About changing the oem turbo
About changing the oem turbo
I'll be dropping the oem T25 of my Ca18 for a T25 from an SR very soon. I was wondering for the people who did it, can it be done easily without been a pita with the exhaust mani still bolten on the block? Is there enough room to work in this issue?
Re: About changing the oem turbo (D3stro)
Unless you are a very crafty 6 year old girl or have 6 year old girl hands, The manifold will have to come off.
Re: About changing the oem turbo (Ca_Silvia)
Great, I'll just kidnap one in the street, she will come handy.joking.Thnaks for the info.Ca_Silvia wrote:Unless you are a very crafty 6 year old girl or have 6 year old girl hands, The manifold will have to come off.
And as for the exhaust manifold gasket, 14036-D4200 the part number is. It's is for ca18 NA and ca18 turbo as written in the part number thread?
Re: About changing the oem turbo (D3stro)
I have found that candy works well for this, particularly skittles and the sour starburst jelly beans.D3stro wrote:
Great, I'll just kidnap one in the street, she will come handy.joking.
On a side note, my install went fairly smooth with my T25G . Definitely get the manifold off. The top four, and bottom two (closest to radiator) nuts can all be removed from standing over the engine. The other bottom two are PITA's and I had to remove them with a 14mm wrench from under neath.
Some of the nuts may pull the studs out when you remove them. For those, I put in replacement studs. I bought the stud kit from enjuku for $50, it has 8 studs and 8 thick nuts with built in washers, very big. I only used 2 of the 8 studs for when the nuts pulled out the studs. I had replacements for all the studs but mine were in pretty good condition. Also i'm a big fan of not replacing something that isn't broken if breaking it could cause alot of headaches. Make sure you can get the 2 difficult nuts (bottom row, 2 nearest firewall) on during reinstall before starting to tighten the exhaust manifold. When I had my manifold on, secured by 2 or 3 nuts, I was unable to get these 2 on. I think part of it was enjuku's hardware, but regardless, not a bad move.
The water lines are 19mm banjo bolts. I removed the one that connects to the driver fender side of the turbo. Remove it from turbo, then from block. This will make access to the inner (engine side) water line easy. You only need to remove this one from the turbo, not from the block. Easy here, coolant will come out if you have not drained it. When reinstalling, attach the block side line first and tighten fully, as it is only more difficult when you put the fender-side line back on. I used new crush washers from pep-boys, they were near the oil section and labeled "14mm". Also could be found from dealer or oil change place I imagine. You may be fine re-using the originals, I have been before.
The oil return tube is 2 12mm bolts. I removed it from the turbo, then took the turbo out, then removed it from the pan. It's up to you though, you could do it by removing from pan then removing from the turbo once you remove the turbo from the engine. With my A/C line the turbo/manifold combo is difficult enough to come out, which is my reasoning for my removal order.
I removed the oil line from the block, I'm not even sure if it could be removed from the turbo with it on the car. It is either a 12mm or a 14mm at the block, but I think it is 14mm. A box end wrench would help here.
I would suggest looking at chosen one's thread about custom lines. I kept my water lines, but for ~$35 I got both fittings and the line for my oil inlet line. To me, the oil return is fine. The new oil inlet is awesome, that was one of the worst parts of previous reinstalls was the oil line at the block.
I did need to bend the water lines slightly to fit the SR, but barely. Also it was all done once the turbo/manifold was installed.
As far as your question, I'm 99% sure those are the gaskets. I got them once from autozone for a CA18 (87 pulsar nx se) and they worked. I ordered them again from nissan for this install recently but they didn't come in time.
Other gaskets for turbo (compressor outlet piece, turbo - manifold, turbo - o2 housing) where found from a z32 300zx. All worked well. You can also get replacement studs from that car but beware they are expensive from a dealer. I put 5 studs on the turbine housing for the o2 housing for easy/secure o2 housing install.
Re: About changing the oem turbo (jt15833)
Very good description. follow what he said. Do this slow and think ahead. make sure you do it in a order that wont have you removing the manifold again because you missed something!
The install is time consuming, but it's a real pita when you have to redo things here.
The install is time consuming, but it's a real pita when you have to redo things here.
Re: About changing the oem turbo (progman)
Thanks for the great description JT15833. I shall read your post again when the time will come to do it.
Modified by D3stro at 2:16 PM 4/29/2008
Modified by D3stro at 2:16 PM 4/29/2008
Re: About changing the oem turbo (D3stro)
Being at work and having internet access leads to great posts.
Like this one.
Like this one.
Re: About changing the oem turbo (ser20det)
Ah excellent ca. Merci bien du lien.
Re: (r34 gtr)
i was gonna say...what about the Steering column...r34 gtr wrote:Damn you guys and your RHD cars. You don't have to worry about the steering column being a pain in the arse.
it diod answer a few questions i had too...
Re: (DALAZ_68)
They are exactly the same.
Re: (CakeEater)
but the flange that hooks up to the dp is on a diff axis...same flange...just have to rotate it ...kew then...and coolant lines?
CakeEater wrote:They are exactly the same.
Re: (r34 gtr)
Yeah ! I love my RHD :Pr34 gtr wrote:Damn you guys and your RHD cars. You don't have to worry about the steering column being a pain in the arse.
Re: (DALAZ_68)
You might have to bend/adjust you coolant/oil lines a little.DALAZ_68 wrote:but the flange that hooks up to the dp is on a diff axis...same flange...just have to rotate it ...kew then...and coolant lines?
I just re-clocked the center core to make the lines hook-up great.
Re: (CakeEater)
Some update.
Some bolts are a ***** to unbolt. Bolting back everything together was almost easier. That's not an easy job honestly. As we fought to put back everything together we arrived at putting on downpipe/test pipe/catback. The downpipe is a 3'' XS power, tottally get in the frame rail. I've read this issue while searching on this forum this morning.
I was wondering if the downpipe is cut and rotated a little, does is it clear more easily the frame rail?
We stopped, had trouble with the used Apexi Catback because the muffler hanger were rewelded so could sit more toward the engine, so we have put back the oem exhaust.(was so pissed).Must get this to a shop to make it fit it seems.
Some bolts are a ***** to unbolt. Bolting back everything together was almost easier. That's not an easy job honestly. As we fought to put back everything together we arrived at putting on downpipe/test pipe/catback. The downpipe is a 3'' XS power, tottally get in the frame rail. I've read this issue while searching on this forum this morning.
I was wondering if the downpipe is cut and rotated a little, does is it clear more easily the frame rail?
We stopped, had trouble with the used Apexi Catback because the muffler hanger were rewelded so could sit more toward the engine, so we have put back the oem exhaust.(was so pissed).Must get this to a shop to make it fit it seems.