I've done it I got the damn Idle Air Valve off that is located behind the Intake Manifold. For those asking why... I took it off to clean it because it can ause severe idling issues.
I will post some pictures later tonight. I'm sure most of you think this is small potatoes and I am a big retard for being so glad.. but hey whatever atleast I could do it.
If anyone is having trouble finding it, or wants to know how in the hell I got it out of that tight spot, I will explain it later when I post some pics. :ylsuper
AAC Valve Removed!
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PapaSmurf2k3
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- Car: 2017 Corvette, 2018 Focus ST, 1993 240sx truck KA Turbo.
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How-To For AACV
http://www12.brinkster.com/bkp240
This is where it is located, its on passenger side underneath the intake manifold. The two hoses I have circled should be removed so that the bolts can be reached easier. The entire unit is held on by 4 bolts, when you get the four bolts off it will practically fall out. /w the hoses off getting the bolts out won't be that hard. I couldn't get the larger hose off till after it came out which made getting the farthest bolt on the bottom out very difficult. I would recommend taking the bolts out in this order.
1.lower bolt farthest from you.2.upper bolt farthest from you.3.lower bolt closest to you.4.upper bolt closest to you.
I recommend this because once the unit is only being held in by one bolt, it will slide around in place making the last bolt harder to get out, and you do NOT want the bottom farthest bolt to be the last one (like me)
Getting the farthest bolts out may require a touchy feely approach. I personally could not see the bolts at all I just had to be patient and feel around /w my ratchet.
you will need a very small 10mm wrench and a very small 10mm ratchet to have any chance of getting this thing out.
Once the bolts are out, pull the unit out a little and disconnect the electrical plugs.
This is where it is located, its on passenger side underneath the intake manifold. The two hoses I have circled should be removed so that the bolts can be reached easier. The entire unit is held on by 4 bolts, when you get the four bolts off it will practically fall out. /w the hoses off getting the bolts out won't be that hard. I couldn't get the larger hose off till after it came out which made getting the farthest bolt on the bottom out very difficult. I would recommend taking the bolts out in this order.
1.lower bolt farthest from you.2.upper bolt farthest from you.3.lower bolt closest to you.4.upper bolt closest to you.
I recommend this because once the unit is only being held in by one bolt, it will slide around in place making the last bolt harder to get out, and you do NOT want the bottom farthest bolt to be the last one (like me)
Getting the farthest bolts out may require a touchy feely approach. I personally could not see the bolts at all I just had to be patient and feel around /w my ratchet.
you will need a very small 10mm wrench and a very small 10mm ratchet to have any chance of getting this thing out.
Once the bolts are out, pull the unit out a little and disconnect the electrical plugs.
Cleaning
After its all clean, putting it back on is relatively easy. Make sure you didn;t lose the gasket, mine was still stuck to the manifold. line the unit up and place all 4 bolts in before you tighten them. I recommend plugging the brown wire back in first, once the unit is screwed in it is very difficult to reach/see the plug.
after both wires are plugged in, hook up both hoses you removed, and your done.
It took me about 4 hours total...that included taking out, cleaning, drinkin a soda and sittign for a few minutes, and putting it back in. The only other car things I've ever done so far was help /w water pump install and replacement of my headlight motor. So you can estimate how long this will take you off of that. I also have real big hands which didn't help
After cleaning and reinstalling I took it for a test drive once the car was up to temp. It ran PERFECTLY. The idle didn't even THINK of dropping down low, it would come to a nice stop around 800 RPM every time, tested it at about 4 stop signs and pressed the clutch in while going 70-80 about 7 times, all with perfect results...then I drove to my friend's house a few hours later and the problem was back...not quite as severe though. Sure hope this helps you out Smurf
after both wires are plugged in, hook up both hoses you removed, and your done.
It took me about 4 hours total...that included taking out, cleaning, drinkin a soda and sittign for a few minutes, and putting it back in. The only other car things I've ever done so far was help /w water pump install and replacement of my headlight motor. So you can estimate how long this will take you off of that. I also have real big hands which didn't help
After cleaning and reinstalling I took it for a test drive once the car was up to temp. It ran PERFECTLY. The idle didn't even THINK of dropping down low, it would come to a nice stop around 800 RPM every time, tested it at about 4 stop signs and pressed the clutch in while going 70-80 about 7 times, all with perfect results...then I drove to my friend's house a few hours later and the problem was back...not quite as severe though. Sure hope this helps you out Smurf
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nissanrcer240
- Posts: 1657
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- Car: 90 Nissan 240SX SR20DET
- Contact:
I don't think so, it sounds like your idle is just high and may beed to be lowers by twisting the screw, our cars are suppose to idle around 750 rpms. It is common for it to dip SLIGHTLY like 675-700 when breaking, yours is always running high. I really don't know anything, so take it with a grain of salt but thats my guess.
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GodDrivesA240sx
- Posts: 536
- Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 4:37 pm
- Car: 1995 Nissan 240SX
- Contact:
Dragon240 wrote:Could this be my problem? When i first start my car it goes straight to about 1500-1700 rpms and sits there. After warming some it will idle around 1100 and when I hit the brake it drops to about 900-1000
It's possible, but like someone said you prob just need a little adjustment to fix it. You could also check the IACV/AAC valve (Idle air control / auxillary air control ) if the plunger is stuck open/close it'll let too much or not enough air in and that could cause some problems.
Bryson Website?
Hello there ...your description really helps , thanks.
Your website where your pics are supposed to be seems to be down, do you have a new site or could you email me the pics.?
Thanks thegary[email protected]
Your website where your pics are supposed to be seems to be down, do you have a new site or could you email me the pics.?
Thanks thegary[email protected]
Re: AAC Valve Removed! (Bryson)
thread may be old, but helps a non mechanic like me. thanks to
Re: (Dragon240)
I have the exact same problem with idle, pretty much the same RPMs too, though mine ALWAYS is at 1500~ RPMS (it's been rather nice weather out so the car hasn't really HAD to warm up yet)Dragon240 wrote:Could this be my problem? When i first start my car it goes straight to about 1500-1700 rpms and sits there. After warming some it will idle around 1100 and when I hit the brake it drops to about 900-1000
Other than that, my engine runs perfectly.
So you guys figure a little adjustment wouldd fix that? Damn, my same problem is I have no clue where the hell the IAV IS, I read about adjusting the idle level, but I dunno where to look in my engine bay lol.
Anyone else able to provide some pics for me? If so I may be able to solve this one myself.
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vancouverbc
- Posts: 3197
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- Car: 1991 240sx