Hello guys, haven't been active on here in a while, but got back into a Nissan recently (sorta).
**Backstory before question, feel free to ignore**
In January I finally sold my Mustang (never liked that car) and got into a cool little 1983 Honda Civic Wagon. It's slow. 67 HP in 1983 didn;t translate well. I knew I would be putting A Nissan engine in but debated what would be best for my purpose. Then my decision was made unexpectedly when a 1987 Pulsar SE popped up for sale for $375. For that price, I could buy the car, take everything I need, and part the rest out to break even! So I bought it, non running and hopefully not totally blown. Trans Feels good and tight even though clutch pedal does nothing.

Long Story short:
CA16de going into another car.
I plan on rebuilding most

Here's my question: For any of you guys who have done swaps, did you delete emissions? I would really like to and I'm just wondering what steps (retuning the ecu somehow?) beyond removing equipment, blocking things off, etc need to be taken. Thanks in advance!

Doug

LMAO, I actually saw that car for sale and contemplated getting it. Had it of been a 1988 model it would've been in my driveway a long time ago. Question: Why don't you just keep the Pulsar and drive it? If you're wanting to be unique you're already there driving a Pulsar, lol.

Anyways, I've never deleted emissions from a CA16, but I'd imagine it's like everything else I've done it on. Remove everything, block things off, and leave it at that. BTW, you're going to have a tough time rebuilding that thing. We've been able to source just about everything to rebuild a CA18, but the problem you'll have is finding rings. Nissan only made that motor in that one car for that one year, so needless to say those rings are far and few between. But, if I were to try, I'd look here: http://www.importperformanceparts.net/

There are a few problems you'll run into attempting to put that motor in a Civic. Most of which you could overcome if you have mad fabrication skills, but thing that sticks out to me would be the axles, since I'm sure the length, splines, and diameter won't match up. Regardless, I don't think the swap would ever be worth it. If you really want to do anything with that Civic, I vote a B-series swap. Idk much about Hondas, but even that would be a feat to achieve because I think that chassis is nothing like other Hondas from 1988 and up. So a real word of advice, get a totally different car to start with as a base. You'll spend less money, go faster, and have a much smaller headache.

Thanks mdb!
I definitely think the Pulsar is unique and it's pretty cool, but the Honda to me has a much more "classic" feel and I love the way it feels/looks. From what I've found (and I could obviously be wrong, you've been working with these longer than I have), RockAuto still has a few brands of piston rings along with several other pieces.
I expect lots of problems, lol. I'm doing this to try to figure it all out for future swaps, primarily. Luckily, I'm in school at Georgia Tech and have access to a water jet, CNC, mill, and lathe as well as welding in the machine shop so I should be able to fabricate/have fabricated anything I need. The axles are what I'm expecting to be the biggest problem. Still thinking on that one.
You're probably right and it probably won't be worth it, but I do plan on proceeding and learning a ton even if it doesn't end up working out. Worst comes to worst, I have a fully rebuilt CA16 and the body (mostly clean) of the Pulsar it came from.

Doug
Edit: Are you in the Atlanta area?

Nah, Huntsville, AL. So about four hours away. When my step dad and I rebuilt a CA16 years ago we went through hell finding parts for it. The problem tends to be that this motor and car is so rare that everyone's inventory is screwed up and either they don't actually have the part or the wrong part is listed. Granted, my step dad and I didn't know about RockAuto back then, so you may have better luck. But I know everything else is the same as a CA18DE(T) so if you can find rings then you're good on everything else.

I think someone's dropped a CA into a B11 before. If that's the case then it could be done to an N12. That'd have a nice classic feel lol. I need to get that thought out of my head. An N12 deserves an N/A E16 with these twin side draft Mikunis sitting in my living room.

Anyways, if you're dead set on this swap (and it sound like you are and have the means) here's what I would do. Modify the chassis to accept the Pulsar parts without modification to them. At least as far as mounting and control goes. That way if/when you decide to go to a 1988 transmission (and believe me, you will. Especially once you get a DET in there) all the 1988 stuff will line up no problem. This would be the different mounts and the shift rods. Lengthening or shortening the rods wouldn't be too bad I don't guess.

The axles you can make measurements and have an axle shop build you ones to suit. That'd be the easiest, and probably only way. For an ecu you could use the stock ecu and harness. Luckily these "simple" times make it so you can just put power to it and it'll run. You can figure out all the dash plug stuff later. All the rest should be pretty simple to figure out. Just a lot of time and patience for modification.

I hope this gets you started.

I could definitely see that happening. That's already happened with a few small body pieces on my Honda. Hopefully RockAuto and the local Nissan dealer (which showed some parts in and some parts out of stock - mayyybe accurate) can provide whatever I may need. We'll see, I suppose!
Ok, that sounds like a good plan. Especially because that's the exact opposite of what I had planned on doing, lol. Hopefully mounting won't be too terrible, but I'll start the modeling and see what it looks like when I make it out to the Pulsar next.
That's what I was hoping to hear about the axles. haha the "simple" times should definitely make it easier, in comparison.
I'm just going to weed out as many electronics as I can, keep the non-power steering from the Honda, and probably skip out on A/C. Already don't have it and I can get by.
I may even have to put in a tachometer! lol.
I'm just excited to start sorting it all out. Thank you for all your advice, it does really help!

Here's the Honda (sorry for the phone pic)


and the Pulsar donor


Doug

Got a little bit of work done this weekend! Not much but at least got a decent start on cleaning out the bay. There was so much emissions crap! glad to be getting rid of all the pesky vacuum lines.. Anywho, this is where we called it quits.


Being that it was both my friend and my first time doing this we made slow progress and took (probably) more pictures than necessary along the way. Keeping the harness intact as much as possible for now. Definitely going to need a rebuild- clearly had a bad valve cover leak and the coolant left in it was pretty cruddy looking. But, I was planning (dare I say looking forward to?) taking that on anyway. I'll be picking up an engine stand next week and renting a crane soon after to get this moving to the next step! I'm a happy man.

For anyone interested in interior parts, here's some more pictures! The wheels are up for sale as well for anyone in the GA area, make me an offer..

Quick Question - Does anybody know the size of the transmission to engine bolts? I assume I may need to get extras before taking the engine stand up there but I would like to know what size ahead of time. I found one thread that said M9 but the guy wasn't positive and I need to be sure so I can put the engine on the stand!

There is no way I would be investing time swapping a CA16 into anything. I do however, know I would rock the hell out of that Pulsar. those cars are awesome

It'll pave the way for CA18 down the road if I want that. I'm just looking to learn, and this opportunity pretty much fell into my lap. I do plan on rocking the hell out of the Pulsar in the future - sans the doors, roof, and hatch. It needs a cage and an inline 6 before that happens, though.

Well haven't updated here in a while, but the engine is out of the car and my timeline has been moved up to December.. I'll have about 4 weeks in between my job and starting classes back up again when I can use my parent's garage so I'm going to take that time to get as much done as I possibly can!
I'm planning on ordering some stuff to rebuild real soon - planning on starting with just bearings (rod and main), valve stem seals, and all gaskets. If anything else shows up i'll adjust my plan accordingly but those are the only main components I'll hopefully have to replace. Open to suggestions if you guys are more familiar with common failures.

Thanks!
Doug

Go ahead and replace the rings, too, if you can source them. Those transmissions are so low geared the motors like to eat through rings like B16's

ca18detgabby: My Pulsar is for sale if you want a fun project

I did manage to get the last set of Clevite rings from RockAuto - Whoo!
Also ordered Fel Pro block gasket "Conversion Gasket set", Rod and Main Bearings, Upper and Lower timing belt tensioners, Timing belt and seals, and OEM Head Bolts through the Nissan Dealer. Planning on the Fel-Pro headgasket set next which will include Valve stem seals, then new water pump, thermostat, and Exedy clutch.

Here's the new wheels I got by the way - American Racing Equipment 398s from somewhere between 1980 and 85. Need a lot more cleaning up but they're pretty sweet. 14x6.


And new KYB Gas-A-Just vs. the probably original Honda struts


I wired in two rear speakers so now I have 4


And lastly, the set of Cassettes I picked up at the local Goodwill. They're awesome.



Looking forward to getting to work in December. Does anyone know if the injector clips are the same ones used from the L28? They looked pretty similar and I would love to replace them. Fresh rubber looks so much better.

Doug

Also,
I'm now in the market for the "Rear Plate" for a CA16 - the metal shim looking thing between the block and flywheel. Mine got a little messed up and I'll need a new one, I assume.

Doug

You can't just hammer it back out? I bend the crap out of my CA18 one once. Nothing 15 minutes, a hammer, and something flat didn't fix.

uh... I done goofed real hard. Probably (definitely lol) beyond hammer fixability. I screwed up pretty good there, haha.

Doug

I think I still have one attached to the DET I originally had in my N13 (connected to an RS5F31A). But what did you do to yours? FUBAR the axle hole or something? If that's the case just cut it off. It just gets in the way, lol.

Btw, I also have a Spec stage 3 clutch for the RS5F31A if you're interested and don't plan on sourcing an RS5F50A conversion any time soon.

Yeah, listened to a friend of mine and cut a hole in the axle portion to get the axle out more easily. Dumb move and I thought it might be at the time but oh well. If I don't need that portion though, the rest is relatively good, once bent flat lol.
Thanks!

Can the transmission even hold that much power? Everything online suggests it's the biggest weak point..

To my knowledge the weak point is 5th gear. And what happens with it is the engagement teeth on the shift collar are too short so once they get worn down a bit it won't hold itself in gear. The RS5F31A is definitely less robust than the 50A, but the 50A can hold tremendous amounts of power. Upwards of 400whp. Idk where the failing point of the 31A is, but I ran a DET spiking to 12psi on one and beat the crap out of it without issue. But I'm not sure how long it'd last. But it can certainly handle any DE with a strong clutch behind it.

Sell that exhaust side valve cover to me, please. Or trade me for an RWD one.
I have been looking for a FWD exhaust side valve cover for months now, haha.

Matej wrote:Sell that exhaust side valve cover to me, please. Or trade me for an RWD one.
I have been looking for a FWD exhaust side valve cover for months now, haha.

I've got one, or a couple, lol. PM me.

Wow, totally missed these replies! OKay mdb pm sent!

Has anyone run external fuel pumps on one of these? Stock fuel pump specs (courtesy of RockAuto) seem to put it somewhere in the range of 45gph ISH with 65ish psi needed? That sounds like really high pressure to me. I would be looking at getting something like an Airtex E8248 but would like to be able to run something cheaper / something I can get in a junkyard. Any recommendations?
Doug


EDIT: Found (finally) in the service manual that the FPR maintains 36.3 PSI. I'm still looking for recommendations for external pumps that could do, but I'm much happier with that number.

That pump should be plenty, even for a low boost CA. You should be fine NA. The FPR will take care of your fuel pressure. The main line pump pressure actually sounds low to me. It's my understanding that most port injected motors have upwards of 90psi of main line pressure. But as long as the line pressure is greater than the rail pressure you should be fine.

If anything, just find a universal Bosch inline pump. Or some other brand of your choice

Pressure doesn't dictate pump size alone. It's pressure vs. fuel flow. The higher the pressure, the less flow a pump can create. So you need a pump that's capable of creating the flow you need at the pressure the system will create. The system pressure is dictated by the fuel pressure regulator. The fuel pressure regulator sets the pressure at a fixed amount ABOVE THE MANIFOLD PRESSURE!!! This is important. Example; A stock CA FPR sets the pressure at 36.3 psi ABOVE REFERENCE (the little port on top. It only creates 36.3psi of pressure in the system when at atmospheric pressure. Once the engine is running, the fuel pressure changes. In vacuum, the pressure drops to below 36.3psi, but is still 36.3psi above whatever the pressure inside the manifold is. When in boost, the fuel pressure is 36.3psi + whatever your boost pressure is. This is when fuel pump sizing is important. If you're running 30psi of boost, and the fuel pressure is set to 36.3psi, the pump will have to be able to create 66.3psi of pressure AND flow enough fuel to supply the injectors with the fuel they need. If it can't do that, then the fuel pressure will fall off.

So the question is, what is your power level you're looking for, and what PSI of boost do you plan on running?

For now I'll be running no boost but I may eventually try some for a little more fun. Trying to find the right balance of flow rate and pressure is why I came here for help! I figure it's better to err on the side of a little too much flow (as compared to stock) than too little so I'll go with a nice hefty used pump if I can find uit, or the airtex I mentioned above if I can't. If I have to upgrade a year or more in the future for boost then I'll keep your info in mind, because that's something I hadn't thought about! Always new things to be learned. Thanks!
Doug

Well, since my last post (that I didn't post on Nico) I drained some oil and found it still clear so have come to the conclusion that the headgasket isn't blown and I probably just got some condensation on the oil filler cap. Have put about 600 more miles on it and pushed it hard, too. Got 45 mpgs on my last trip so I'm more than a little happy with that!
Recently carried 120 pounds of cast iron home and is currently serving as portable storage to my Craigslist toolbox until I can get it moved home December 12th. Counting down 11 days and about 550 miles until the engine comes out!

PS* If anyone is looking for the shell of a Pulsar NX for a fun project to make a race car out of, mine will be for sale as soon as I get the electrical that I need out (leaving the body harness as much as possible) for dirt cheap cause I need it gone!





Back with updates soon
Doug

Good progress so far today. Taking a break for dinner now
Got the car on Jack stands at 11:30. Took a lunch break from about 12:30-1.
Had a friend come by and help out 3:30-4:30, when I took the last pics and came in. Just about all that's left to do is remove the CV axles and hook up the hoist!
Parts car is here as well now and I'll start pulling the wiring tomorrow. On to my very few pics. I'll have more at the end of the night when I have the engine out!





Doug

Got the engine out this afternoon. had some hangups with the exhaust and the shift linkage, but the angle grinder and a cutting disc helped me out there
Got the engine bay wiped down/ degreased some and we've started splitting open the sheathing on both cars. Happy with today's progress but we've got a looong way to go. Big shout out to my friends Sean and Blake for helping make this possible.









More to come. Stay Tuned.
Doug

Always good to have a friend or two when it comes to engine swaps. Any plans for engine bay respray?