Will the fender flares off a Pathfinder fit a 720?

What is the stock redline for the nap-z motor?(2.4l)

Should I use two different tire sizes on my truck?(It seems to be easier to run one size)

Also I found a Weber carb from a Toyota truck. What items will I need to get it to work on a 720?

Just looking to see if anyone has any comments or been there done that kind of advice.

pathfinder flares should fit... maybe a few little tweaks to make them hold but nothing big

stock redline is 5,500.... but the power dies (due to the head porting) at 4,200-4,500

what size tires? its typically ok to run bigger tires in the rear than front... not always ideal though... as long as you don't mix from side to side though you're good

call weber on the carb.... all you really need is the adapter plate and gaskets....

Just the base adaptor will be needed for the webber.

You should get power up to 4800 depending on both static and ignition timing and your carburetor setting.

Its always better to keep one size but depending on vehicle purpose larger in the rear works once you maintain rotation.

Well I think I will go with 15x8 all around and put on the flares. Found the flares $10 a piece at the junkyard, same price for the rims. They just need to be beadblasted.

Do you think powder coating will hold up to tire mounting and the adding of weights?

Found my best shift points is around 4k.

My truck is idling around 1500 can't get it ant lower, any ideas on how to fix this?

legit powder coating holds up to just about anything.... get it done right and its worth every penny

to be cheap but still get results... do it yourself with wheel paint and reapply as needed if something goes wrong

as far as the idle... if you have an idle mixture screw, its as simple as adjusting that

[QUOTE=dogred]Well I think I will go with 15x8 all around and put on the flares. Found the flares $10 a piece at the junkyard, same price for the rims. They just need to be beadblasted.

Did you find the 4x4 flares or go with the pathfinder. Either way post pics of them on the truck

Did not get any flares yet, going to check at the yard next weekend.

Pezi- the screw only does so much and there is still the problem. Now this morning it was around freezing and the idle is higher, around 2k, and now smoking when I rev it. Also my battery light is now staying on, dimly though. Checked the voltage at the battery 12.4v.Checked the oil, not milky thank god. Hope no more problems until I can work on it next Saturday.

Would a faulty EGR valve cause the smoke?Maybe faulty EGR control valve?Visually checked the vaccum lines, all good.

did you check your vac lines (not sure which ones you have and don't have) but it sounds like you may have a leak somewhere

as far as the smoke... what color is it?

the battery light means your alternator is on its way out.... i've had the same issue twice already

PEZi720 wrote:did you check your vac lines (not sure which ones you have and don't have) but it sounds like you may have a leak somewhere

as far as the smoke... what color is it?

the battery light means your alternator is on its way out.... i've had the same issue twice already

The smoke color is white, but it is hard for me to tell the difference from the two.

Did a visual, everything was hooked up. I agree with you on the vaccum leak. Other than a visual how should I check it? Use starter fluid? Buddy of mine told me to use a can of propane with a little bit of vaccum hose attached to narrow the leak down.Also when I shut it off it wants to keep running a little bit.

I kind of thought the alternator was going, but the battery is still strong. Idles around 2k but when you come to a stop it will idle around 2.5k then rev it to kick it down to 2k. My dizzy is advanced as far as allowed, should I back it down. Hard to do correct timing with my starter issue not fixed, also can't find the timing notch on the pulley. If I retard the dizzy any it with sputter at idle and ping when under hard throttle.

These things will have to wait until Sat to get attention.

your dizzy should be fine as long as there's no pinging

for testing for vac leaks... using things like carb cleaner or brake cleaner works fine.... just spray and look for abnormalities

wouldn't hurt to do all new lines either

the wanting to run thing is probably that cutoff solenoid.... they tend to go bad... mine did on the stock carb as well as many other people's

IMO... if it IS that solenoid its not worth fixing, a new carb is a better investment

If you have an automatic then your modulator valve is gone. Had that problem (smoking white) with both my laurel and galant super saloon. If its not auto you may have broken oil rings on one or more cylinders. Engine oil smoke differs from tranny oil smoke more by smell than color.

The engine wanting to run after shut off is called post ignition. If there is no carbon build up in the cylinder the problem comes from the dizzy. The timings out, which would explain the sputtering also and the high idle. Its was too retarded.

12.5V shows the alternator is not putting out much and needs to be repaired. Generally its the brushes that need changing, but there's the rectifier plate that goes too.

The pathfinder wheel arch is designed for bigger wheels so the flares are longer the the 4X4 pick ups, they're wider (front to back) too, so some tweaking would be needed.
Modified by flinterman2000 at 5:00 AM 2/24/2010

Got a new altrernator, the dizzy is advanced as far as it will go. When I retard the dizzy is when I get sputtering at idle.

I had this thing running like a top, just pisses me off.

New carb is in order, so I can get rid of all the emissions crap. Stupid air/fuel mixture silenoid is around $150.

With a Weber do you still need the EGR valve?

dogred wrote:
With a Weber do you still need the EGR valve?

nope

Now this is wierd.

Replaced the alternator, it fixed the idle problem. Now if I can get the dang thing from squealing. I replaced the belt, squealed, tried loosening up the belt, still squealing. Loosened up the belt alittle bit more, no squealing but guages do not work and lights are dim. Tried the same with the old belt got the same outcome as before. I guess it is a faulty alternator bearing.

I just replaced both the alternator and belts for mine. It wasn't the alternator belt that was squealing on mine, but the fan belt. It took it couple of days to settle down.

If the old belt did not squeal then I would have put the new one on and let it ride, but the old one squealed also, so I will take it in for testing.

Dogred, I replaced the belts because they looked and felt like the original ones. Cracked and chucks missing. When I replaced the alternator, I replaced the two belts. The fan belt squealed for a bit before settling in. The old ones were probably stuck to the pulley, which is why they stayed together and why they didn't squeal.

Well I am an idiot, did not have the belt tight enough. Tightened the new belt up and most of the squealing stopped, still likes to squeal in the 1k-2.5k range.