Abnornal coolant issues, please advise??

[fast240sxinfl]

Hi guys and gals, I have had it to my wits end with this SR20det crap!!!! Regardless of the the color of my valve cover, i own an SR20 swapped 240. And for the life of i cant seem to figure out what the current problem is.... So here it is for of you experts!!!

1. on my #2 cometic head gasket 2. i only run 10lbs on a T283. arp head studs (over torqed by 10lbs) yes i followed factory specs during install, i.e. torq and untorq and then retorq....4. new rad cap and radiator (sr20det from japanand yes its super clean5. altima fans hauling ***, and yes it moves some CFM6. stock timing

The biggest problem is under boost i can smell coolant, so i check and i see coolant that had leak fron the coolant overflow tank after just "hauling some ***" for this is the reason i changed a total of three headgaskets. And yes i had a very reputable machine shop check the head!!! And yes i coated the HG in copper spray and the "head and block" surfaces were super clean and blinging!!! I dont have overheating issues yet, but it pisses me off to see a radiator sorta empty and coolant coming from the overflow tank from just "beating on it" What really boggles my mind is that i have reason to think I see 'brown deposits" kinda like carbon or something in the radiator floating to the top... To make matters more crazyier my friend told me while the engine was idilling he "thought he smelled coolant and or some white exhaust gasses come from the exhaust" -----maybe a bad turbo??? keep in mind my current problem only appears "underboost" and HG was just done a few days ago, and no there is no detonation or pinging." HELL I DONT KNOW, so please guide me??? And yes i have done my homework and the search button didnt really seem to help, seeing how i did find 1 topic close to my problem.

Thanks Guys

[180fan]

the arp's should have been torqued in 20ft-lb increments to 80ft-lbs.

where is the leak coming form do you know? if it's a cometic, check between runners 3 and 4 on the intake side. see if it's got any greens there (do this while it's hot).

Next thing you should try after that is to pressure test the coolant system.

post back with what you find.

[fast240sxinfl]

the final torq was 75 ft lbs plus 180 degree turn on each headstud/nut, the was no reason to perform a coolant pressure check, im not leaking from any where. As stated "under boost" "coolant blows out the coolant overflow tank" near the cap- "stock s-13 plastic nissan" normal driving it doesnt happen, just "under boost", thus no coolant=overheating, etc, etc.....

[fast240sxinfl]

Well i found the problem, it turns out that the ARP part # 202-4303, bolts work great and look great but the problem is that the stud only travel about 1in in block. "threaded part" so thus the stud only grabs so much "meat"inside the block, where as the OEM head bolts grab about 2inchs into the "threaded part of the block", this seems to be a big issue and it turns out that mazworx.com has came up with great solution as well as using the greddy head studs or the JUN version. And no my threads in the block are NOT BAD, its simple applied logic and a some major cash 2 figure this 1 out. And yes I have talked to ARP, and they have seen hardcore evidence in regards to the issue with SR20 head studs kits they produce, its not a bad thing, but an issue that needs to be address....