A few questions about my motor.

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
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hvp014
Posts: 369
Joined: Fri Sep 15, 2006 6:06 pm
Car: 89 R32 GTR
Location: Okinawa, Japan

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Hey Guys, I'm joining the CA club!

If you want the long version just goto my build thread, please.zer...age=2

When I received my motor, the MAF wires were spliced and the ECM I received had some sweet sticker on it. Is their a way to tell if my ECM has been chipped for a bigger MAF?

Here are the pics,





and heres the ECM,

Am I over reacting to a damned sticker and some cut wires or what?

And my next question is for the oil filter area, I pulled the filter and found this wire hanging next to it, with no where else to reach except near the oil filter. Am I missing the dummy light gauge, and also their is a nipple below the filter, and it seems to be leaking oil, is that for an after market gauge?



Thanks guys and Im looking forward to finding out what Boost is.


dsc4130

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hvp014 wrote:
And my next question is for the oil filter area, I pulled the filter and found this wire hanging next to it, with no where else to reach except near the oil filter. Am I missing the dummy light gauge, and also their is a nipple below the filter, and it seems to be leaking oil, is that for an after market gauge?



Thanks guys and Im looking forward to finding out what Boost is.
there should be an oilsending unit? right be low the filter and thats were that plug goes

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Bwana
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Joined: Thu Sep 16, 2004 9:38 am
Car: Denali
Location: Escondido, CA

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If you want your factory oil gauge to work you'll need to put a sending unit in that hole and plug the wire in. If you want to go with an aftermarket mechanical gauge you can use that fitting. This will probably result in the oil warning light being on at all times.

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hvp014
Posts: 369
Joined: Fri Sep 15, 2006 6:06 pm
Car: 89 R32 GTR
Location: Okinawa, Japan

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Bwana wrote:

If you want your factory oil gauge to work you'll need to put a sending unit in that hole and plug the wire in. If you want to go with an aftermarket mechanical gauge you can use that fitting. This will probably result in the oil warning light being on at all times.
Okay so the guy removed the Factory dummy light and in the hole placed a fitting for an after market oil pressure gauge?

Thanks for the quick replies, i get a shower and BAM the answers are here

dekansnowman
Posts: 141
Joined: Thu Apr 06, 2006 7:50 pm
Car: 1995 240SX w/RB25

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You should go ahead and buy a set of gauges, at least boost and oil pressure. I did, and mine looks like this.

And yea, you will most likely remove that piece and replace it with the sending unit that comes with the gauges you buy. If you like the ones I have you can get both for about 120 shipped. Just FYI..

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hvp014
Posts: 369
Joined: Fri Sep 15, 2006 6:06 pm
Car: 89 R32 GTR
Location: Okinawa, Japan

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Yea I bought a electric gauge a while back for my ka but never installed it, Im still kinda wearing about haning that big brass thing off of that little hole, I guess I'll try tomake some sort brace tho. Any one wanna throw some thought into the MAF situation? Is it even a CA MAF? thanks!

Masterdebater
Posts: 523
Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 11:02 am
Car: 1989 nissan 240sx coupe

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looks like my ca maf lol...then again they all look the same to me but maybe some ca scintist on here could tell u what it is just from looking at the pics...

boost_boy
Posts: 7051
Joined: Thu Nov 14, 2002 7:28 am
Car: B12 sentra w/built CA18DET, B12 sentra w/fully-built CA18DET, S13 coupe w/ CA18DET, S13 hatch w/CA18DET, 2002 maxima SE
Location: Miami, FL.
Contact:

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Congratualtions on joining the CA club. Being someone that has dealt with helping members get mechanically sound CA18DET engines, I'd be semi-worried about the one you've gotten. I would be curious to open-up the oil pan to check the condition of the bearing and their journals. A chipped ecu tells me that the previous owner needed more performance, so that engine is definitely no virgin.

Hacked wires around the ecu tells me that the previous owner also had either some kind of piggyback system attached and/or some kind of electronic boost controller that took signals from some aspect relating to the ecu and/or its components. My advice, be wary or you'll end-up like countless of other members who have knocking engines or who can't get their heaps started. You can take my advice or you can just horse shoe it in and give it a swing.

Dee

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hvp014
Posts: 369
Joined: Fri Sep 15, 2006 6:06 pm
Car: 89 R32 GTR
Location: Okinawa, Japan

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hey dee, Yea I plan on pulling the pan and checking everything down below along with checking the timing belt and timing this coming week. I'll take some pics and let you know how it looks, the top end looks great, so i'm hoping the bottom end does too. Is their any way to tell if the ECM has been chipped other than opening it, is that even how you check to see if its chipped? The ecu wires aren't cut, its the ones next to the MAF that are spliced, that got me wondering. But I will take your advice and open it up.

ca18det240hatch
Posts: 325
Joined: Sun Feb 18, 2007 2:12 pm

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its a ca18 maf, most of the other maf's have a 4 pin harness with the 4th pin deleted, that one has 4 pins functional which i notice only the ca18 (and the ka24de) have.

sr maf is 3 pin, single cam maf is 3 pin, and then you get into your N mafs, which are 5 pin afaik...those are the z32 and skyline mafs.


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hvp014
Posts: 369
Joined: Fri Sep 15, 2006 6:06 pm
Car: 89 R32 GTR
Location: Okinawa, Japan

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Hey thanks, I gess maybe at one time it might have been played around with.

My next question is, I want to check the timing belt, I got the FSM and it says to remove the CAS. And to mark where the bolts are, so pretty much just get a marker and mark where the bolts go? And is it nessary to even remove the CAS to check the belt?

Thanks for all the help so far!


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