A nightmare!!

[iam2pro4u]

Started my car up not long after i had got home and was going back out and my car wouldnt go into gear at first. Then i get it in gear and started driving go to 2nd and it wont go so i coast and stop and car wont go in any gear. Figured maybe my clutch went up so i push it back to my house. Later on went to start it back up and car wont even turn over. It just makes a click sound. Anyone have any clue? If so please help this cars been never ending problems.

[mtcookson]

Clutch wise you may first try bleeding the system. Check for leaks around the rubber hose that goes to the slave cylinder and make sure there is enough fluid in the reservoir. Once you start bleeding there are actually two points that you need to bleed, one that is on the passenger's side wheel well I believe and the other right on the slave cylinder on the transmission. Most miss the one in the engine bay so be sure to do that one.

As for not starting, first check your battery terminals. A lot of the time the terminals get dirty and there isn't a good enough connection to start the car. Pick up a battery terminal cleaner at your local parts store or even some gas stations have them and that'll get it clean.

If that doesn't work, check to make sure your battery is charged. If its depleted then you need to find out how. Charge it up and start the car, then pull one of the cables off the battery. If the car dies your alternator is shot. If it keeps running, then there's a chance you left something on depleting the battery.

My guess though, since you're hearing a click, is that the terminals are just dirty. That seems to be the most common cause that I've seen and experienced.

[Milo (San Antonio)]

2nd, good informational starting point.

[iam2pro4u]

I bled the clutch and air keeps flowing through then fluid will come through and then it goes right back to air. I kept it topped up the hole time then when it finally feels right. I start it and the clutch pedal goes right to the floor. This means i need a new clutch. Am i right or wrong?

[mtcookson]

If there's any air in the line it will cause the problems with the clutch pedal. There must be a leak somewhere so I would try tracking that down. It would most likely be in the rubber line going to the slave cylinder.

If it is leaking, I would go ahead and upgrade to a stainless steel braided line.

[Wetmyson]

i just had a problem like this a few days ago. i had replaced the clutch slave cylinder and clutch master cylinder. after i disconnected the line to the slave cylinder and opened the system up, the clutch pedal went all the way to the floor, and did not come back up. eventually, a friend and i figured out that if you pump the clutch pedal a bunch it builds the hydraulic pressure up because it breaks up the air bubbles or something scientific. so if you top it up with fluid, have one person pump the clutch a bunch and then keep bleeding it that way. eventually, the pedal should start coming back up.

good luck

[mtcookson]

Ahh yeah, forgot about the slave cylinder itself. That could be leaking as well.

[iam2pro4u]

I have checked for leaks and haven't found one. I don't even see signs of anything leaking. And i have been pumping the clutch up but theres still no clutch when u go to put it in gear. The pedal doesn't even get stiff, u can push it straight to the floor.

[mtcookson]

Might check the clutch master cylinder then, that would be the last place I would check as it has to be in the hydraulic system. The chances of something happening to the throw out bearing or pressure plate to cause the clutch pedal to drop like that would be very slim.

I suppose one other thing you can do is to have a friend pump the clutch up while you watch the slave cylinder, see if it moves at all when pumped up. I'm willing to bet that it isn't moving enough to disengage the clutch. If so I would definitely check the clutch master cylinder. If it does move enough then it'd be time to drop the transmission.

[iam2pro4u]

How much does it have to move to actually be disengaging the clutch? I just checked it and its moving about a 1/2 in. but its making a squeaky noise when moving.
Modified by iam2pro4u at 12:58 PM 6/25/2007

[mtcookson]

Hmm... yeah, that doesn't seem like enough to get it disengaged. Disengagement points will always be different on every car so I'm not sure off hand what the TT's would be.

It definitely still sounds like a hydraulic issue to me. I would try the master cylinder as the last resort and if that doesn't solve it we'll have to look elsewhere.

[iam2pro4u]

So your saying i shouldn't replace the slave cylinder, and instead replace the master cylinder?

[nghtrain88]

I had the problem where my clutch would keep getting closer to the floor.. i would fill the master reservoir up and a few days later the clutch would go down again and the fluid level dropped.. it was a leak in a seal in the master cylinder that actually forced the fluid out, down the clutch pedal and into the cabin

[iam2pro4u]

I dont see any leaks anywhere. So without the leak issue does anyone know whats next?

[iam2pro4u]

Ok i figured out something new not quiet sure if this will help any but... If i unhook the hose from the clutch booster where it goes to the T and close off both ends so there isnt a vacuum leak, my clutch isnt mushy when i start up the car. Still wont go into gear though.

[mtcookson]

So your saying i shouldn't replace the slave cylinder, and instead replace the master cylinder?

For the slave cylinder I would just try a rebuild kit. Its just a simple boot and likely a seal. For the master cylinder I would try one from a salvage yard first. I don't think they go out all that often but it happens every now and then.

If a seal goes bad in the master cylinder its possible for you not to have any pressure but no leaks. I had a case where a brake master cylinder went out. Never had any leaks but it wouldn't stop the car at all. Replaced with a new master cylinder and it worked perfectly.

The booster basically just makes the clutch easier to press. The stock pressure plate has a pretty high clamping rate so Nissan added a cluster booster to make the pedal easier to press (a lot like the brake booster).

[iam2pro4u]

alright ill look for a used master cylinder but for the slave cylinder its only like $30 for a new one so why fix the old?

[mtcookson]

Ahh, I didn't know they were so cheap. I'd go for that then.

[iam2pro4u]

Alright well now i just gotta hope this works. thanks for the help ill let you know how it goes

[mtcookson]

Sounds good. Good luck!

[computerking]

did you manage to fix your problem ?? I had a similar one but it was leaking out of the slave which i replaced. But bleeding the system was a real ***** took me two attemps and several hours?

[mtcookson]

To bleed the system properly you'll need a friend to help out.

First take the clutch master cylinder cap off (don't get any of the fluid on your paint). Bleed the slave cylinder to start. Use a 10 mm wrench and loosen the bleeder bolt then have your friend press the clutch in slowly. Once the pedal is all of the way down, tighten the bolt and have them release the pedal. Do this once, maybe twice more then check the fluid level in the reservoir (don't let it go dry or you'll have to repeat). Once you get no bubbles and have fresh fluid coming out, tighten the bleeder valve up and move on to the engine bay.

There is another bleeder valve here, on the right/passenger's side of the engine bay, on the front of the wheel well. Be sure to put a hose on it with a jar or similar to keep the fluid from getting on your paint. From here, repeat the process you did with the slave cylinder. As long as there aren't any other problems with the system, it should work perfectly after that.

[iam2pro4u]

I already did that. Thats what i was saying after i bleed it its like its all air then air and fluid then straight fluid and i keep it topped up and then it goes right back to air again. Seems like somethings leaking. But i dont see any leaks. Im gonna replace the slave cylinder and then still same problem replace master cylinder.

[mtcookson]

Sorry about that, I was replying to computerking.

[iam2pro4u]

Haha gotcha. Well slave cylinder should be in tomorrow and i master cylinder is on its way. Now just hoping this fixes my problem

[iam2pro4u]

Ok replaced slave cylinder and master cylinder then bled the line from both points. Still once you start the car the clutch pedal gets really mushy and u can push it straight to the floor.

[mtcookson]

Still not able to put it into gear either?

The only things really left would be the hose, the damper, the clutch fork or pivot, throw out bearing, or the pressure plate itself.

You could try putting a piece of metal between the transmission and clutch fork, then lightly press the clutch pedal to see if there's any more pressure (I wouldn't be too rough on it just in case there is good pressure, could mess something up putting too much pressure on it like that). If it has good pressure it'll be the fork, pivot, throw out bearing, or pressure plate and if its not good its still in the hydraulics.

I'm going to go out and mess with one of mine and see if I can figure out more.

[iam2pro4u]

Alright ill try that.. thanks alot let me know if you figure out more.

[mtcookson]

I'm just about ready to test my transmission stuff out. I just have to bolt up the transmission and make a clutch line and such and I'll be able to let you know the proper travel and whatever else I can figure out.

[iam2pro4u]

alright man thanks looking forward to seeing what you figure out