system installation. I do know that my crossover is in the door - it fits in there. I'm sure others who have done the install themselves could tell you specifically how they installed them. Check out the other threads for good tips on how to install the speakers, or better yet, get it done professionally. I'm not sure what you mean by going one step on the Focals because you don't like the bass response. Most front speakers aren't supposed to have very much, if any, bass - they emit mid and high frequencies. That's the subwoofer job to emit the low and low/mid frequencies, and make that car thump.

[TDot]

I was looking at a pic and the inside of the door seemed to be sealed up with a hard plastic, but I was talking to someone today and he said there is a pocket in there that the crossovers can fit, so I hould be good from here as far as the install goes, I'll see this weekend. The site I was looking at had the wrong low end on the speakers listed. They had it at 200hz...although probably that will be true mids, I want them to be down around 70-80hz, and let my subs pick up from there...just my preference.

[TDot]

Did you leave the front center speaker operational off the bose amp or disco it? Also do you know where your friend got the spacer for the speaker...or anyone else? I want to make sure I get a spacer with the right hight and screw placements.

PS, I took off the door and there is plenty of space for the crossover. Getting to the tweeter was interesting, you have to take off the door liner, not try to remove the cover.

[moedawg140]

Did you leave the front center speaker operational off the bose amp or disco it? Also do you know where your friend got the spacer for the speaker...or anyone else? I want to make sure I get a spacer with the right hight and screw placements.

PS, I took off the door and there is plenty of space for the crossover. Getting to the tweeter was interesting, you have to take off the door liner, not try to remove the cover.

I left the front center speaker operational from the Bose amp, and I enabled it in the audio settings as well. I guess I was the lucky guy out, the speakers I bought came with a kit that made fabricating a spacer unnecessary, but you can make one based on the dimensions you'll need.

[TDot]

Yeah, I'm getting some mdf to make the spacer. I found someone who makes it specific to this car for $50, but figured I could make it just as easy for $15.

Which harness is going to the speakers? You have the one next to the quarter panel, then the one in the middle, then the one towards the middle.