a gt2860 to my ka24de questions plz help?

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silvia_twiceo
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Hi yeah newb first post. So I. Need help with my set up I don't want to install it yet without knowing what more do I need of if I will be ok. Any help is welcomed and appreciated.
I have a stock ka24de in my s13 stock maf stock ignition stock ecu and stock fuel components.
I have a gt28 turbo .64ar
I have a front mount ic
I have a greddy bov to atmosphere(will it be a problem?)
I have the stock sr downpipe and 2 3/4 exhaust with a cat(I know)
Will this setup be good for 6 psi with 17 base timming? Will I need a fmu 8.1 or 10.1 is it reliable? I'm not power hungry yet lol. Will the injectors suffice? Will the fuel pump keep up with the fmu I need? A friend told me that 6 psi will be easy on the stock components and not to upgrade a thing untill I go higher boost.I'm skeptical is he wrong? :ohno:


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s13drifter88
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alot of people of people debate back and forth on the fmu. i see no problem with it but have other methods that i prefer. a set of deatschwerks 550's and either and rs enthalpy or jim wolf rom tune would more than suffice for your build. as far as your maf goes, ditch it. its good to about 200whp or a little more. z32tt maf is the way to go. the stock fuel pump will fail about the same time as the stock maf so Id deff step it up as well with a z32 fuel filter. why dont u just get one of the many 3" downpipes that are readily available for a ka-t. a 3" will flow much much better than a stock sr 2" downpipe. save up and get a whole ebay 3" exhaust (downpipe, cat delete/high flow cat, and catback). theyre cheap, they work fine and theyll flow all you need. pick up some 550's, walbro 255 fuel pump, the z32tt maf and a rom tune and that set up should see you thru to about 300whp-ish safely, all day, every day.

silvia_twiceo
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Yeah I get ur point and have been reading many post. They are not specific and it seems everyone builds their block and then gets rom tune or jim wolf ecu. Now I'm stock and would like to c boost 5 pounds or maybe 6. Do I really need a rom tune for that stock boost level? And I have a 300zx tt fuel filter and manual boost controller too I don't want to turn up boost to I upgrade a couple of things. Thanks for ur advice in advanced. :bigthumb:

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s13drifter88
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the base boost from that turbo should be 8psi so you cant go any lower that that. Most people that do an fmu setup that ive seen are using t25 turbo's with the stock injectors. The t25 only flows about 22lbs/min of air. you have a 2860, that turbo flows 36lbs/min of air so youre going to need fuel. a 6:1fmu would not be enough and an 8:1 would prob make you run really rich. thats why I recommend a romtune. you should pick a set of 550cc injectors and the z32tt maf since it has more resolution than your stock maf. you'll need the romtune to so the ecu can be setup to run with the larger hardware (injectors and maf) and your fuel and timing tables can be corrected for the increase in fuel and the addition of boost.

silvia_twiceo
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Ok thanks now I c wat u mean. So I gues ill just uprade my set up then pit it on. Is the bov a problem vented to the air? Is the stock fuel rail good for the 550 cc injectors or wats its limit?would I need to upgrade anything else in the ignition besides spark plugs at 8 psi? Thanks for your help and advice seems everyone else just likes to read but not post.

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BOV to atmosphere is a problem if you have a draw through setup, not if its blow through.

Stock rail is fine for 550, but would need 550s that fit (would need to be side feed). Would probably want a fuel pressure regulator and gauge.

Plugs should be the only thing need (besides timing, either manually or tuned).

silvia_twiceo
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Thanks for new info. so if I run the 300zx maf I could vent the bov right? And is there an advantage of top feed vs side feed injetors and fuel rail? I just bought a vlsd too of a j30 six bolt. Will it make my 0 to 100 time faster since both wheels turn or lock? Is there any disadvantages of running the vlsd vs running the stock open diff?

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biggie
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Depends on where you run the MAF (not what MAF it is). If you run the MAF near the TB, then BOV is on hot pipe and can be vented to Atmosphere.

No real advantage of side vs top feed, usually more selection of top feed, but have to have a new rail for them.

VLSD will help launch it is better than open diff since it keeps one wheel from spinning.

You need to do a lot more research.

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s13drifter88
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get a set deatschwerks 550's. they drop right in. the stock rail is fine for 550's. i would only be concerened with it if i was trying to feed a set of 1000s or bigger. I love my vlsd. they drive a whole lot better than a welded or a stock open. open tried to spin every time i made boost and didnt hook for sh*t. welded was a little better for not spinning at the line but i hated the tire noise, lurching when turning and short tire life.

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I'm doing research and trying to look at kat.org and silvia but most people are generic not specific. I apreciate your help. That's is wat I was planing to do with the maf. I was just asking cause it seems like a lot of people shim their vlsd to a 1.5. I just thought the stock vlsd would waste more gas or enertia since its power is being transfered to two wheels instead of one. Or am I wrong is it using the inertia in a more productive way wasting less gas or putting less stress on the drivetrain?

silvia_twiceo
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I have googled it searched and still can't find an answer. Let me know if it should be a new post. Since I. Converted my hatch from single cam to twin cam my rpm gauge won't work. Yeah just get a twin cam rpm gauge and screw the 3 screws ok done and nothing. I hooked up the wires and solder them to the dash harnes plug.(next to glove compartment) my question is how does the gauge get the signal? I hear its from the ecu and the ecu gets it from were? Some people say distributor some say coil and resistor a guy even told me tps does anyone know the whole operation or circuit. Stock ka24de no rb no sr no 1 or 2j. Thanks I'm dd with no rpm readings :(

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s13drifter88
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theoretically on open diff would give you better gas milage since the engine is only required to transfer the majority of its energy to one wheel primarily. in a viscous its a centrifugal effect. the more power you apply to it the more the differential begins "lock up" and rotate both wheels but its still technically driving them both but, like an open, its primarily transfering more power to one wheel over another but in at more of an even ratio. think of it like this. open would be like 90%-10% and viscous would be 60%-40%. thats not an exact ratio but you get the idea

silvia_twiceo
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Ok I get it thanks for clearing that up. Is it really worth shiming the vlsd to near a 1.5 or is it ok as it is? I don't want to use it for heavy drifting or killing it every chance I get that's y I don't want a 2.0 or a welded diff. And it id my dd but I have a back up lol. Turbo wise will you hook beter with a vlsd or a shimed one. I know 2.0 or welded but I don't want to change and buy tires like that.

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s13drifter88
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I love my vlsd and I use it as it came out of the J30. I havent done anything to it other than swap the cover plate so it'll bolt up into an s13. j30's have a 2 bolt cover plate so when you swap it you have to use the stock s13 cover plate since its a 4 bolt. you'll ned 2qts of 80w90 gear lube (I like valvoline) and a tube of black RTV. Make sure you get the axles with it too. Some J30's are triangle 6 bolt patern and will work with your stock axles but the majority of them are a pentagon 5 bolt so youll need to swap them if its a 5 bolt.

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Thanks I'm going to install it next month.good looking out. So id it beter at launching or are the 1/4 times beter too? Vs open diff?

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s13drifter88
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Vlsd would give you a better launch and a better 1/4mi time

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I would use a 6:1 FMU along with the base timing retard. You're going to need a new fuel pump regardless, the stock S13 pump is garbage imho. I'd suggest a 255lph pump, they can be found all over the web for about $100.

That combo will be very reliable and about as cheap as you can go.

If you have the money, I'd suggest a 72lb injector, Z32 MAF combo from Enthalpy. That way you'll have room to grow but it will perform just as good as any other tune. Someday you may want to swap out that 2860 with something bigger, might as well have everything ready ahead of time.

WD

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slikklogic
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Yeeaa I shimmed my vlsd before I put it in my s14.I put a .8 oem shim on it and now it acts locked like a 2way wasn't the orginal idea but its better then its overheating and not working like I've heard of..it did improve drag times because I ran it both ways open and lsd..stock ka24de I dumped it at 5500rpm jus chirped..215 street tires..

silvia_twiceo
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So I could do 8 psi with a walbro and 6.1 fmu. With 16 base timing and not blow the block? I get pros and cons here and there. Would it be better to get a smaller turbo just to boost at 5 psi without blowing anything? Say a t25 then not to mes with ecu and injectors and maf? when I get more parts to support the gt28 switch? Thanks to the few that post and not just read.

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I would never run a T25...ever. The 2860 is the smallest turbo I'd use only because the compressor is pretty efficient. My biggest dislike for the gt turbo's is the price, but that's all my opinion. If you want to rock a turbo that will have almost no lag and your goals are under 300hp, you have the $$ spend, then by all means don't let anyone talk you out of a good plan.

I will always want to run 20 psi or so and do it efficiently. Once you run a lot of boost, it's hard to go back. Kind of like making the switch from dial-up :chuckle:

silvia_twiceo
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Ok you make sence but I want to c some boost without buying injectors ecu tune and maf. Yeah it will be a set up of less that 270 hp but I just want to boost safe and stock. Later when I get all the other supporting mods then I could slap on my gt. I have too many projects and not mommys or dadys check card to buy and support all thede projects. So for now I just want to see some boost b4 I sell the ka24de and upgrade to a 1j. Thanks for your help.

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slikklogic
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silvia_twiceo wrote:Ok you make sence but I want to c some boost without buying injectors ecu tune and maf. Yeah it will be a set up of less that 270 hp but I just want to boost safe and stock. Later when I get all the other supporting mods then I could slap on my gt. I have too many projects and not mommys or dadys check card to buy and support all thede projects. So for now I just want to see some boost b4 I sell the ka24de and upgrade to a 1j. Thanks for your help.
then u wana blow up your motor lol. stock ka injectors stop makeing power at about 180 hp i think and maf stops reading around the same. anymore power then that pop goes ur rings
ive blown hondas not tuning it right even on 7psi.and that was with 450cc injectors. right now im boosting my ka24de too. but i got a n60 maf, a tune, 255 fuel pump and 370cc sr20 injectors.and still need a clutch to handle it or disc could blow.( did that with hondas too).all this jus to make 270whp on a t28..

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Ok then ill hold off on project turbo. Don't want to blow up the de engine. And I. Was wondering wll a ka stock set up run rich with a walbro. No turbo no piggy back. Just in case my pump goes out and I need to uprgade I know. Just curious.

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s13drifter88
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the maf/injector/rom tune is a tried and true method. i juast walked a guy thru his who turbo project on here. he hit a few bumbs here and there but nothing we couldnt figure out in a few moments. last msg he sent me said it ran awesome. i like the t28/550's/n62/rom setup myself. it wont yeild you stupid power but the spool is retarded quick it makes for such a fun reliable car. a 270-280whp s13 is a blast and the t28 can do that. if you do want more power later try looking at a td05 20g from forced performance with a tial 38 wastegate. theyre about 550 brand new and will do 400whp while still retaining good response. ive said this before but im a big 2871r or 20g man. 2871 spools a little faster and 20g pulls so hard on top. Note: gt2871r = pricey

silvia_twiceo
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Would 550cc injectors and a z32 maf with. Enthalphy tune and walbro fuel pump be a good combination fo my gt28 turbo? Wat kind of hp would I be looking at?

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s13drifter88
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gt28, 280ish. it would be a terror man, the spool, torque surge and quick power of that setup will blow your mind

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Did the 20G come factory on anything?

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slikklogic
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silvia_twiceo wrote:Ok then ill hold off on project turbo. Don't want to blow up the de engine. And I. Was wondering wll a ka stock set up run rich with a walbro. No turbo no piggy back. Just in case my pump goes out and I need to uprgade I know. Just curious.
Nah u will be fine as long as u got stock fuel pressure set on it. I haven't installed the turbo yet but I got the fuel pump,injectors, maf and a enthalpy tune running on it..picked up alil top end lol but car runs fine..I'm in the middle of testing fuel econ milage with the new set up

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s13drifter88
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i dont think the 20G came on anything. A friend of mine told me it was developed by MHI for their rally cars but I honestly dont kno. Im actually thinking of getting one for my CA18 tho


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