A few problems i need help on

[Sil80315]

OK finaly got my damn motor running after i upgraded it.

The problems im having

Problem #1Choppy idling.. start the motor it revs to 2k to warm up but stalls. BUT after driving around for awhile..the idle calms down and it idles around 1300rpm

Problem #2While at cruising (usualy between 2-3k rpm) it starts to sputter but if you get on the gas it goes away but it is very annoying. (this is also a problem rusco has with his sr aswell and we tryed to figure it out last night)

According to Rusco while he was driving behind me i was blowing black smoke like a old school steam train going down the track but i know my car is running rich so this could also be while its sputterin at this rpm

Im only running 10 psi till i figure this all out, So far the idling is leading to my iacv which makes sence but I would like to get another opinion about it before i rip it off the intake manifold.

Just alittle back round info on my set up

550cc injectorsgreddy knock off intake manifoldHKS 264 camsMegan exhaust manifoldZ32 MafEnthalpy Tuned ecuprocession GT2871 .64 trimCometic metal headgasketARP head studsKoyo RadiWalbro 255 fuel pump

The car halls *** when your on the gas but if your just tryin to cruise around..it sputters and is getting annoying.

I have not timed it yet with my timing gun i kinda just put it where I had it when the sr was bone stock. IM not sure if i have to advance the timing because of the cams

So the car is running rich and I was thinking maybe i can help this with my nismo FPR i got laying around instead of buying a safc that i can only go 10/10 (told by enthalpy)

So if you guys have a good idea how to fix this problem.. rusco and I would gladly appreciate it.

Thanks

[S13FASTBACKSR]

Knowing enthalpy, I highly doubt you are running rich because of your tune..a few things that cause richness and misfiring are timing, MAF, TPS, O2 sensor and a bad ecu..the misfiring at 2-3krpm sounds like the timing is off..set it at 15degrees btdc..also i would gap your spark plugs to 28 and run heat range 7's if you arent doing so already. The car starting up and reving to 2krpm is when its cold only? or cold and warm? if cold ony thats normal..if it idls at 1300rpms then i think you just need to adjust your IACV screw..it doesnt sound like you have a bad IACV because your idle is not irratic or the engine is not dying out..now..if the timing or spark plugs dont stop the 2-3krpm misfiring then check the voltage of your TPS...should be .45volts to .55volts at idle and 4.5volts at W.O.T. also the MAF should have a reading of 12volts, 5volts and two grounds..after doing all this stuff if you are still experiencing the problems let us know

[Sil80315]

yeah im running NGK Iradiums heat range 7 and their gapped to .28. Timing does sound like a big issue but someone else mentioned that a good reason for running rich is i might have a number of small boost leaks But it doesn't act it has a boost leak because theres no hesitation when you just mash the gas and go

Its weird cause its running rich but yet my plugs are golden brown. Im not blaming enthalpy for the reason cause crap there could be a million small little things that need to be fix on the motor and i just have to hunt them all down. So today im doing a boost leak test. and do some timing.

Ill let you know. thanks for the reply

[S13FASTBACKSR]

ya it definately does not sound like you have any boost leaks...just make sure to hit all those tests i told you and get back at us. Good luck my friend

[Geno750]

I've got almost the exact same problem. Car runs great under boost, and when you give it gas, but starts to sputter when I am cruising. It will even backfire if I let off the gas completely and will idle at 600~750 rpm or it will just die.

Edit: Leaking injector on #4 is the culprit

I'd check for an injector leak, it doesn't take long. You might have nicked the small o-ring on while installing the new injectors.

Modified by Geno750 at 4:46 PM 3/3/2007

Modified by Geno750 at 4:47 PM 3/3/2007
Modified by Geno750 at 4:48 PM 3/3/2007

[Sil80315]

Ok i did a boost leak pressure test today and found a ton of major leaks, so after i fixed them all. the motor started to idle on its own but seems like when it was idling around 1k rpm it kinda hickuped. But i did time it with my gun to 15 degrees and it actually seem like its worse, now when im on the highway or cruisin..barely on the gas it really sputters, backfires and pops but as asoon as i give it just alittle more gas it all goes away and its all power going fast. Im thinking it has alot to do with my TPS cause i do notice that I have a dead spot in my throttle like the first half inch of pushin in the throttle seems to do nothing but bam it starts revin the motor.

let me know if anyone has more input

can someone send me a picture of where exactly the TPS should be cause its adjustble so maybe if i can get an idea of where it should be cause i think at one point i took it off awhile ago and just put it on.

thanks

[Geno750]

Ok i did a boost leak pressure test today and found a ton of major leaks, so after i fixed them all. the motor started to idle on its own but seems like when it was idling around 1k rpm it kinda hickuped. But i did time it with my gun to 15 degrees and it actually seem like its worse, now when im on the highway or cruisin..barely on the gas it really sputters, backfires and pops but as asoon as i give it just alittle more gas it all goes away and its all power going fast. Im thinking it has alot to do with my TPS cause i do notice that I have a dead spot in my throttle like the first half inch of pushin in the throttle seems to do nothing but bam it starts revin the motor.

let me know if anyone has more input

can someone send me a picture of where exactly the TPS should be cause its adjustble so maybe if i can get an idea of where it should be cause i think at one point i took it off awhile ago and just put it on.

thanks

Just use a volt meter, .45~.5 is closed and 4.5 is wot. Also, your problem is mirroring that of mine now, and I thought it was tps too, but that was not the case. Check injectors before blowing the $70 on a new tps sensor like I did.

[Sil80315]

Ok its 7:20am I couldn't sleep last night soi went to the shop to try a few things, such as check the TPS volts and maf volts. So I did both and they both came out either alittle under or alittle over what is recommended so thats good.

I also rechecked my engine timing so i had to take off the valve cover and do the whole TDC crap..and like it was before everything is dead nuts on including the CAS

Soi took it for a drive and it still had that little hesitation when attemping to cruise but it wasn't so bad. So i return to the shop and did a few more things

I removed the IACV and cleaned it with choke and carb cleaner and I also notice that my Knock sensor plug wasn't even hooked to the right plug. for some reason it was hooked toa plug comming off the junction box where all the fuses are. So i hooked it up to the plug thats side by side with the plug for the IACV

So i reinstall the iacv and plug everything back in. but this time without using a timing light i advanced the cas alittle so the turn out is

I not longer or even barely have any hesitation while cruising at or between 2-3krpm but i still hear little backpressure in the exhaust im not sureif its because i might have an exhaust leak. So it drives good..has power when you need it but..

The car still doesn't want to idle on its own but the longer it warms up and gets hot..the stalls out alot less then it would the first 5 min trying to pull it out of the shop bay.

Even though the knock sensor is pluged in..the ecu still reads the code 34 (knock sensor) now this sensor could be bad or the ecu took care of it but still shows it..I don't really know.

My huge question is this..while i was under the car removing the IACV I notice that my intake manifold doesn't have 2 holes for the IACV..it only has one and so basicaly it blocks one half of the IACV so im not sure if the company ment to do this or they forgot to bore it out but does anyone know if its ok to do this or what?

Thanks again guys

[S13FASTBACKSR]

wow this is a big mess then lol..no not really its good that you found all of these things like the iacv to intake mani mounting position not having all the holes..and that your knock sensor was moved and the voltage of your tps and maf...try cleaning your maf..try checking voltage and continuity of your knock sensor at the sensor itself and at the ecu..also i think the ecu will reset itself after the car is driven a little bit but im not too sure of that..i would keep checkin back on that and see if it resets itself if it does good if it doesnt check the voltage and continuity possibly get a new knock sensor..but before you buy one mess with the timing..advance it and retard it via the CAS of course to see if it gets any better

[Sil80315]

After looking at the intake manifolds.. they are all like thatI have the knock off greddy intake manifold but even the greddy one only has one opening for the iacv

this pic is the bottom of Greddy intake manifold

you will see theres only one hole for the IACV to put air into the chamber



Now this pic is the bottom of an IACV and i circled the side that is blocked off by the intake manifold



Now this is probably not the reason why im idling like crap cause if greddy did it for a reason then i guess its ok.

BTW Im sorry for stealin this pic of your ebay sale of this IACV who ever you are. Thanks

[S13FASTBACKSR]

Hmmm..i have never heard of that part of the IACV being blocked off with an aftermarket mani..interesting...But bro do you want to know something funny...that is my IACV in that picture..that is me holding it up lol i have it on ebay for sale right now..hilarious what a coinencidence (sp) But anyways after looking at the IACV in person i realize why its blocked off..its because the extra hole is not needed i dont know why nissan made it in the factory intake mani..but i think you circled the wrong side..if you look at the picture the vaccumm pipe goes into the side that you say is blocked off..the other side that you say is not blocked off is just the spring side..it makes more sense that the vaccumm side would not be blocked off

[S13FASTBACKSR]

and another thing..look at the picture of the manifold again..notice the shape of it does not match with the side you do not have circled..the spring side..it matches the vaccuum side

[Sil80315]

the part i have circled is the part that is blocked.. Look at the bolt fittings..not the shape of the holes. the vacum side is blocked off and the side that is open is the side that has the idle screw..

[S13FASTBACKSR]

oh ya i see now..it does make sense that the side with the idle screw is not blocked off but it still does not make sense that the vacuumm pipe side is blocked off..

[Nomac5]

Did u try to replace ur injector o rings thats what im doing now i have similar problems but my car also has trouble starting up in the morning i mean like 20 cranks to start lol thats why ive lead to the conclusion of leaky o rings and the thing is simply floodign leadign to black smoke and rough idle ect.