AAC, IACV, Idle stuff....and SAFCII junks

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
User avatar
HybridOne
Posts: 362
Joined: Wed Oct 22, 2003 3:46 pm
Car: swaps
Contact:

Post

yea, so i don't have a constant idle. And i'm working through what it might be. I just replaced my AAC, and it helped some....but i still get idle at 1700 rpms every once in a while. The temp sensor is working fine, and i don't have any vaccum leaks. so there must be a fast idle valve or something like it on the throttlebody. Anybody know anything about this business?

P.S. what do you guys know about the SAFCII and different MAFs. i have HEARD that you can run the cobra or 300zx maf, and not have to recode the ECU with the SAFCII. I also heard you can run open atmospheric, so you can put a BOV on and not have the computer freak out about lost air.


BlockHead
Posts: 210
Joined: Tue Jan 07, 2003 1:05 pm

Post

the q45 maf is also a swap you can do and it can handle alot of air

Joe
Posts: 6511
Joined: Sun Feb 09, 2003 8:29 pm
Location: Phoenix, AZ

Post

does it only idle high when its cold?does it idle "normal" when the motor is warm?

User avatar
HybridOne
Posts: 362
Joined: Wed Oct 22, 2003 3:46 pm
Car: swaps
Contact:

Post

it will idle high at random times...even when it has been running for a while. So, it idles high when cold and when warm. i understand why it would idle high when it's cold, but not after it has warmed up. PLUS, the idle is random, it's not always the same...but it's always higher than it should be when the car is warmed up.

oreofreak
Posts: 19
Joined: Tue Oct 07, 2003 4:55 pm
Car: Drifting

Post

I have had this problem a lot with my RBs. A RB20DET should idle at 650rpm when it has warmed up. Your problem sounds like a vacuum leak. I know you said you check already. But you should check again. You will be surprised all different places this engine leak vacuum from. Check to make sure all your bolts are torque on your throttle body and intake manifold. Check all of your clamps on you intercooler pipeing. Check to make sure you don't have a small hole in your intercooler. Check all your vacuum lines in and around the intake manifold that always dry rot crack from the heat of engine. Their is a idle adjustment screw on your AAC try playing with that a little. If you put the Z32 mafs on your car without using a SAFC or a tuned computer for the Z32 it will cause a high idle. The reason for this because the Z32 is a Hot Wire Type 2 sensor and the RB20 is a Hot Wire Type 4 sensor. Trying using a can of break cleaner or WD40 to find vaccuum leaks by listening to change of idle of your engine.

User avatar
HybridOne
Posts: 362
Joined: Wed Oct 22, 2003 3:46 pm
Car: swaps
Contact:

Post

if i unplup the AAC the idle stays steady at 650. I think it has something to do with a sensor sending a signal to the ECU telling the AAC to up the idle. Maybe the IACV? I dunno. The car is my shop right now dismantled. I'm going through everything trying to figure out whats up.

oreofreak
Posts: 19
Joined: Tue Oct 07, 2003 4:55 pm
Car: Drifting

Post

I am pretty sure that the AAC is for your AC compressor. When you turn on your a AC the rpm will go up for the extra load produce by the AC compressor. This keeps the engine from stalling out when turn on your AC compressor.

User avatar
Wulfgang
Posts: 908
Joined: Tue Oct 28, 2003 5:41 pm

Post

AAC is for A/C compressor AND idle speed control (fine tuning) on the RB20. The KA's have a separate valve for A/C (the FICD valve) and so the AAC is used only to fine tune the idle speed.

Shane


Return to “RB20DET / RB25DET / RB26DETT Forum”