A Few Quick Tech Questions!!!

For the RWD SR20DET cars! Sponsored by Wiring Specialties.
GorillaClub
Posts: 107
Joined: Tue Dec 02, 2003 10:54 am
Car: Racing...

Post

OK guys here it is...

I have had my SR for about 3 months now, just driving it around stock with a front mount and boost controller and a couple other upgrades but nothing to serious.... well its treated me fine and I really ahvent had a chance to touch to boost controller front its stock wastegate setting so I have been running about 9 to 10 pounds (spike) and then tapper to 8 or 7 by the end of the gear, well when I adjusted it the other day my boost wouldnt go any higher then that, no matter where I set the controller it stays the same, and I know everything is hooked up correctly.

Second, at around 5500-6000 Rpm my car has a harsh rattle sound, but not something normal like a loose clamp or bolt its more of a vibration you can hear if you know what Im talking about, its the best way to describe it, what is this.. also it seems to be coming from the passenger side, under the hood.

Third the car seems down on power, it does spin the tires from the 1-2 shift near as long as it used to, and it just seems a bit more sluggish.... No i understand reading all of this the obvious reason would be my turbo is going, but could there also be other reasons or things I should look for to confirm a problem! Thanks


Onizuka
Posts: 8450
Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 5:24 pm
Car: 91 Nissan S13 coupe SR20DET
89 Nissan S14 hatch SR20DE

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What boost controller are you using? Greddy profec B spec II? I you sure your drawing your boost signal from the right vac hoses?

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Neil
Posts: 745
Joined: Tue Apr 20, 2004 10:27 pm
Car: shooting laser guns

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that harsh rattle could be anything. something under the dash vibrating, something in your glovebox, maybe a part of your exhaust is hitting something... For the longest time there was a nasty buzzing under my dash in my coupe and it turned out to be the a/c hard line where it mounts to the firewall. whatever is in the cabin behind the firewall that helps hold it up i dunno, but it was loose and buzzing like crazy. tightened up the 10mm clamp on the ac line in the engine bay and its been fine. Buzzes are hard to locate cuz they can be omnidirectional...

as far as power, check yr timing & make sure any lines you have going to the wastegate arent dry-rotted.

& yea, letting us know what boost controller you have might help

GorillaClub
Posts: 107
Joined: Tue Dec 02, 2003 10:54 am
Car: Racing...

Post

yeah sorry guys should hve been more informative, its a manual boost cotroller DNA to be exact. I mean the car runs fine in everyday traffic and its stilll pretty fast, but if I could get the turbo to hold more then 10 LBs it would be a bit faster, and actually it only spikes to 10 and then just shoots down to 8 the whole band!

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Neil
Posts: 745
Joined: Tue Apr 20, 2004 10:27 pm
Car: shooting laser guns

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hm. I dont know how the DNA sets up, GReddy EBC's have a Gain, and a Set Gain.... from what I understand, 'set gain' aka 'start boost' is what keeps the wastegate closed and the other Gain setting you play with to tune out discrepencies, like boost drop off or increasing boost past your setting.

GorillaClub
Posts: 107
Joined: Tue Dec 02, 2003 10:54 am
Car: Racing...

Post

Well I mean, the problem isnt that severe and Im going to be starting the rebuild soon, so its not that big a deal I just wanted it to last maybe 6 more months without having to replce the turbo, its actually starting to sound a bit funny when it spools and I dont know idf its a normal sound, but its not a constant spool sound its like a sputter. No white smoke though so the oil seals are fine hopefully.

I have a block that has been Line bored, bored, honed, cleaned, just waiting for the rods, bearings. Who makes the best rods, with MOney not really concern Ill spend for a good product. I was thinking Pauter, or Crowler, but what do you guys think.


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