A/T problems Still!

Post by **subzero9935** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 3:22 am

I have a 99' maxima Se with 46,700 miles and started having trans problems last nov on my way home in a big snow storm when i got home my car barely drove in the garage, like i had a flat tire, then the od light blinked at me. (pulled the code and it was solenoid low line pressure) So i let it set for a couple hours and it worked fine. So i let it go well about a month later i noticed it would rev a little (like 300rpms when it shifted from 3rd to 4th) and then went down like normal and it works like normal but it only did that after it was driven at least 10 miles (when it was warmed up). So other org members recommended a overhaul. A well reputable trans shop pressure tested my third gear clutches because it would rev slightly before switching to fourth, and would not do it if i had od off. So they overhauled it and replaced everything And they raised the pressure a bit and put in a shift kit so i don't think that it is a pressure problem because it shifts firmer and faster. Now after they replaced everything in the trans and it still did it today after i got it back?? Do any of you guys know what would be wrong with it? Drop res or something simple maybe? All i know is im now out 1500.00 Any input would be greatly appreciated. :help

Post by **NISTECH** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 3:22 am

check your TPS make sure it sweeps correctly with a volt meter also check its base setting should be between .4 and .5 v at rest porition with the car warmed up.

Post by **NISTECH** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 3:22 am

oh also check your ECM for codes if you have any po7xx codes stored that is a strong indication either the TPS is out of adjustment or bad.

Post by **subzero9935** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 3:22 am

I have had a po745 way in the begining when the od light first blinked at me in november. But the solenoids were replaced in the overhaual. I have had no further codes since then, is the TPS flying under the radar so to speak? I will test it this weekend. Is the drop resister (for the A/T) on the driver strutwall maybe have any thing to do with it? Thank You!!

Post by **NISTECH** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 3:22 am

yes it could but it is not very common to be the problem. especially on a car as new as yours.

Post by **subzero9935** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 3:22 am

so how do u test the tps? my transmission is also kind of hesitant when u hit the gas it has to think what to do and then goes a little later unless i floor it then it kicks down, b4 and after the rebuild. How common is the tps to go out if that is what it is?Thanks

Post by **NISTECH** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 3:22 am

pretty often. there was actually a TSB on it for earlier models for all models not just the maxi. you test it with a voltmeter [better with a dso(expensive graphing meter)] with the car warmed up and turned off you monitier the voltage sweep on the white wire in the brown connector. at rest it should read between .4 to .5 volts at wide open throttle approx 4.0 volts slowly rotate it from rest to wide open throttle watching the voltage climb. if the voltage "glitches" you have a bad spot in the TPS. on the downward sweep go very slowly and gently let it rest on its stop and watch you volt meter. The voltage should return to the voltage it was when you started. If after it sits there for awhile all the sudden the volts climbs up with out you even touching the throttel it has a problem internally and needs replacement. Do the test 4 or 5 times as it wont do it all the time.

Post by **subzero9935** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 3:22 am

I tested my tps this morning after driving home 15 miles from work and it tested 4.38 open and .637 closed and those were consistant. are they off? maybe enough to throw anything out of wack? I noticed it has only reved after shifting to 4rth once since i got it back from the trans place last tuesday. could stuff be breaking in yet? sometimes when slowing down from speed like doing 65 to a stop i notice my tach kind of bobs once in a while to (around idle). And when doing 75 it usually revs @2600 rpms (used to anyway) right away, now it takes like 4 miles to do it, sometimes when i throttle it a little it goes down then. But it sure does shift faster and firmer than the original. ;0) I was hoping it would be this to fix my troubles but? Is there any other sensor that would reek havoc to the above problems mentioned? Kind alot of info listed above but i hope it will help ya. Thank You!!

Post by **NISTECH** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 3:22 am

Ok now you need to test the wires on the other connector as .637 volts is a bit high. but it may be ok if your closed throttle contacts are working. But first I need to be sure you took those readings after the car was fully warmed up?? Did you do the slow sweep tests without glitches or rising voltages after letting sit at rest position.

Ok the test your gonna do on the Gray connector now. between terminals 5 (green wire) and 6(gray/blue tracer). Your not actually going to do anything with the harness. with the car off unplug it and use an ohmmeter to test for continuity between those 2 terminals on the sensor it self. At rest it should have continuity. and just off rest it should go open(like.012 in). If it is open at rest you need to adjust it so it has continuity at rest. Again this is done with the engine fully warmed up.

EDITED: to make sence ..doh!!

Post by **subzero9935** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 3:22 am

It should have been warm i drove 15 miles and popped the hood and got to work. I did the sweep test on the reddish connectorand it looked ok it went up and down pretty smooth. and at a rest it stayed at the voltage. Could the other conn be bad? and will this help my problems?

Post by **NISTECH** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 3:22 am

thats what I am telling you to test next is where the grey connector plugs in. to determine if the closed throttle switch is coming on. Since your voltage is at .637 volts I suspect its not. and that in itself wil cause all kinds of shift problems. If it thinks your still giving it gas it will not down shift properly. and could have problems in your upshifting pattern. Do the test on the sensor I mentioned above and see what you come up with. I will try to get ahold of the TSB reffering to the proper feeler gauge settings on that sensor this afternoon.

Post by **subzero9935** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 3:22 am

I tested it after warming it up and it read 0.18 closed and nothing at open i did this 3 times and got the same when i start to move the throttle it read nothing.

Post by **NISTECH** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 3:22 am

and that is what it is suppose to do. it should have contact closed and not have contact open.

Post by **subzero9935** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 3:22 am

So the thing is good? what would cause my idle to jump around allot when coming to a stop and letting off gas in gear? My car still hesitates when i step on the gas it's like it has to think about what to do and then finally does it, but only when i floor it it really goes? How do i adjust the air idle screw on the back of thr body (the one with the hose that runs to the air cleaner resonator? I adjusted it to see if my idle would improve but think i made it worse, it still stays @750 rpms at idle but feels different????

Post by **NISTECH** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 3:22 am

oh oh you hit a symptom listed in a tsb I printed on your car yesterday.I will type out the symptom listed on it and you tell me if it sounds about right.

"If a 1998 or 1999 Maxima with an automatic transmission exhibits a hesition or throttle shock after the accelerator is gently applied and then released, the cuase may be the engine control module[ecm]. The condition may occur while cruising in 4th gear between 40-50 mph."

Post by **NISTECH** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 3:22 am

The idle jumping though is also a sign of TPS idle switch going on and off. My advice at this point would be to adjust your tps so the voltage on your first test is closer to .5 volts rather then the .6 it is at now.

Post by **subzero9935** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 3:22 am

not hesitant between 40-50 just all the time like when taking off on part throt

Post by **subzero9935** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 3:22 am

when i ajust it to .5 will it throw off the other monitering signals? and if that move it up or down?

Post by **subzero9935** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 3:22 am

I thought maximas where trouble free reliable cars ive owned this since oct and it is the most troubled car ive ever owned...like 16 cars-trucks!!

Post by **NISTECH** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 3:22 am

maximas are typically really good cars. changing the voltage wont effect anything else.I forgot to mention once you have the voltage adjusted you need to cycle the key 3 times each time you turn it off for 10sec then on for 5 sec. you do not start the car just turn the key to the run position. after the three cycles you should have cleared the self learned values. then drive it and see if it has improved.

Post by **subzero9935** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 3:22 am

I got it right on .500 but i never really noticed any diff, but i never cycled the key three times either, (just read the post now, worked on it earlier) I noticed my torque convertor just started wining when starting cold lately, so i suppose it is faulty hugh?I will have to take it back to shop again.

Post by **NISTECH** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 3:22 am

yea if your getting whine from the trans definitly take it back to the shop that did the trans.

Post by **subzero9935** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 3:22 am

ok so i took it back to the transmission place and they dropped the pan and looked at it and supposedly replaced the solenoids again but? The rpms still bounce around when lowing down fast or just slowing down to stop. It bounces off the lowest rev, (when car starts shaking), and then goes back to normal, and sometimes it just sits at 500 rpm and the car vibrates (but when i shift to nuetral when stopped it goes to normal). They said that the torque conv was fine ( no shavings in pan) and it stopped whining a while ago and hasn't did it since. But today when taking off fast to cross busy intersection my car starts out in like 3 gear (which does it quite freq) and i had it floored and it would not shift to lower gear. I had to let off and stomp again then finally worked. Is there maybe a trans comp problem? Or should i just replace the tps sensor? This is really driving me CRAZY!! PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks

Post by **audtatious** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 3:22 am

You need to take it right back. If they supposedly "fixed" the tranny and it has a single problem, they need to fix it. Period.

Post by **subzero9935** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 3:22 am

that is not really helping me troubleshoot the problem

Post by **audtatious** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 3:22 am

LOL...Sorry....

My point is you paid a tranny company to fix the problem and they did not. Since you are still having problems with it, THEY are the responsible party. I know I would be camping on their steps.

You may try posting this in the "Nissan Online Mechanic" forum to get some troubleshooting information.

Post by **subzero9935** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 3:22 am

What ever happended to nistech he was helping me??

Post by **audtatious** » Wed Mar 10, 2004 3:22 am

nistech has been swamped recently....

I'm not going to try and diagnose the problem (much) as I am not a tranny person nor do I have the documentation available like nistech does. If nistech has a chance to answer your question, that would be preferred.

While I find it great that you are attempting to figure out the problem and resolve it yourself, I also have to question it. You paid good money for a supposedly "well reputable trans shop" to fix the problem for you, yet you are still having the same issues. Why are they sending you home with a vehicle that is not functioning properly and why did they replace the solenoids again if they had fixed it in the first place? Something is very fishy with them. For $1500, I would have been camped at their door to make sure they fixed the actual problem with the vehicle. Sounds like they charged you $1500 for nothing.

Now, if you still question the TPS, have you looked at replacing it? Since I have heard numerous stories of shops disconnecting the SES, have you checked the ECU to make sure there are no diagnostics codes listed?

Cycling the key 3 times as nistech suggested will reset the ECU (I believe). Have you tried this and did this give any temporary changes to the problems you are having?

A/T problems Still!

A/T problems Still!

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