A few things that bug me about my Z32

[E_Cruz1989]

Instead of making a thread for each issue I am currently facing with my Z32, I am going to combine them in one thread. Thank you!

Problem #1: My Z32 ran fine for a RWD season, come the next season after sitting all winter, I was driving it normally to the movie theater when I heard a pop and acceleration cut down immeadiately. The misfire was clearly audible as I limped it back to a repairshop and threw it on their computer. Bad fuel injectors/harness. So, I replaced the two bad injectors, was good for a month, then same problem. But there's a twist, my acceleration is completely dead through 2-3, 4th it gets up to 35mph. Could something else be wrong now? I know I have to take it back to the computer, but I figure I'd try to kill a few birds here with this stone. Anyone know where to get fuel injectors and possibly a new harness, or just the plugs themselves on the cheap? $80 a pop for an injector is murder, top that with $90 a pop for coils..oy.

Problem #2: Sometimes the car doesn't like to shift, period. I'll have to pump the clutch a few times to get it into any gear. Now, common sense says the fluid may be low or damn near empty, I'm at a loss because their's no clutch fluid resevoir, but the break fluid resevoir is nearly full. I got lucky with this car, eventhough it's a rebuilt, it doesn't leak any fluid or smoke, and everything that I find necessary works. Anyways, besides doing a transmission fluid change, am I going to need a new clutch? Or do some gear repair/replace work?

Problem #3: This might sound like a really stupid problem, but it's been a gremlin since day 1 of buying this car back in Sept. 08, the damn windshield wiper fluid doesn't spray out for shizzle. I have gotten the rear to work a few times, but the fronts never do. I have, to my best knowledge, replaced or connected fluid lines, but I am still getting a puddle of fluid when I try the front wipers. Are there hidden lines somewhere?

P.S.: Any of you know of a reputable engine/transmission supplier online that stocks Z32 gear? I may just weigh my options and order a new block and transmission and swap them, because it looks as though I may be keeping my Z32 instead of getting a Z33, and I'd like a functioning gremlin free summer roadster.

Thanks again for any and all support!!

[robomatic12]

Problem #1:
-Few things to check here, how does it idle? Have you performed a power balance test (pull each coil connector off and see if rpm drops, if pulling one does not drop rpm you have a dead cylinder), boost leak (if you are turbo), you can read the computer codes yourself (basically remove the passenger floormat, wooden coverplate, turn ign to on but not start, turn the little dial on the side of the ecu to clockwise hold for 2 seconds then turn back counterclockwise, the lights will begin to flash a number, do a search for pulling 300zx ECU codes, theres tons of guides), Check ALL connections under the hood for corrosion (green buildup take it off with electrical connector cleaner and files/picks and put it back together with electrical grease). Coils dont go bad very often and swapping them to another cylinder can help you eliminate them from your problem.

Problem #2:

-There is a clutch resivoir and it should be right next to your brake resivoir, smaller in size but still there. Take a pic of your engine bay and I'll circle it for you. The clutch system probably got air in it from getting low on fluid and needs to be bled. Do the gears grind? Or just not want to engage?

Problem #3:

-Try poking into the little nozzles with a small tiny pin, clean out the corrosion inside of them.

[E_Cruz1989]

I'll try the stuff you mentioned for problems 2 and 3, I'll leave problem 1 to my mechanic lol. I'm getting new injectors and a harness here shortly so maybe that'll take care of if not all, a quarter of that problem. For problem 2, I'll take a look for that clutch resevoir, it must be damn tiny though lol and the gears do not grind at all, just don't like to engage at times.

EDIT: Ok lol I'm officially retarded and a bad car owner if I could not see that resevoir. I checked it, the fluid is at the MAX level so...

[robomatic12]

I'll try the stuff you mentioned for problems 2 and 3, I'll leave problem 1 to my mechanic lol. I'm getting new injectors and a harness here shortly so maybe that'll take care of if not all, a quarter of that problem. For problem 2, I'll take a look for that clutch resevoir, it must be damn tiny though lol and the gears do not grind at all, just don't like to engage at times.

EDIT: Ok lol I'm officially retarded and a bad car owner if I could not see that resevoir. I checked it, the fluid is at the MAX level so...

Do you know how to bleed the clutch fluid? There are two bleed nipples one underneath on the slave cylinder and one on your fender inside the engine bay.

Where does your clutch engage at on the pedal? Near the floor? Does it slip if you put it into a high gear (4th or 5th) and floor it. The rpms will jump with no increase in speed if its slipping.

[E_Cruz1989]

I'll try the stuff you mentioned for problems 2 and 3, I'll leave problem 1 to my mechanic lol. I'm getting new injectors and a harness here shortly so maybe that'll take care of if not all, a quarter of that problem. For problem 2, I'll take a look for that clutch resevoir, it must be damn tiny though lol and the gears do not grind at all, just don't like to engage at times.

EDIT: Ok lol I'm officially retarded and a bad car owner if I could not see that resevoir. I checked it, the fluid is at the MAX level so...

Do you know how to bleed the clutch fluid? There are two bleed nipples one underneath on the slave cylinder and one on your fender inside the engine bay.

Where does your clutch engage at on the pedal? Near the floor? Does it slip if you put it into a high gear (4th or 5th) and floor it. The rpms will jump with no increase in speed if its slipping.

I've never bled a clutch, just brakes, but I'm guessing it's along the same lines. It engages on the floor, and are you asking if when I do this, I'm already at speed? (60) or from start? Because with my current problem with the fuel injectors if I floor it in 4th I really don't get up and go, barely 40mph.

[robomatic12]

About the clutch, that most likely means if the pedal is on the floor that your clutch is gone. Sorry and yeah you do that test while at speed like lets say normal city cruising speed, pop it into a high gear and try to floor it. Watch for an RPM jump with no noticible speed jump.

I'd really suggest performing a power balance test by unplugging coil plugs with the engine running to see if you can find one or more dead cylinders. That will narrow down your injector problem. The RPM should drop when you unplug a coilpack, if it does not that cylinder isn' t firing.

[E_Cruz1989]

About the clutch, that most likely means if the pedal is on the floor that your clutch is gone. Sorry and yeah you do that test while at speed like lets say normal city cruising speed, pop it into a high gear and try to floor it. Watch for an RPM jump with no noticible speed jump.

I'd really suggest performing a power balance test by unplugging coil plugs with the engine running to see if you can find one or more dead cylinders. That will narrow down your injector problem. The RPM should drop when you unplug a coilpack, if it does not that cylinder isn' t firing.

I'll do that in the morning, eventhough I do believe my mechanic has already done this but he was unable to notice anything. And damn be all if the clutch is gone, sigh. One thing at a time I suppose.

[E_Cruz1989]

Today I went out and did some work on my Z. I got my washer sprayers to actually do what they were supposed to. Simple thing as cleaning out the nozzles oh well lol. Second thing I did was replace the bulb in my passenger foglight, PITA if you ask me. At least for my first time having to do so.

Third thing I did, which I am really pleased with myself, I got my car to actually run right. Don't know how I did it, all I did was unplug injector 1, let it reset, plugged it back in, and repeated with injectors 2-6. Maybe the ECU was able to reset the fuel mapping and make a better compromise with my worn out injectors? Who knows, but the car performed remarkably(sp?) I took it out on my road and did a few passes to the end of the block and back, peeled out in 1st, dropped it into second and launched at 40mph, keep in mind that she couldn't do more than 25mph two weeks ago. -shrugs- Still going to buy a set of well-cared for injectors and a harness just to have them available, but I feel accomplished today and have fallen back in my love with my Z-stress.

[E_Cruz1989]

Well, took the Z-stress out for a second run today, still pretty impressed with the results. The acceleration is there under 2nd and 3rd, but I believe there's still more to be had. After bringing it back home once it was warmed up, I sat in my driveway and just let it idle. It idles at 900 and rocks like a cradle lol. Maybe it could be that it's almost out of gas and running on two year old fuel fumes, but...

[robomatic12]

Could be... or most likely it's still not running properly and is unbalanced especially at idle. Check all connectors for corrosion, injectors and coil pack connectors. Do a search for IACV adjustment, basically you unplug the IACV, adjust the idle to whatever the hood sticker says like (750rpm +/- 50) and plug it back in. It might be worthwhile to clean out your throttle bodies with tb cleaner and a toothbrush. The engine rocking could also be wornout engine mounts/transmission mount. I know when I went to first buy my Z it was running like junk with old stale fule.

[E_Cruz1989]

Could be... or most likely it's still not running properly and is unbalanced especially at idle. Check all connectors for corrosion, injectors and coil pack connectors. Do a search for IACV adjustment, basically you unplug the IACV, adjust the idle to whatever the hood sticker says like (750rpm +/- 50) and plug it back in. It might be worthwhile to clean out your throttle bodies with tb cleaner and a toothbrush. The engine rocking could also be wornout engine mounts/transmission mount. I know when I went to first buy my Z it was running like junk with old stale fule.

Seems all I'm doing is cleaning stuff on this car lol. Oh well, it needs it I'm sure. I'll give it a go when the sun comes up in a few hours. If the mounts are bad, which I'm sure they are, where can I get them for a decent price? Should I stick to OEM if I'm just going as far as basic bolt-ons? Also, if I were to buy TT injectors, harness, and fuel-rails, would they mate right up to the N/A block without any thrown codes? Or would I be taking a risk?

[E_Cruz1989]

Could be... or most likely it's still not running properly and is unbalanced especially at idle. Check all connectors for corrosion, injectors and coil pack connectors. Do a search for IACV adjustment, basically you unplug the IACV, adjust the idle to whatever the hood sticker says like (750rpm +/- 50) and plug it back in. It might be worthwhile to clean out your throttle bodies with tb cleaner and a toothbrush. The engine rocking could also be wornout engine mounts/transmission mount. I know when I went to first buy my Z it was running like junk with old stale fule.

I cleaned some corrosion off of my IACV connector, wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be. I also adjusted my idle to around 600-750. The car is almost purring and not so shakey anymore. I'm waiting for my dad to bring me a gas can so I can go put some fresh gas in it and continue some tunning, also going to do the tb cleaning. I checked the coil plugs and injector plugs, my mechanic already cleaned and greased them.

[E_Cruz1989]

Today I did some more cleaning. I bought some CRC electric cleaner and throttle body cleaner and went to town. Damn my TB's were filthy. Yuck. I cleaned as many electric connectors that I could visibly see and had access too. The car runs a lot better now, but I can still feel missfire, barely noticeable unless you actually listen for it. Phew, some of those connectors were green lol now they're shiny gold or silver. Now for the bad news, broke my f*** ABS plastic MAF/Filter adapter, had to go to O'Rielys and buy the 240sx ss adapter, which my dad is going to have to modify to mate to the 300zx MAF. Oh well. Basically the car is in driving condition, no smoke, no liquid drips of any kind, just waiting for my injectors and harness.

[robomatic12]

Could be... or most likely it's still not running properly and is unbalanced especially at idle. Check all connectors for corrosion, injectors and coil pack connectors. Do a search for IACV adjustment, basically you unplug the IACV, adjust the idle to whatever the hood sticker says like (750rpm +/- 50) and plug it back in. It might be worthwhile to clean out your throttle bodies with tb cleaner and a toothbrush. The engine rocking could also be wornout engine mounts/transmission mount. I know when I went to first buy my Z it was running like junk with old stale fule.

Seems all I'm doing is cleaning stuff on this car lol. Oh well, it needs it I'm sure. I'll give it a go when the sun comes up in a few hours. If the mounts are bad, which I'm sure they are, where can I get them for a decent price? Should I stick to OEM if I'm just going as far as basic bolt-ons? Also, if I were to buy TT injectors, harness, and fuel-rails, would they mate right up to the N/A block without any thrown codes? Or would I be taking a risk?

I would stick with OEM mounts if you are just NA and not trying to go for a super stiff drivetrain which induces alot more vibration into the cabin.

As for the TT stuff, why would you want to go for that? You will just run rich as your NA ecu will have no idea how to handle the TT injectors and it will run even more poorly. The harness on the otherhand is exactly the same with the exception that the TT harness has connections for factory boost solenoids but does no harm to have them unplugged/not used.

[robomatic12]

Today I did some more cleaning. I bought some CRC electric cleaner and throttle body cleaner and went to town. Damn my TB's were filthy. Yuck. I cleaned as many electric connectors that I could visibly see and had access too. The car runs a lot better now, but I can still feel missfire, barely noticeable unless you actually listen for it. Phew, some of those connectors were green lol now they're shiny gold or silver. Now for the bad news, broke my f*** ABS plastic MAF/Filter adapter, had to go to O'Rielys and buy the 240sx ss adapter, which my dad is going to have to modify to mate to the 300zx MAF. Oh well. Basically the car is in driving condition, no smoke, no liquid drips of any kind, just waiting for my injectors and harness.

Good to hear the cleaning helped! If you are still misfiring then I would definetely suggest getting some new gas in it like you said. Have you done the o2 sensor test via the ecu yet? A quick search on google for "300zx o2 sensor diagnostic" should find you a nice tutorial on making sure the o2 sensors are working properly. They get lazy over time. Do all your electrical connectors still have their metal clips and not broken? If they are broken or missing the clip then can have an intermittent connection causing a slight misfire. Another huge thing to check for is to make sure you have the proper spark plugs installed, they are super expensive plugs but the engine definetely needs them to run properly. There is a sticker on the hood that tells you the correct plug or just head to Nissan and they will be able to look it up. Expect to pay around $60-70 for a set. Check what plugs you have first!

[E_Cruz1989]

Today I did some more cleaning. I bought some CRC electric cleaner and throttle body cleaner and went to town. Damn my TB's were filthy. Yuck. I cleaned as many electric connectors that I could visibly see and had access too. The car runs a lot better now, but I can still feel missfire, barely noticeable unless you actually listen for it. Phew, some of those connectors were green lol now they're shiny gold or silver. Now for the bad news, broke my f*** ABS plastic MAF/Filter adapter, had to go to O'Rielys and buy the 240sx ss adapter, which my dad is going to have to modify to mate to the 300zx MAF. Oh well. Basically the car is in driving condition, no smoke, no liquid drips of any kind, just waiting for my injectors and harness.

Good to hear the cleaning helped! If you are still misfiring then I would definetely suggest getting some new gas in it like you said. Have you done the o2 sensor test via the ecu yet? A quick search on google for "300zx o2 sensor diagnostic" should find you a nice tutorial on making sure the o2 sensors are working properly. They get lazy over time. Do all your electrical connectors still have their metal clips and not broken? If they are broken or missing the clip then can have an intermittent connection causing a slight misfire. Another huge thing to check for is to make sure you have the proper spark plugs installed, they are super expensive plugs but the engine definetely needs them to run properly. There is a sticker on the hood that tells you the correct plug or just head to Nissan and they will be able to look it up. Expect to pay around $60-70 for a set. Check what plugs you have first!

I haven't done the o2 sensor check yet, never heard of it 'till right now. I will do my research on it and do it when I have time. I started working mon-fri 8to5 so that's been taking up all my time. The sparkplugs are NGK, and are a year old, I had to replace my old NGKs because I had two bad coils that really farked my day up lol. That reminds me, I should check my coils and plugs and make sure they're not dirty/broke. Some of my connectors are missing their metal clips, I'm in the process of buying new injector plugs from Z1 so that'll take care of those metal clips, but where can I buy a set to replace the rest?

[robomatic12]

Z1 sells replacement metal clips, if that's what you meant?

[E_Cruz1989]

Z1 sells replacement metal clips, if that's what you meant?

I didn't know they sold the clips as well, just that they sell the "old style" injector caps. So Z1 covers all my bases, sweet.

Today I did the climate control code thingy. I waited til the vehicle was at operating temperature before messing with anything. I did it in a cycle of 3, and this is what I got. Also, I have no idea what this "test" shows lol.
1 2 3
76 77 84 ice cold a/c at 1100rpm
48 1000rpm
0 car does not like being on 0
50 1100rpm.

48,0, and 50 were constant numbers. With the a/c on full blast at code 84, the car would not shake at all, idle was at 1100. Turn the air off, shaking resumed. Throttle is also absolutely responsive when at code 84.

I also went through and removed each coil and plug, cylinder by cylinder, and this is what I discovered.

Cylinder 1-3, spark plug tip is black, 4-6 the tip is a chocolate milk color. The spark plugs are a year old, and are NGK BKR5EGP. There's no liquid in the sparkplug chambers, or residue on the plugs themselves besides dielectric.

Thoughts, questions, comments? I know I have some lol.

[E_Cruz1989]

Well, after some research, I found out I need these NGK PFR6G-11 and not the ones that are in my Z now. Damn you O'Riely... So, should I instead spend the $70 on a set of six, instead of injector plugs, and replace the sparkplugs first to see if that fixes my misfire?

[robomatic12]

Yes replace the spark plugs with the proper NGK plugs deifnetely! Using any plug other than the Nissan specified plug is a cause for alot of running problems with our Z's. Sounds like one bank is running richer than the other. This leads me to believe the richer side o2 sensor might be getting lazy. Try the plugs first and report back!

[E_Cruz1989]

Yes replace the spark plugs with the proper NGK plugs deifnetely! Using any plug other than the Nissan specified plug is a cause for alot of running problems with our Z's. Sounds like one bank is running richer than the other. This leads me to believe the richer side o2 sensor might be getting lazy. Try the plugs first and report back!

Thanks Robo! You know, you've been an awful lot of help to me, I appreciate it. I'll locate the proper NGKs locally, then give Z1 a shot if all else fails. Secondly, I will jack the car up and inspect both o2 sensors, unless doing the ECU test will help in clarifying which is being a Homer lol.

Also, any clue/idea as to what those codes mean from the DCC scan?

[E_Cruz1989]

lol just did some calling around, and the only store that has them in, all six would cost me $85.. I think I'll order from Z1.

[robomatic12]

Yes replace the spark plugs with the proper NGK plugs deifnetely! Using any plug other than the Nissan specified plug is a cause for alot of running problems with our Z's. Sounds like one bank is running richer than the other. This leads me to believe the richer side o2 sensor might be getting lazy. Try the plugs first and report back!

Thanks Robo! You know, you've been an awful lot of help to me, I appreciate it. I'll locate the proper NGKs locally, then give Z1 a shot if all else fails. Secondly, I will jack the car up and inspect both o2 sensors, unless doing the ECU test will help in clarifying which is being a Homer lol.

Also, any clue/idea as to what those codes mean from the DCC scan?

No worries! As for the 02 sensors the ECU test should show you pretty quickly if one side is not responding. The check engine light will flash a lot slower for the dead/slow o2 sensor than the other side. It should be a constant on and off.

Sorry I have no experience with the climate control codes, have you tried the online 300zx service manual?

[E_Cruz1989]

My spark plugs came in the mail today, going to be swapping them in and bbqing at the same time. Who wants some?

[E_Cruz1989]

Well, the bbq turned out great, and I got the new spark plugs put into the Z. Well, needless to say, Zoey runs a hell of a lot better with the propper plugs. Throttle response is SPONTANEOUS. Eventhough I didn't get paid today because payroll F'ed up, I feel a hell of a lot better knowing that Zoey feels the same. I'm taking her over to my mechanic tomorrow and having him swap in the new o2 sensors.

[E_Cruz1989]

So, to bring things up to speed, Zoey has new oem spark plugs, and direct fitment o2 sensors (as of today). When I first took the car home from my shop I had idle problems, so I had to readjust the idle back to 900-1000rpm. At this level Zoey purrs like a kitten and responds like she should, but I can still feel missfire. Having already ruled out spark plugs, and o2 sensors, what should my next step be in hunting down this missfire demon?

[robomatic12]

You still have your EGR system in place yes? They can get clogged up causing a misfire, most people delete it if it's not illegal/getting tested in state emissions. What do you feel the misfire as, like a stutter or lack of power? Have you cleaned your MAF sensor, the actual metal wire inside the plastic cylinder? There are no more ECU codes being thrown correct?

[E_Cruz1989]

You still have your EGR system in place yes? They can get clogged up causing a misfire, most people delete it if it's not illegal/getting tested in state emissions. What do you feel the misfire as, like a stutter or lack of power? Have you cleaned your MAF sensor, the actual metal wire inside the plastic cylinder? There are no more ECU codes being thrown correct?

I'm sure I still have every emissions test equipment installed since this car came from Tacoma, WA where emissions testing is required. But in my county, it's not, so I would really like to get rid of everything that pertains to E Testing. I feel the misfire as stutter in low 1st and low 2nd only. I cleaned the MAF sensor connector and screen. And you know, I really still haven't checked the ECU codes. I'm just replacing items that I know need to be replaced because the car is... 18 years old and has 160k.

[robomatic12]

Definetely check the ECU codes, its pretty easy to do and can tell you some things you wouldn't know otherwise. The EGR is hard to delete with the engine in the car, or else it requires dropping the transmission and/or pulling the intake plenum off.

[E_Cruz1989]

Definetely check the ECU codes, its pretty easy to do and can tell you some things you wouldn't know otherwise. The EGR is hard to delete with the engine in the car, or else it requires dropping the transmission and/or pulling the intake plenum off.

Well, looks like I'll be running codes Friday and when I replace my injectors I'll have my mechanic delete my EGR at the same time.