A less expensive source for trailing arms and other stuff

[Chuck Tribolet]

I was chasing a new master cylinder for my 'vette, and the folks on CorvetteForum.com turned me on to RockAuto.com.
They have non-Nissan (Dorman) rear trailing links for about $48. I've no idea what the quality is. Anybody tried these?

BTW, they have the easiest to navigate parts catalog I've dealt with.


Chuck

[Towncivilian]

Rock Auto has very competitive prices. If you order anything at all, be sure to use a 5% off discount code. It's not much, but it's all they offer and certainly better than nothing; it might cover the cost of shipping.

I also noticed those trailing arms, but haven't a clue on their quality.

[CanuckQx4]

Fantastic site, I use them all the time for odds and ends.

I just bought new inner fender wells which are huge pieces of plastic, for like $11 each just last week

They carry alot of each part and brands names for each. Beck /Arnley seems to be the best quality for the money Ive found

[Camelfilter]

...RockAuto.com. They have non-Nissan (Dorman) rear trailing links for about $48. I've no idea what the quality is. Anybody tried these? ...

I'd be really interested to know as well. I have been thinking about buying some split bushings from 4x4.com and just replaceing the bushings. Seems a goodly sized job without a press/torch to get the old ones out.

From Rock-auto (there photo) looks like the bushings are already installed-nice!

[CanuckQx4]

Never torch out old bushings, thats a mess. Its very easy to get the old bushing out by simply drilling 10-15 holes in the rubber around the sleeve, the drill goes through no problems, then you push the sleeve out with your fingers since the drilled holes got rid of all the rubber. Then sawzall/jigsaw a slit in the bushings collar and pop it out EASILY with a flat head and a hammer.

I would definetely do the poly bushings, they last forever, and the hardest part of the trailling arm job is just undoing the bolts. And you have to do that whether you replace the whole arm or just the bushing anyways.

[Chuck Tribolet]

You can probably use a bench vise to press in the new rubber bushings., but you'll need to fabricate something that pushes
on the outer metal part. Often an appropriate piece of plumbing works.


Chuck

[Camelfilter]

You can probably use a bench vise to press in the new rubber bushings., but you'll need to fabricate something that pushes
on the outer metal part. Often an appropriate piece of plumbing works.


Chuck

That's a good idea. Thanks!

Unfortunately do to the joys of apartment living, my workspace and tool selection are limited (no bench vice, no air tools, garage is too small to have Pathy inside & work on it at the same time...).

I do have a decent set of hand tools, jacks and stands. My knowledge is getting better along with the ability to do some of the work-huge thanks to folks here as well as over at NPORA.

[Chuck Tribolet]

The first six years out of college I lived in a small one-bedroom apartment. I put a work bench, and good-sized 220V
compressor in the closet. While I waiting for my first house to close, I built the workbenches for the new garage in the
living room. I still have those workbenches and the compressor.

[congotran]

just replaced my bushing in the rear and founda bent trailing arm tried this and it was as good as factory great buy trust me rear end never sat better and never drove better

[carnal_c30]

I've had less than stellar experience with rockauto.

Actually I've had a few nightmares with them. In one order i received an incorrect power steering high pressure line, incorrect control arms. then in another order I received incorrect sway bar links.

Also the I was disappointed with the quality of many of the products, especially the control arms. Many of the products sold by US brands like Raybestos, Dorman etc are sourced from China. I generally don't like parts from China, but in the case of the control arms I definitely saw quality deficiencies in the rubber bushings.

Just my 10 cents on rockauto, cheap yes, but not without hassles

[02psyhcopathy]

I was chasing a new master cylinder for my 'vette, and the folks on CorvetteForum.com turned me on to RockAuto.com.
They have non-Nissan (Dorman) rear trailing links for about $48. I've no idea what the quality is. Anybody tried these?

BTW, they have the easiest to navigate parts catalog I've dealt with.

I actually just spent 4 and a half hours yesterday tearing apart my rear end and replacing my trailing arms, both upper and lower, with dorman trailing arms. I ordered mine off Partsgeek.com and they were about the same price. ( for all 4 and KYB gas adjust shock i was 302.58). The quality of the dorman trialing arms doesn't seem to be anything above and beyond the manufacturers or any less quality. I have only had them installed for about 12 hours now but the difference is definite. And as far as money saving, a local shop wanted $1200 to do the job and it cost me only $360, because i bought all new blots and washers from nissan, as i expected from reading on other threads that breaking or cutting bolts was common.(mine came off with just a 36" breaker and a 6 ton jack and i didn't break any bolts or need to cut any off.)

So from just the looks i think Dorman trailing arms are equal to the factory parts, but i have no idea as to the long term.


They also had the cheapest K&N CAI i could find so they are very competitive.

[cbogartjr]

OK...here's my story on trailing arms. I am hoping someone has an answer. My 2002 QX4 started the death roll at 95K miles. Didn't look like a big deal to change the trailing arms. So, I purchased a set of Dorman arms from Rockauto. I have purchased many items from them over the years. I also bought a set of KYB shocks. I completed the installation of both. Within a month the death roll started again. This time I replaced the upper arms and the panhard rod. Seemed to fix things...for a few months and about 1500 miles. Death roll again. This time a took it to Nissan. They told me the lower trail arms were bad. They couldn't understand why,because the arms and bolts looked new. Oh, I purchased new bolts also, prior to the installation. Got hold of Rockauto and obtained a replacement set of lower trailing arms. I installed these and no more death roll, or so I thought. Six months later and less then 5k miles later the death roll is back. I have contacted Rockauto and they will return my money. My problem is I may keep them and install the Urathane bushings. Any thoughts as to what else could be causing this to occure? What am I doing wrong? Thanks for the help....

[Chuck Tribolet]

My original arms lasted 130K miles. The next two sets half of that. That leads me to believe that something else is
getting tired, and causing stress on the arm bushings due to greater travel. The suspects (don't you just hate term
"person of interest"?):

Springs. Unlikely. When springs get tired, they get shorter, but the spring rate doesn't change. So when I put the new
bushings in, and torqued them down under load, the travel should have been the same.

Shocks: Maybe. I still have my originals, and they pass the bounce test at 210,000 miles.


Chuck

[cbogartjr]

I see Moog makes split polyurethane trailing arm bushings. They are $185.00 for a complete set (all 4 arms). I know Moog makes very good suspension parts. It appears the bushings are split for ease of installation. Has anyone tried these? I am considering purchasing a set. Polyurethane sounds good. Maybe they can be installed without a press. Interested in your thoughts...

[Chuck Tribolet]

I installed the poly bushings from 4x4 parts. I used a vise to push them in, I suspect they would have gone in with just a block of wood and a hammer.

[cbogartjr]

Hi Chuck, how did you remove the old bushings?h

[Chuck Tribolet]

See how-to-for-replacing-the-rear-suspensio ... 36232.html

Chuck

[04Chinook]

I see Moog makes split polyurethane trailing arm bushings. They are $185.00 for a complete set (all 4 arms). I know Moog makes very good suspension parts. It appears the bushings are split for ease of installation. Has anyone tried these? I am considering purchasing a set. Polyurethane sounds good. Maybe they can be installed without a press. Interested in your thoughts...

Where can you buy these?

[Chuck Tribolet]

I'm pretty sure the Moogs are on rockauto.com. I got mine from 4x4parts.com and are probably their in-house band.

Note that you will need new bolts and nuts.


Chuck

[cbogartjr]

I see Moog makes split polyurethane trailing arm bushings. They are $185.00 for a complete set (all 4 arms). I know Moog makes very good suspension parts. It appears the bushings are split for ease of installation. Has anyone tried these? I am considering purchasing a set. Polyurethane sounds good. Maybe they can be installed without a press. Interested in your thoughts...

Where can you buy these?

I saw them on 4x4.com

[Chuck Tribolet]

Are you sure the ones at 4x4parts are Moog? I bought from 4x4parts, and they didn't say anything and I came away with the impression they
were a house brand.

Chuck

[04Chinook]

Are you sure the ones at 4x4parts are Moog? I bought from 4x4parts, and they didn't say anything and I came away with the impression they
were a house brand.

Chuck

I was wondering the same thing. I wish there was another option other than 4x4parts. Their shipping rates to Canada are insane!

[cbogartjr]

Hi, I have finished replacing all eight bushings. Wasn't too hard. I used a 1 3/4" hole saw. I also used a heavy duty electric drill. This seemed better and less smelly then heating the bushings and melting them. It took me about 40 mins. to cut out all 8 bushing rubber centers. Then I carefully cut the metal portion. Installing the 8 new Moog bushings proved too difficult. I took the trail arms to my service guy. He had press and only charged me $80. Install the trail arms. Rear is very tight. Hope these bushings last more then 3000 miles. Of the 8 bushings that were removed, 6 had significant cracks. Try the drill next time you replace the bushings. I think you'll find this works well.

[Chuck Tribolet]

Were the Moog bushings metal and rubber like the factory bushings? Or Polyurithane?

Chuck

[cbogartjr]

Got them from Rockauto and they are labeled Moog Polyurithane. The material seems harder.

[Chuck Tribolet]

My 4x4 parts poly bushings pressed right with my bench vise, but I think I could have pushed them in by hand.

Chuck

[cbogartjr]

My bushings had a metal sleeve around the poly, making it very hard to to push the unit into the arm.

[mateen110]

Stay away from moog bushings. They're rubber and same quality as OEM (look the same, probably not as good). Get polyurethane ones instead!

[carnal_c30]

My OEMs have lasted 170k miles, if MOOG is the same as OEM then thats no negative for them!
I have been noticing more MOOG parts coming from China, I put in two new MOOG premium ball joints on my Infiniti I30 and had one fail within 10000 miles, and the other is going bad now.

With polyurethane parts beware that if they are not lubricated they can destroy themselves pretty quickly.