a video of under my hood of my 98 i30 hearing a tick noise

[handz1000]

and a rusty belt scrape of some sought

Finally got a chance to look under my car today after getting the 3 codes one for the evap and the 2 sensors ...i went under my car near the drivers back wheel ,near the fuel line and evap /hose (pardon my lack of terms) and i adjusted a wire near it because the wire looked a little loose ..so i just pushed the wire up more and then turned on my car and BOOM my check engine light was gone??

very weird ,could that of been my problem with the codes?? just some lose wires?? throwing out codes for me?? im not even sure what wire i adjusted lol

made a video of under my hood ..so you guys can hear the little rattle tick noise i hear...and you can see black stained on the exhaust manifold..could there of been a gasket leak or is there a problem with the manifold..or is that typical?


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FnjmYlGU2eY

let me know if anything sounds out of the norm .. the 2nd belt that is next to the chain belt is a bit rusty? you can see me lean in towards it ..but i watched the video myself and the noise coming from the audio is a bit misleading the car is pretty silent but i hear what could be a little tick and the actual engine shakes a tad bit..


cold start screech also video coming soon. time for the a/c belt or to adjust the pullys??
again pardon my lack of car knowledge just going off of the little i know..figured a video would be the best bet.

updated vid

http://youtu.be/FnjmYlGU2eYFinally got a chance to look under my car today after getting the 3 codes one for the evap and the 2 sensors ...i went under my car near the drivers back wheel ,near the fuel line and evap /hose (pardon my lack of terms) and i adjusted a wire near it because the wire looked a little loose ..so i just pushed the wire up more and then turned on my car and BOOM my check engine light was gone??

very weird ,could that of been my problem with the codes?? just some lose wires?? throwing out codes for me?? im not even sure what wire i adjusted lol

made a video of under my hood ..so you guys can hear the little rattle tick noise i hear...and you can see black stained on the exhaust manifold..could there of been a gasket leak or is there a problem with the manifold..or is that typical?


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FnjmYlGU2eY

let me know if anything sounds out of the norm .. the 2nd belt that is next to the chain belt is a bit rusty? you can see me lean in towards it ..but i watched the video myself and the noise coming from the audio is a bit misleading the car is pretty silent but i hear what could be a little tick and the actual engine shakes a tad bit..


cold start screech also video coming soon. time for the a/c belt or to adjust the pullys??
again pardon my lack of car knowledge just going off of the little i know..figured a video would be the best bet.

updated vid

http://youtu.be/FnjmYlGU2eY

[speedeast]

This is an interesting post... almost like deja vu.

As for the video, it's hard to hear too well over the lifter tapping, unless you're talking about the lifters. It also sounds like you have a vacuum leak which could make the lifter tap sound louder. The stain that's on the "intake" manifold is just oil and grime. Oil could have spilled there and now it has attracted dirt and grime. The aluminum is very porous and susceptible to stains like that. What 2 sensors are you referring to about the codes? Can you take a picture of the wire you fiddled with?

As for the tapping, add a can of sea foam to the crankcase, drive it a few miles and then do a complete oil change. Judging by the look of the engine, I would recommend against synthetic oils. Pennzoil is good.

[handz1000]

Sorry for the double post lol and as soon as I get home I can take pics of what wire I adjusted but the check engine light came back again todsay so I dono ..the inital codes were the original P0133(air fuel ratio) af sensor 1 circuit slow response

probable causes were noted as

lean a/f ratio fuel system faulty
large vcauum leak on engine
faulty maf sensor
or faulty af sensor

those were the 4 probable causes noted

then the other 2 codes


p1448

canister vent control vale open
probable causes
failed canister vent solnoid
saturated evap canister
or failed fuel tank pressure sensor


then p0138
heated oxygen sensor bank 1 sensor 2 )ho2s12)
probable causes noted
rich a/f ratio
blocked exhaust
short circut

[handz1000]

under the car @13 seconds and 50 seconds on http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nt28EN7v6cQ at 15 seconds is the wire/sensor is adjusted initially to get the cel off then it went back on after 3 days

[speedeast]

I'm not sure, but that could very likely be the wiring to the O2 sensor. If it is, that would explain the P0133 and P0138.

The next step is to see if you can repair the wiring at that connector and then we can go from there.

[handz1000]

Alright cool ill check it out and report back when I get that done...Thanks bro

[speedeast]

what's the word holmes?

[handz1000]

rained the past 4 days over here so i have to wait till tommorow to go under and check also im gonna find a away to just take of the sensor and then put it back on ..i plan on replacing both soon and hoping thats the root of my cel....new video coming of my cold strat screech and quick oil light flicker upon start up.

[loystock]

Your car has 3 O2 sensors - 2 for the front, Left Bank (for cylinders 2-4-6, towards radiator) and Right Bank (for cylinders 1-3-5, towards firewall) and one rear sensor (after the main 'cat'). P0133 is for front O2 sensor, Right Bank while P0138 is for the Rear O2 sensor. Before you replace the O2 sensors, first check the air intake (between air filter box and TB) for leak (spray Carb Cleaner on suspected area and listen for change in engine RPM). If intake is Ok, then clean the MAF sensor (use Zero Residue Contact Cleaner or CRC MAF Sensor Cleaner). Also check the exhaust for cracks/loose fitting. If the problem persisted, then most likely, you have bad O2 sensors. A good place to buy O2 sensors is at "sparkplugs.com" but if you know the part number, you can get it cheap from Amazon (OEM is Bosch and is expensive but NGK/NTK works fine). Universal O2 sensor is cheaper but a bad crimp can cause premature failure. It is also advisable to buy an O2 sensor adapter (@ $10) to prevent damage to cable during removal/installation.

P1448 means the Evap Canister Valve remained open. It could be the Vent Control Solenoid Valve or related connector, defective Evap Pressure Sensor or even a saturated canister. First, check all tubings and connections to/from evap canister. If you have to remove them, make sure you label them as a mis-connection will make it worse and hard to diagnose.

For additional info, refer to the link below

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/i30/1998_I30/ec.pdf