About to spend big $$$...Need suspension help

[NightRiderQ45]

It's been slow here lately on NICO...so I have a new issue to bring up to the group. I was going to wait to rehab my whole front suspension this summer but I think that I'm about to do it sooner that expected. Yesterday as I was leaving the gym, I so happened to have my window down while driving away and I heard serious squeaking from the front when I went over a bump and when I turned. To describe the sound, it kind of reminds me of a rusty spring that you compress or sitting on a old bed box spring. I don't know how long it has been making this noise since it's cold so obviously I ride with the windows up. I got home and cut the wheels left and right and saw something scary. Here are the pics (sorry for quality, took with flashlight and Black Berry camera...)

What is this?? Steering rack or boot? That metal "washer" was loose. This is the front right wheel

Another pic

Next weekend, I plan to taking it to the stealership to have them tell me everything that needs to be replaced and they take it somewhere else to get fixed.Items that I planned on replacing this summer:1) Tension Rod Bushings2) Both lower control arms/balljoints3) Shocks on front (isn't there a P Jack thread that details everything you need to purchase to replace front shocks????)

All replies welcomed!

[Q45tech]

Just a simple part of the $2,500-$3,000 [$1350-$1700 in parts] you should be spending each and every year to maintain after they get older than 10 years.

Everything gets prorated according to historical life [shocks-boots say $100 per year for parts vs transmision < $300 per year].

I've replaced shocks and boots 4 times, etc, etc. When you know the life cycle easy to prescedule and budget for everything.

[NightRiderQ45]

I understand that...and I'm fortunate to have the funds to spend that now, but I'm looking for the answer to my question above or at least what you think is making that noise. The boot above that is busted, is that the steering rack boot? Is it dangerous to drive it in that condition? After reading about stering rack issues, I don't think that is my problem because my steering is still flush/smooth where as I've read that steering rack problems cause your turn to be stiff (especially when cold outside). So from the pics above, it's obvious that I need a steering rack boot kit ($15)

[qship96]

Yes, those are torn steering rack boots- not dangerous to drive, but they are there to keep dirt/grit from getting into the rack and destroying it. I would get repaired as soon as you can get the parts and an alignment done as part of the job. The trick to saving money is to determine what other, if any, front end parts need replacing and get them all done at the same time to save on labor and additional alignments after each part is replaced.

The noise you are hearing could be anything, but most likely not caused by the torn boots- have a tech examine entire front end to pinpoint it- most likely worn bushing/loose part somewhere. By the looks of that boot, it appears you are not paying a pro to lift the car for every 90 day oil changes and a complete under-car look over.

[BCC93QT]

Well, with 216k on your Q might as well give the whole front end a nice re bushing. Get all new rubber bits and ends down there. Given the fact its at 216 unless you've done it recently. I've been trying to do so before every 20-25k miles at MOST. And like ship said... if your not doing your own oil, spend the extra 5 or 10 dollars to bring it to a "professional" because if he cared about his business, he would let you know anything wrong he notices so he can earn some extra $$$$ off ya. I would prolly stay away from the dealerships and go toward a local import specialist that you possibley could possibley trust

[NightRiderQ45]

Ship and BCC, thanks for your replies. It actually has 221k on the motor and transmission. I just updated that info. I must admit that I change my oil every 5k and I'm only under there as long as I have to be. I will stay from the stealership and just go to my friend who does suspension work. He will tell me exactly what I really need. I know for sure I need the items that I listed above. After my oil change next week, I will start letting someone change my oil like every 10k so I can have the underbody inspected. I'm about to look for the listed parts above right now to get ready to purchase. I think that a shop told me awhile back that I might need tie rod ends too. Guess I'll grab that too.

[maxnix]

Well, with 216k on your Q might as well give the whole front end a nice re bushing.

This is what Q45tech is essentially saying. Rebuild everything including bent metal parts. All rubber is dead. Get spring seats and bearings on the front. Inserts on the front should be sufficient, unless you have to replace the whole tower and hub assembly. If not, bearings are not cheap, but might as well replace them now. How are rotors? Good time to upgrade with new OEM pads, shim kits on hand which you will probably need.

Pretty much same thing on the rear. Besides replacing all rubber, check for leaking or even cracked subframe bushings.

[NightRiderQ45]

This is what Q45tech is essentially saying. Rebuild everything including bent metal parts. All rubber is dead. Get spring seats and bearings on the front. Inserts on the front should be sufficient, unless you have to replace the whole tower and hub assembly. If not, bearings are not cheap, but might as well replace them now. How are rotors? Good time to upgrade with new OEM pads, shim kits on hand which you will probably need.

Pretty much same thing on the rear. Besides replacing all rubber, check for leaking or even cracked subframe bushings.

I'm lookin to purchase two outer tie rod ends, two tension rod bushings (#14), two lower control arms (#12) for the ball joints, and two struts (#4) and srut bumpers (#7). As far as struts, will just number 4 be sufficient? I don't think I need a new coil spring and I replaced the strut mounts in 08 and 09. Anything else??

[maxnix]

If the strut bodies and hub are OK, you only need the inserts. Saves about $60 per side.

[NightRiderQ45]

I hate sounding dumb, but what are the strut bodies and hub? I didn't see those terms anywhere on any of the parts that was listed in that last pic. When you said that all I would need are inserts, you are speaking about the #4 item right?

[maxnix]

The front strut assembly is #4 in the illustration.

The inserts are the top rod, pistons and oil which fit inside and provide the damping. Might want to consider front bearings at your mileage also, but they are high quality and not inexpensive.

[Marshall206]

is this a better way to go then just replace the struts all together, 273$ per side is what I figured cause I need fronts too, but if the hub and tower are in tact, how cheap is it to just get the inner parts, rubber, oil, etc.

info appreciated, hate to jump in on a post, but i was going to have to post the same thing in not too long anyways

[NightRiderQ45]

No problem man. #4 is $212 from IoS. I think that's just the insert that Brian is speaking of. So far, I've purchased two outer tie rods, and two rack & pinion boots. I'm going to purchase my tension rod bushings and strut bumber bellow/boots from IoS tomorrow. I'll throw in a cheap air filter while I'm at it. I've replaced both sway bar links but I didn't replace the bushings. I will buy that also.

[maxnix]

#4 is the whole strut. The insert is not shown on the parts diagram.

[NightRiderQ45]

ahhh, thanks for clearing that up! So, once I call IoS, I will just ask for the insert.

[maxnix]

Dan, Fred or Joe will know.

[Romeo5k]

how often should u have to replace or service the struts if u replace them with Tockico!

[NightRiderQ45]

I just purchased both lower control arms w/balljoints and both tension rod bushings for $460 with shipping using the "TAKE5" discount. Sheesh....but at least I know these LCA's will last for another 100k easily. The inserts were $175 but I didn't purchase those yet.

[maxnix]

how often should u have to replace or service the struts if u replace them with Tockico!

Standard and t models have shock absorbers, not struts like the front of FGY33.

KYB is the supplier for the FGY33, Tokico for the G50.

[NightRiderQ45]

Thought they didn't make KYB anymore.

[maxnix]

The two makers are OEM and aftermarket suppliers for each series, respectively.

[NightRiderQ45]

I've been searching and I couldn't find KYB struts for the FGY33...i thought they stopped making them.

[maxnix]

KYB makes the OEM. Tehy also make the KYB SR Specials for the aftermarket.

[NightRiderQ45]

***Update*** All of my parts came in yesterday, so I plan on chaining out both outer tie rods ends, both lower control arms, both tension rod bushings, and both rack and pinion boots.

Now, I've always heard people (especially maxnix) state to make sure arrows are facing forward on tension rod bushings before pressing them back in. Well I took a look at both bushing and I see no "arrows" on any of the bushings!!. Both of these bushings have two white dots on both sides of the rubber bushings (one on the smooth side and one on the rough side). So what exactly are you all speaking about when you say face forward. I can't look at the FSM because you all stated that it's a miss print in the manual.

[NightRiderQ45]

Here are pics of the bushings. Now what exactly are you stating that should be facing forward? I took a look at the fsm and they have an actual arrow pointing towards the tension rod bar, where as these bushings don't have arrows? are you all speaking about the notch on the end?

with the rough side and white dot

with the smooth rubber side with white dot
Modified by NightRiderQ45 at 7:13 AM 3/3/2010

[maxnix]

THe G50 bushings all have arrows pressed in the rubber. Maybe they went with the dots instead for the FGY33? Can you see anymarkings on your present set? Might have to call IoS and have them check with the shop for help.

That little nub next to the bolt collar might be a clue.

[NightRiderQ45]

I'm about to give them a call in a second to see if the white dots or the nub stands for the arrows in the direction they need to be pressed it. I haven't taken the old bushings out yet, but I will make sure to tell the mechanic to pay attention to how the old bushings come out and copy that.

***Update***I just called IoS and spoke to their parts guy (Chris) and he doesn't know what the white dots means ! He assumes that they stand for the arrow but that isn't acceptable. Well hopefully Q45tech or someone else can chime in on this matter especially if they replaced bushings on the FGY33. I hate to drive all the way to the dealer here to ask the question...
Modified by NightRiderQ45 at 7:22 AM 3/3/2010

[maxnix]

Have him duplicate the orientation of the nubs, provided the previous ones were installed correctly.

[NightRiderQ45]

I'm quite sure the previous tension rod bushings/arm are from the factory so they should be installed correctly. Following the nub would work too.

[NightRiderQ45]

Got everything replaced on my car yesterday and I can immediately tell the difference in steering response. I replaced both outer tie rods, both rack & pinion boots, and both tension rod bushings (stupid Infiniti "tech" with 10yrs exp. in Hoover, AL stated that it couldn't be pressed in ). The only thing left to do is replace both struts inserts before the price goes up but I'll wait later in the year to do it. Both of my ball joints were shot (they spun around like a joystick) so I was only a matter of time before they broke.

I took my car to this small garage and literally watched the guy do most of the work. They charged me $250 for labor and $55 for alignment so I was very happy to say the least. I don't even want to think about how much the stealership would've tried to charge me. These new parts also fix the "tire leaning in at top" so now I shouldn't have the issues with my 20" tires wearing badly in the inside.