A few random questions

[Infinitiguy19]

When its cold out (~20*F) when the car is first started up in the morning to warm up. The whole car moves forward and shakes a little as soon as the engine cranks over. The car would move if it weren't for the parking detention mechanizm inside the transmission. Is this normal or do I need engine mounts or something?

When taking off from a dead stop the whole car chatters back and forth sometime (like I am driving a standard and I stay in gear a very low speeds.) The engine RPM's visually fluctuated (Dash tachometer). Is my torque converter on its way out? Can I get two years from this transmission till I get together all the parts and knowledge for a manual swap?

Do the rear rubber bushings on the rear suspension axle housing go bad? How many hours are we talking to replace all of them? I may as well replace all those suspension arms while I am at right?

I am getting a creaking noise from the rear which couldn't possibly be from the rear sway bar with poly urethane bushings because I used a half a bottle of silicone grease on every thing. The shocks are over 5 years old with more than 50K miles on them (Tokico blues). Do I need new shocks?

[BCC93QT]

Meh. These below 0 mornings and nights are tough on the Q approaching 300k. Has not failed but she don't like the cold! I get the same lurch forward. My toks have about 70-80k on them and they ride nice still. Buy my Q if ya want. Engine/transmission are strong

[elwesso]

My Q doesn't like the cold either. It groans and sometimes doesn't want to go when it's cold, but once it's warmed up it's fine. I wouldn't worry about it.

What bushings are you talking about? Are you talking about the subframe bushings, or are you talking about the bushings for the differential?

Creaking noise could be coming from a rear control arm.

[Infinitiguy19]

The bushings that are part of the rear hub. I know there is a another name for it but I can't think of it at this point. A few more questions if you don't mind:

When cold and so far only when cold or cold enough to see the exhaust smoke, I see a bluish/grey smoke for about 5 maybe 10 seconds top's. Is this normal at my current millage or should I start wheeling over the engine hoist for a engine rebuild?

Is the engine gusset (The thick metal joint on the engine and transmission) supposed to only have one bolt securing it to the engine? It seems like there is supposed to be two bolts on each side of the engine but its missing one. I hope you guys know what I am talking about.

Is there supposed to be a cover on the starter because there is a gaping hole on the side of the starter?

[IThaJ0kaI]

The bushings that are part of the rear hub. I know there is a another name for it but I can't think of it at this point. A few more questions if you don't mind:

When cold and so far only when cold or cold enough to see the exhaust smoke, I see a bluish/grey smoke for about 5 maybe 10 seconds top's. Is this normal at my current millage or should I start wheeling over the engine hoist for a engine rebuild?

Is the engine gusset (The thick metal joint on the engine and transmission) supposed to only have one bolt securing it to the engine? It seems like there is supposed to be two bolts on each side of the engine but its missing one. I hope you guys know what I am talking about.

Is there supposed to be a cover on the starter because there is a gaping hole on the side of the starter?

Yes the bushings in the knuckles can go bad, what effects it has I do not know. You can buy poly or pillowballs to replace the factory rubber units.

5-10 seconds of smoke with 150K+ miles isnt terrible, especially when cold out.

Yes the engine bracket is supposed to have 2 bolts, but its roll is very minor. As long as it is tight on there, you shouldn't have any issues.

Can you take a picture of the starter? There is a hole in the mount on the block for it, its to get 1 of the main bolts out.

[Infinitiguy19]

Yes the bushings in the knuckles can go bad, what effects it has I do not know. You can buy poly or pillowballs to replace the factory rubber units.

5-10 seconds of smoke with 150K+ miles isnt terrible, especially when cold out.

Yes the engine bracket is supposed to have 2 bolts, but its roll is very minor. As long as it is tight on there, you shouldn't have any issues.

Can you take a picture of the starter? There is a hole in the mount on the block for it, its to get 1 of the main bolts out.

The bushings in the knuckles (That's the name I was think of) are about a three hour job each side according to All Data. I might take a pry bar and see if there is excessive movement in them.

I will take a picture of the starter soon.

One more question: Am I hurting the car by keeping the engine under 2000 RPM's? I can't remember the last time I did a Wide Open Throttle (WOT) run.

[BCC93QT]

Can't say you are hurting your engine by keeping it under 2k rpms but whats the point? go buy a civic if you want to do that. I cant remember a day i have NOT red lined mine.

[IThaJ0kaI]

I dont redline mine a lot, but I do drive the s*** out of it. To stay below 2,000rpms is just crazy talk lol.

[Infinitiguy19]

I keep it under 2K RPM's because the A/T is about to explode. And I want to save fuel.

Yet another question: Are the rear wheels supposed to spin in neutral while on a lift? Is that even normal?

[BCC93QT]

The wheels on my car don't spin when in neutral on the lift. Blow the transmission up already. Keeping it under 2k RPMS I would be leaning towards it may not hurt the vehicle or maybe very little but its not helping much either

[Q451990]

Yet another question: Are the rear wheels supposed to spin in neutral while on a lift? Is that even normal?

Do you mean while the car is running, or off?

[Q451990]

One more question: Am I hurting the car by keeping the engine under 2000 RPM's? I can't remember the last time I did a Wide Open Throttle (WOT) run.

Sounds like watching p0rn with your hands tied behind your back...

[BCC93QT]

Paul, I can get 1250 for my Q if I trade it in toward a car here at my dealership. If you want it for 800$ its yours. Engine and transmission are strong @ 290k.

[goody90q45]

Time to start fresh Paul. Buy it.

[elwesso]

One more question: Am I hurting the car by keeping the engine under 2000 RPM's? I can't remember the last time I did a Wide Open Throttle (WOT) run.

Sounds like watching p0rn with your hands tied behind your back...

LOL I got a chuckle out of that.....

[Infinitiguy19]

Paul, I can get 1250 for my Q if I trade it in toward a car here at my dealership. If you want it for 800$ its yours. Engine and transmission are strong @ 290k.

I put some serious thought into this. And to buy your Q I would just make one good one with the two or put your Q's parts into mine. But then I thought about buying a cheap four cylinder car which would be smarter. But then when would I find time to drive mine when I work so much. I hardly take care of it as it is. At least your honest about not being easy on your Q.

The rear wheels spin in the air when the automatic transmission is in neutral and the engine is running. Is that normal?

Also my car shakes like crazy sometime when accelerating or when the torque converter is locked up. The engine RPM's also fluctuate which is why am inclined to believe its the torque converter. Is it the torque converter or the transmission mount? I figured I would replaced the $130 transmission mount first then use my spare torque converter if that doesn't fix the issue. I hope my spare torque converter is good as the car it came from was towed with the rear wheels on the ground and the engine not running. I am sure it is as the torque converter is bolted to the flywheel and splined to the input shaft of the automatic transmission.

[IThaJ0kaI]

The rear wheels spin in the air when the automatic transmission is in neutral and the engine is running. Is that normal?

Yes this is normal, you should be able to stop the wheel from spinning by hand. If not, then something is wrong.

[BCC93QT]

Paul, I can get 1250 for my Q if I trade it in toward a car here at my dealership. If you want it for 800$ its yours. Engine and transmission are strong @ 290k.

I put some serious thought into this. And to buy your Q I would just make one good one with the two or put your Q's parts into mine. But then I thought about buying a cheap four cylinder car which would be smarter. But then when would I find time to drive mine when I work so much. I hardly take care of it as it is. At least your honest about not being easy on your Q.

The rear wheels spin in the air when the automatic transmission is in neutral and the engine is running. Is that normal?

Also my car shakes like crazy sometime when accelerating or when the torque converter is locked up. The engine RPM's also fluctuate which is why am inclined to believe its the torque converter. Is it the torque converter or the transmission mount? I figured I would replaced the $130 transmission mount first then use my spare torque converter if that doesn't fix the issue. I hope my spare torque converter is good as the car it came from was towed with the rear wheels on the ground and the engine not running. I am sure it is as the torque converter is bolted to the flywheel and splined to the input shaft of the automatic transmission.

Paul,
My Q needs brakes, tires (i have 4 new snows), a power steering rack, a new driver seat, and my battery is from 2005. Other than that a fresh cleaning and your golden for at least another 100k. Car has minimal to no rust. The undercarrage is emaculate and the exhaust is almost rust free. I cannot provide maintenance history as I am the only one to touch this car in the past 180k miles other than tires and alignment. There is a 2009 legacy spec B with 23k miles on the lot right now I might jump on so if you want it for $800 its yours