AAHHH MORE problems

[euroboy]

Hey guys,I have tried pretty much everything under the damn sun.

Symptoms

rought idle, very low, almost dying and in 10 sec it dies...it misfires, running way to richno power at allknock sensor is not incoils are finecar sounds like it's running on 2 or even cylinder

....I changed the battery i made hard piping for the intercoolerca18et MAFand the wiring is fine since it run before and i changed nothing

now i hooked up the timing light just hugged it around coil 1 cable and it only fires when i try and rev it...

It stumbles like crazy when i rev and it's lazy to rev...

please, this is pissing me off way too much, any one got any ideas...

also my ecu pin 23 for the knock sensor i found it to be green with red dots (maybe i am wrong BUT)

Now when i hook that up should i ground that wire or just hard wire to the ecu?ThanksBess

[iliketocrash]

there are actual wires that run through the harness by the fuse box that you can wire your knock sensor into, i'll take a picture tomorrow. my car ran like complete dump when it wasn't hooked up, very similar to yours. As for doing timing, you need to unplug the air idle control thingy (at least i think that's the plug. the one that hangs over the tube that goes from one side of your intake mani to the other side of the valve cover.) then you take a regular spark plug wire that you would use from a car that doesn't have the coil on plug setup, cut the boot off where it would connect to a coil pack/distributor and carefully put that end up your #1 coil pack boot as far as you can without hurting anything and then using a generous amount of electrical tape to secure it in the boot. You then take the spark plug boot on your spark plug wire and stick it on the sparkplug itself, then clam the timing light on that line. If you ahve a pulse type tach as well then i believe you should clamp that on the loopback black wire near the end of the coil pack harness. Before you mess with ignition timing you should really get the whole idle thing sorted. Start with the knock sensor.

[RMiller]

Do you have the stock injectors? The wire from pin 23 was white on my car, maybe its different if you're not in US, I don't know. You just need to hard wire it directly to the knock sensor. You can test your ignitor for continuity by the directions in the manual, you can also check for current on either side of the ignitor while cranking the motor. It's weird that you don't get a good signal for the timing light. Remove coilpack 1 and attach a regular plug wire from the coilpack to the sparkplug and put the timing light around that wire. Try moving the CAS around while idling, then pull the throttle and see what works best. Also try jabbing the throttle fast, then closing it. My car doesn't really idle when cold, but if I jab at the throttle it will rev. Oh yeah, so you changed the MAF, piping, and the battery. Make sure the MAF is good and/or the wires are hooked up for it properly. Good luck.

[euroboy]

MAF is goodand i do not think the knock sensor would do all this because i didn't have one when i first got it running....It was running good until i screwed the maf up...

i will check ecu pin 23 and see what i come up with and my ca18det was a japanese spec!

[WeldingHank]

the knock sensor wire is a thick white wire. 3 pins to the right of the bolt on the top row.

[Notchbackca]

have you tried advancing the timing a touch?

[RMiller]

By not in US I was thinking like a European spec. motor or something, just trying to cover all the bases.

Definitely mess with the timing slightly and see if the idle changes. Make sure you are getting spark and fuel to all cylinders if you suspect it's not running on all cylinders. Also, are you using shielded wire to hook up the maf?

You said it was running well until you screwed the maf up; if you think you screwed it up that's probably the problem.

[float_6969]

How did you screw up the MAFS. Are you sure you didn't fry the ECU when you did it?

[iliketocrash]

i don't use shielded wiring on my mafs. in fact a large section is unshielded and it runs fine. where would i find shielded wire besides the stock ka harness which i threw away? :-(

[euroboy]

well here is an update

first off the knock sensor will never take the car from almost dead to very good.It fine tunes it a little but not much

second my ca18et maf was sending the wrong signalso i used a 3 wire one from a ka24 and just connected 3 of them

thich black yellow to the sameblack with blackwhite with green red i thinkthe last i left it open.

car runs much better but no exhaust i have some turbulence and no low end torque plus the diff vac leaks...it did feel strong today though.

Another problem rose....under hard driving i had oil spitting out of the bov...no a lot now and it very little but the first time was quite a bit...

Is it safe to say my turbo just went to ****s?and if it can be rebuild or another one what kind would you use?

Bess

[T88lexus]

I have a sr20 T25 come out of my ca18det. I never ran on it since i swicth to bigger one. I am not sure on conidtion but it spins very freely and not much shaft play in it.. everything is pretty tight..email me at [email protected]

[boost_boy]

well here is an update

first off the knock sensor will never take the car from almost dead to very good.It fine tunes it a little but not much

second my ca18et maf was sending the wrong signalso i used a 3 wire one from a ka24 and just connected 3 of them

thich black yellow to the sameblack with blackwhite with green red i thinkthe last i left it open.

car runs much better but no exhaust i have some turbulence and no low end torque plus the diff vac leaks...it did feel strong today though.

Another problem rose....under hard driving i had oil spitting out of the bov...no a lot now and it very little but the first time was quite a bit...

Is it safe to say my turbo just went to ****s?and if it can be rebuild or another one what kind would you use?

Bess

Well my friend, it all depends on how much boost you were running or do you have a boost gauge? If your car is just spitting up oil from the BOV suspect the turbocharger and worn rings (pretty popular with this motor). or even worse, cracked ringlands.

Dee

[euroboy]

dee, my compression is 145 accross.I don't suspect that the rings are gone for 2 reasons...One it not shooting any oil from the exhaust side if there is oil going through there is no smell.This only happens during hard driving and i am boosting 8psiturbo is holding pressure fine it's just leaking oil so i really suspect my seals are gone....

[r34 gtr]

compression is a little low, but its all within factory spec. i would just guess the seals are gone. kinda lucky, when my turbo went the turbine wheel ate away the inside of the housing. it sounded soooooo bad!

also, ive got a ca18det maf if you need it. though your car seems to be running pretty well. problem-wise, i was also going to suggest the coolant temp. sensor.

- tim

[euroboy]

well can these seals be rebuild or do i go out and buy another turbo?there is little shaft play on the turbo and it spins freelyi guess sitting for over a year they dried out...maf i used a 3 pin maf and spliced it into the harness....it's working as it revs fine and idles fine now...more bugs but i am happy so far!