About the 2000 QX4 transmission

[ugharin]

Hi,I was wondering about the 2000 qx4 transmission. The vehicle is in good shape and drives and rides very well. However theres one thing I noticed. When starting up, there is a fair and noticeable jerk when the gear changes from the 1st to 2nd gear. Other gear changes up and down are absolutely fine and there are no jerks at all with only an audible sound and change in rpm indicating the gear changes.

But that 1st to 2nd during acceleration has a jerk. It wont shake me up but I can feel it very well. Its like, when the gear changes from 1st to 2nd, the vehicle waits a sec and lunges forward a little bit. Sometimes if I accelerate exremely slowly (not practical), I dont get that jerk.

1) Is this a problem? Anything that could happen now or looking down the road? Should I get an extended warranty right now (from warranty direct)?

2) Is the transmission normally good and reliable?

3) Does the weak engine take its toll on the transmission?

4) I just got the vehicle @ 123k miles. Dont know the previous history w.r.t transmission fluid chance. Should I go ahead and change the fluid? Or is it not recommended cause of high mileage?

5) If I should change the fluid, could you recommend a specific brand and an additive if applicable? Also, should I go for a complete fluid flush or just a drain and pour?

Thanks for all the help.
Modified by ugharin at 10:57 PM 12/26/2009

[alexf20c]

if the power windows stop working, do you check/replace the fuse?

[fueler]

very good questions. I think changing the transmission fluid is good, no matter what mileage. I changed mine at about 120k. I noticed that it shifted smoother than before when i changed the fluid (unexpected, since i thought it was smooth already) BUT then at 175k miles transmission blew under stupid towing circumstances, i have no doubt in my mind that if i never towed anything it would still be running smoothly today.

I'd change the fluid if i were you. Its probably old, brown and burnt, take out the dipstick and smell it.. I think changing it has potential to help out your 1st to 2nd problem. But no guarantees.

[fueler]

and by the way, mine has always shifted hard for like the first minute after a cold start. But smooths out when warmed up. Is that what you're talking about?

[ugharin]

Hi and thanks for the reply.

I'll first admit that it was a BIG DUH moment for me....I had a manual miata before this for a long time and just didnt think about the transmission dip stick. So I actually bought the vehicle without checking that. I'll check the fuild quality/level today when I get off work.

IM not gonna use it for towing or off roading. So I hope its gonna be okay.

I was worried because when I took it to firestone (to inspect it before buying it), I also asked them for their quotes for basic services and they refused to do the transmission fluid change cause of high mileage and also actually suggested that I leave it alone. I think the reason they gave me was something to the effect of " the fluid is old and gritty and has more friction and has mixed well with the components and a new fluid will wear the components out as it has less friction and is smooth"....or something like that.

I think I will change it.

1) Could you recommend a good/synthetic/specific brand of fluid? Any additive for high mileage?2) How about the differentials (front and rear)? Same fluid?3) Transfer case?

[ugharin]

and by the way, mine has always shifted hard for like the first minute after a cold start. But smooths out when warmed up. Is that what you're talking about?

Mines like I mentioned in my first post ALL THE TIME. Im not sure its cause of the cold as the hard shift is only when shifting from 1st to 2nd and not during engagement at startup and also all the time even after warm up if thats what you mean. Its very good otherwise in other gears and while decelerating.

Howwver,It is indeed, very cold now, Ive had the vehicle for a little less than a month and when I first got it in the beginning, i did not notice this hard shift.

So, perhaps it could be because of the cold?

Is that normal?

I seriously want to change the fluid albeit with fingers ccrossed and then continue the fuild change every 20 miles or so.

Is that a good idea?

[ugharin]

.... I changed mine at about 120k. I noticed that it shifted smoother than before when i changed the fluid (unexpected, since i thought it was smooth already) BUT then at 175k miles....

Could you tell when the fluid was changed before you did so at 120k?Also, did it run good till 175k or did it show signs of wear before it blew up?

I just jucked my transmission fluid. It appeared light brown and very transparent. As in not thick and sludgy.

Should I change the transmission filter and gasket as well? And new bolts? How about the differentials and the transfer case?

Thanks for the help.

[fueler]

Could you tell when the fluid was changed before you did so at 120k?Also, did it run good till 175k or did it show signs of wear before it blew up?

I just jucked my transmission fluid. It appeared light brown and very transparent. As in not thick and sludgy.

Should I change the transmission filter and gasket as well? And new bolts? How about the differentials and the transfer case?

Thanks for the help.

yes you can change the diffs with pennzoil 80w-90 (thats what the factory uses).

you can put ATF in the transfer case - that way if the central seal leaks, you wont have problems with fluid contamination.

Mine was never changed at 120k so i changed it and to my surprise, it actually shifted smoother. Then at 175k when it blew, no signs of wear at all. One week after my towing escapades, I drove around the city all day for work, then at the end of the day BAM no 2nd gear, check engine light....

[attofarad]

There is a TSB for that problem on the 2001, ITB01-051a (and an identical one with a different number for the 2001 Pathfinder). The fix is to either replace the TCU (transmission control unit) with a newer one for the it-always-shifts-hard problem, or to replace both the TCU (even newer rev) and the solenoid pack for the it-happens-at-half-throttle-when-cold problem.

My GF's 2001 has apparently done the slip-when-cold for years, but I don't much drive it and had never noticed it until recently, after she finally described the problem in a way that made sense. I got a -4W002 TCU out of a wrecked 2002 PF for $80 delivered, but am not going to swap it until after next weekend. I hope the TCU will improve the situation, as the solenoids are $300, and much more of a bother to swap.

[ugharin]

Hmm...

Or could it just be that the MAF and the transmission filter need cleaning and replacement respectively?

Or the throttle position sensor connection is poor?

Could you let me know what kind of fluid should I get for the transmission? Is there any high mileage specific transmission fluid?

Because of the high mileage and lack of prior transmission service, should I avoid the flush and go for the drain and pour a few times over the next 6 months or so? I checked the transmission fluid and it was thin and light brown.

thanks again. The info and help in this forum is great.

[attofarad]

If it were me, I would just do a drain and fill, then maybe do it again in 5-10k miles, along with a pan drop and filter change. Or, you could do that in the reverse order and go ahead and see what you find in the pan. I'm thinking that a simple drain/fill (about 5.5 quarts) every 30k-45k miles is more than enough for this vehicle, unless you are towing a lot. My coworker put 270k on his 2001PF, with only two drain/fills, and occasional towing of 2 jet skis, no problem.

When I changed the original fluid in my GF's transfer case, at about 120k miles, it was looking pretty dirty. Did it again at about 135k and it looked fine.

Her transmission had had one drain/fill at maybe 80k miles. I just did two back to back, with only a few miles driven in between, at 142k miles -- old fluid came out a bit dirty, but not disgusting. 2nd drain fluid looked almost like the new going in.

I used the Castrol multi-vehicle Import fluid. You could also use whatever is in the owner's manual, which is probably Nissan Matic-D.
Modified by attofarad at 11:38 AM 12/30/2009

[jsm02cpa]

Ugh, I've got a 2000QX4 with about 125K on it now, and it shifts pretty smoothly 1st to 2nd unless you are getting into the accelerator pedal heavily. I bought it with 105K on it and we didn't change the fluid, they looked like they had been done recently. I will probably change it this summer. I wouldn't worry about a little jump in the shifting when it is cold out, that is more normal, the fluid isn't as fluid when cold, so there is a tendency to shift a little more jerky.

Check you windows when you roll them down, if they go up slow, look at the posts that have been made here to fix that, or at least make it better. It is much worse in the winter.

[ugharin]

Thanks for the reply. You are right. It shifts much better with a little warm up.

I did notice that the drivers side window rolled up rather slowly yesterday. Didn't think twice about it. But now that you mentiioned it, will look it up. Hope its not a big deal.

[t_b0ne3]

very good questions. I think changing the transmission fluid is good, no matter what mileage. I changed mine at about 120k. I noticed that it shifted smoother than before when i changed the fluid (unexpected, since i thought it was smooth already) BUT then at 175k miles transmission blew under stupid towing circumstances, i have no doubt in my mind that if i never towed anything it would still be running smoothly today.

I'd change the fluid if i were you. Its probably old, brown and burnt, take out the dipstick and smell it.. I think changing it has potential to help out your 1st to 2nd problem. But no guarantees.

FuelerI have a 2001 qx4 and it does the hard shift from 1st to 2nd as you've covered here before but mine also does a looong slip from 2nd to 3rd as well. I usually lift the pedal and let it catch up before depressing the pedal again but I have stayed in the throttle and it slips for a period of time and then catches on it's own. My question is is this a typical problem for these transmission's or would it be something as you said here about changing the fluid? It doesn't do any of the above once the ambient temp goes about 55 which covers about 6 months here. The rest of the year it gives me grief!Thanks for any help you can offer with this!

[alexf20c]

19mm wrench from AutoZone: $11.2910qt oil drain pan from AutoZone: $7.991qt Castrol Matic-D ATF from AutoZone: $4.99 x 6narrow spout Super Funnel from AutoZone: $2.99getting everything from AutoZone, doing the work yourself, and fixing the hard/delayed shifting: Priceless

[fueler]

FuelerI have a 2001 qx4 and it does the hard shift from 1st to 2nd as you've covered here before but mine also does a looong slip from 2nd to 3rd as well. I usually lift the pedal and let it catch up before depressing the pedal again but I have stayed in the throttle and it slips for a period of time and then catches on it's own. My question is is this a typical problem for these transmission's or would it be something as you said here about changing the fluid? It doesn't do any of the above once the ambient temp goes about 55 which covers about 6 months here. The rest of the year it gives me grief!Thanks for any help you can offer with this!

im not familiar with the 3.5 engines as much but i remember reading about a somewhat common problem called "shift flare" in those. Just google "QX4 shift flare" and youll get tons of info about a TSB technical service bulletin on those years.

[t_b0ne3]

I googled it and it was listed in september of 2001 for the 2001 qx4 does this mean there was a recall on it? If so and it was not taken in for this issue how can I get it fixed now? Thnx again!

[attofarad]

I googled it and it was listed in september of 2001 for the 2001 qx4 does this mean there was a recall on it? If so and it was not taken in for this issue how can I get it fixed now? Thnx again!

I don't think that there was a recall. My understanding of TSB's is that they are for the mechanics to know how to fix a problem. If the vehicle were under warranty, maybe you could get Infiniti to pay. Otherwise, the owner will be paying.

I'm still trying to find out whether the solenoid replacement will really fix the problem (references from someone who has done it). And if so, can I use a Transtar part for $89, rather than an online dealer OEM part at $292.
Modified by attofarad at 4:29 PM 1/7/2010

[t_b0ne3]

That was what Fueler had talked about in the other thread related to the trans. I don't think it would make any difference what you paid for the updated module as long as it is the same part. $89 sounds almost reasonable for a fix ona factory built problem rather than taking another bath from the same people who made the problem to begin with?!

[attofarad]

That was what Fueler had talked about in the other thread related to the trans. I don't think it would make any difference what you paid for the updated module as long as it is the same part. $89 sounds almost reasonable for a fix ona factory built problem rather than taking another bath from the same people who made the problem to begin with?!

The TCM is the same, no matter where it comes from, if it has the same part number. That part, I have already replaced.

There seem to be a number of manufacturers of the solenoid pack. Since Nissan's original ones were screwed up for 2001, I'm a bit reluctant to put some other manufacturer's solenoid in there rather than the official "fixed" design.

OTOH, it seems that the same solenoid group is used for many Nissan years, both older and newer, so maybe a Transtar solenoid pack will be as good or better?