A peek at VH45DE internals 1525xx miles

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3Q Jay
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I bought this one in April 2007 with 107k. It had had pretty regular 3k dino changes from 70k to 107k. I've been running GC or M1 (mostly M1) for the last 40k+
Had to do vcg's. I'm quite happy with the cleanliness.
Image
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Ozzie
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Pretty clean for the age.

3Q Jay
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Ozzie wrote:
Thu Mar 28, 2019 2:16 am
Pretty clean for the age.
thanks AUS-man! She's a keeper.....even though it's getting harder and more expensive to find parts to keep her going strong...

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AZhitman
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Beauty!

Mine looked like that at 120k.

maxnix
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Such nice simple engines once one studies the FSM with Q45tech guidance.

Is this the Q45a?

Fond memories of you and your dad.

3Q Jay
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Hey Brian-
Yeah this is the BlacQ-95 that we went to Lockhart in for BBQ. Driver's side is starting to leak on the silver '94 as well....
still have the beemer?

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Q45ver
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Impressive and nice to see others hanging on to these unique cars. Replaced all injectors in mine last year and try and drive it enough to keep the fuel fresh. Not sure what the future will be for it, should something significant break. It will become my grandson's dilemma eventually but still looks fine in my garage. 140Km's or 87k miles.

texasoil
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The engine valve /cam photos are pretty good in most respects. There is no sign of excessive wear on the cam, and there is no sign of sludge. However, there IS HEAVY VARNISH.

I suggest adding a pint of Marvel Mystery Oil to the oil and changing the oil at 1000 miles, repeat at least two times. MMO is very good at softening the varnish so a good high-detergency oil can dissolve the varnish. SYNTHETIC oils ARE NOT good at varnish removing. Some would suggest using a pint of ATF. I do not.
The varnish build up results from infrequent oil changes, bad (high varnish and gum) gasoline. There are parts with very close tolerances (valve lifters for one) and oil rings the varnish will cause to stick.

I am an advocate of 'take it gentle' when trying to clean-up varnish. Many 'quick flush' products can cause old 'rubber' seals to swell too fast and crack.

Once again, synthetic base oils are NOT GOOD VARNISH removing oils. They have POOR solvency. Actually, cheap 'dino' oil is the best for cleaning up varnish. Just avoid WOT runs and hard driving with them.

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Q451990
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Great to see you again texasoil!

maxnix
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Ah, TexasOil. I always wonder if you still have your SL600.

Glad to see you around.

3Q Jay
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Hi Keith, nice to hear from you, I had tried emailing you a few months ago (hotmail address) with a question about the tandem pump....I eventually resolved those.
Anyway, you bring up an interesting point on the detergent vs solvent qualities of synth (group III base stocks I presume) oils. I've seen other VH45DEs wtih purple hard varnish all over, so I wasn't overly concerned with the soft varnish (as an aside, I could easily remove the varnish with a blue paper towel and easy hand pressure from smooth surfaces).
I think it was jamesmost a few years ago spun a rod bearing using heavy solvents in the oil (of course he beat the piss out of his engine too)....so I'm not likely to go the MMO route. What do you think about lubegard red (synthetic LXE whale oil) mixed with engine oil? I believe LG red is good at breaking down solvent (we used it in the multivalve).
Actually speaking of actives, I will start a companion thread on active fluid, for which the Nissan factory product is now obsolete.

3Q Jay
Posts: 2545
Joined: Sat May 08, 2004 6:23 pm
Car: 94 Q45a
95 Q45a (sold)
97 Q45t (sold)
01 B15 Sentra (Daughter's)
Also Mine...
2010 A6 Avant
1977 F-150 (460!)
Location: Florida Coast

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3Q Jay wrote:
Fri Jul 19, 2019 7:43 am
I believe LG red is good at breaking down Varnish (we used it in the multivalve).
Edited typo from previous post


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