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The G-Series Tuning Forum is the place to discuss G35/G37 performance modifications and mechanical repair.
BrandAidDesignG35
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Hi all,

I recently installed new plugs, and an engine tourque damper... I'm having an issue while driving at highway speeds, in 5th usually, around 2K or just above, it feels like the engine will start chattering/sputtering when easing over hills, under little load...

If I give it gas, it will go away, but it's pretty freaky, do you think I should remove the engine damper?

anyone with similar problems? Kenrick?

thanks guys, i don't want to hurt my G, so I'm contemplating just removing it


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Beancooker
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That sounds like your plugs, and not the damper. The damper will not cause a problem like that. It just keeps the engine from moving so much.

What kind of plugs did you buy? I'll bet a ham sammich that the plugs are your problem.

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G_whizz
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Beancooker wrote:That sounds like your plugs, and not the damper. The damper will not cause a problem like that. It just keeps the engine from moving so much.
Exactly right!

BrandAidDesignG35
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It is possible that the gap was too large on the second one I put in, could this be the cause of the problem? I would take you a bit more seriously if you put the stakes up a bit, a ham sandwich is pretty petty bet



No, I'm kidding, I'll check my gaps, and see if that helps.

Thanks all... I should've just run the plugs before installing the damper...

OK guys thanks, but has anyone else experienced anything like this? My SES light has been on a few weeks prior to the plug swap, and now it's gone, finally, so I think they were bad, just the gaps off...

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Beancooker
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The brand of plugs m,akes a difference as well. Hard to believe, but it's true.

So, what did you put in? Please don't say "Pulstar".

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Sentientbydesign
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Beancooker wrote:The brand of plugs m,akes a difference as well. Hard to believe, but it's true.

So, what did you put in? Please don't say "Pulstar".
I'd be happy if he put some Pulstars in. I want first hand reports on that weird plug.

BrandAidDesignG35
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Well, I just went to Infiniti and asked for NGK G35 plugs, the plugs had an "R" on the porcelain, and I think they were NGK iridium, but came packaged as Nissan OEM... if that helps...

I know the importance of quality plugs, why I went to infiniti, but I certainly trust you guys more than the retards in parts dept... they can't even seem to order my parts right They sent me mudflaps?!? I wanted the 05 bumper / little thingy that goes behind the rear wheel...

I guess I can't be too hard on them, I did say, "thingy"...

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C-Kwik
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I doubt they gave you iridiums. NGK currently does not sell their iridium center with platinum ground electrode plugs in the US. The iridiums they do sell here only have an iridium center electrode with a standard type of ground. The dealer provided part will likely have been the double platinum plugs.

As for your problem, pull your plugs and check them. Correct any problems you find. When you do put them back in though, make sure the coil paks are installed securely in place.

I can't imagine the damper would cause such a problem, but perhaps if you find no issues with the plugs, remove the damper to see what happens. You could simply have a different problem that just coincidentally manifested after you changed your plugs and added the engine damper...

BrandAidDesignG35
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OK thanks, I'll have some time tommorrow to check, oh, BTW, the new plugs were the same plugs that were removed 18$ each = $120 / anti-sieze 8$ total =$128.

Why can't I seem to do anything right

I wish I knew everything I need to know, I'd have a crazy car if my dreams were reality.

AndrewG909
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BrandAidDesignG35 wrote:OK thanks, I'll have some time tommorrow to check, oh, BTW, the new plugs were the same plugs that were removed 18$ each = $120 / anti-sieze 8$ total =$128.

Why can't I seem to do anything right

I wish I knew everything I need to know, I'd have a crazy car if my dreams were reality.
Don't be too hard on yourself, changing ur own spark plugs is better than 90% of the population, so ur not doing too bad.

Once I get back from this TDY I'll be debating on changing mine. Kinda hard tho when you've got absolutely no tools.

BrandAidDesignG35
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so, just get some tools, and watch this video, it may be useful

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ShWEPSf4RTA


AndrewG909
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Not sure what would be cheaper, buying new tools or just taking it to the dealer.

Tried hinting to my girl that some tools would be nice for my BDay, but instead a got an Ipod Touch.

She could have bought me tools and mods for that 600 dollars.

Females...when will they learn.

joe603
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So return the ipod touch and go to sears!

BrandAidDesignG35
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I lucked out with a 300 peice socket set for my last Bday, or was it Christmas...

I got my girl taught right, last year was the security system / alarm install, and she's hinting at new tail lights for "her" POS... We'll see, maybe I'll get her a table saw

She's in my bad books right now, is there a forum on here for relationships?!? I need to vent!

AndrewG909
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Trade in the ipod, go to sears, then have to deal with the guilt after I see the look on her face. Grrr... Almost worth it, but not quite.

It's your thread man, feel free to vent. Just throw an innocuous G35 after every other sentence to fool the moderators and make them think we're staying on topic. They don't really read these posts anyways. I hear some of them don't even really know how to read.

On a side note: did it end up being your spark plugs that caused the problems?

BrandAidDesignG35
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Well, I did check the plugs, and the problem is still there...

However, I also inspected my MAF, and besides being dirty, I noticed some scratching So... I may be in deeper than initially expected.

Anyone know the symptoms of a sour MAF sensor? Or if minor scratches would play a role in the new behavoirs? (sputter / misfire on highway under light load)

Any help is greatly appreciated... I'm yet to remove the damper, as time is tight.

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Sentientbydesign
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How the hell does your MAF get scratched? Even when my "el cheapo" cone filter fell apart and the metal cap got sucked into the MAF, the screen caught it and stopped the sensor from being touched.

Plus they designed the MAF on the I30 to have it's own little tunnel within a tunnel design...For durability and air flow I suppose.

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Beancooker
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G35's MAF's don't have screens.

If the maf is bad, then the car will be sputtering, and running like crap.

BrandAidDesignG35
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dumb I know, it's the only removable piece with the WAI, I just set it aside below where the stock intake would be, right below your K&N air filter, it must've been sraped on the frame.

Are they expensive?

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Beancooker
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$200-$300 but that was just a quick google search. I'm sure you can get one cheaper through one of our sponsors.

What is scratched, the inside, or outside?

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RED_DET
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You didn't mix up some plug wires did you?

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Sentientbydesign
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Beancooker wrote:G35's MAF's don't have screens.

If the maf is bad, then the car will be sputtering, and running like crap.
Haven't had the chance to start the intake project. Sorry...

CPV35GT
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Suggestion:Go to an AutoZone and rent a OBDII scanner. It's basically free. All mine wanted was a deposit, then you get 100% deposit back when scanner returned and can keep scanner as long as you need.

See what codes are stored while not running. Most will say what the code means. Then check for codes while running. Fix issue(s) and then most scanners will allow you to clear the stored fault codes after issue(s) fixed.

You don't necessarly need a cel/mil light to have a fault code and/or one still stored in ECU. Found that out on my daughters car. It was getting bad mpg/loss power. Rented scanner and it pulled up an intermedient misfire on a plug with no cel/mil light on. Runs like a champ now.

Scratch on MAF...will need replacement. Ouch on the price

USAF_G35_Guy
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Might be the sensor, but I'm sure you didn't manhandle the intake THAT much to mess it up. Maybe take a pic of the scratches/damage and post? Also +1 on double checking the plug wires, although those would have been hard to get mixed up unless you paused your job a few times for a phone call or wifey conversation. OR the obvious of....you were drinking beer while working on the car! HAHA! I can't talk tho, I put em back while I'm workin on the ride

If you end up not finding the problem and decide to remove the damper, you can probably just remove whichever bolt is easiest to get to and just tie the damper back with a tie wrap/strap or a little piece or scrap wire or something so you don't have to do a total removal. If you do that, just make sure it's secure so it doesn't flap around while you're on your test drive. Good luck!

BrandAidDesignG35
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Thanks all for the the info, I'm planning to go mess around again today, I will say, the car is running better since I checked the gaps again, I still am concerned about the MAF, but it seems ok now

What do you know of the best cleaning method for the throttle body?

Cleaning the MAF? Thanks again everyone, I never did remove the damper, it just makes the car sound so much better in low RPM...

RED? I'm not that boozed:alcohol lol

I'll go snap some pics for you guys now

TeflonG35
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Pretty hard to mess up the wires when you have coils.

BrandAidDesignG35
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OK guys, the problem is officially fixed, thanks all for the input, I think it was a combination of things, but primarily two of the gaps were off, and I properly torqued the plugs down to 20lbs... much smoother idle, bursting acceleration, and laid back on the HWY

I will keep an eye on my MAF, but for now, fingers crossed, it's all good baby

CPV35GT
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BrandAidDesignG35 wrote: .....

What do you know of the best cleaning method for the throttle body?

Cleaning the MAF? .....
Example of MAF cleaning product: http://www.autobarn.net/maairflsecl1.htmlLocal auto part stores should have similar or any electronic contact cleaner that leaves no residual. Never physically touch actual sensor with anything except the cleaning spray or air in a can which I use every time I clean my Amsoil airfilter for example.

TB cleaning can't recommend best method. Dealer did mine at my request before swapping related parts to my new VQ bare long block warranty replacement. Maybe a TB cleaner in a can, but not sure if that will mess up the TB position sensor or require re-cal after doing that.

Glad to hear all is running better now after re-gapping plugs


CPV35GT
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TeflonG35 wrote:Pretty hard to mess up the wires when you have coils.
Yeah I left that one alone when I read that


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