A few nagging RB20 issues... advice please!

[Eikon]

So I finally got my major issue (cooling system) fixed. The water pump was completely shot... the impeller fins were corroded away to nothing.

Now, I am much happier with everything, but still have a couple nagging issues that I have some questions on.

1.) Cold start problems... I have a new ECU temp sensor that I will screw in this afternoon. Hoping that is the issue. But, what I hear from people who have looked at the car.. the cold start issue may have more to do with building enough fuel pressure. Like their not enough fuel to start the car when cold... Any suggestions or similar issues?

2.) Fuel Pressure... I have a megan racing adjustable FPR. I also have a NISMO FPR adaptor. Problem is that I can't get the screws out.. they are so rusted on that I am afraid I am going to strip them completely out, and never be able to get anywhere. Here's my question... i picked up a used fuel rail and all injectors off EBAY. Is it hard to swap out the whole rail? I am assuming I have to take off the hwole intake manifold.. at least the upper. I don't have to remove anything wierd like muffler belts and headlight fluid do I?

3.) Noisy clutch... I had the install shop put in a new clutch master cylander and they inspected the clutch itself. They said it was in pretty good shape. I am getting a squeeling noise whenever I put the clutch in. Can anyone help me diagnose? What should I be listening for... What should I check to help figure it out?

4.) Noisy steering. From what I gather, when you use the stock R32 x-member, most people run into some rubbing from the steering column on the turbo elbow or something like that. I get some rubbing noise when I turn my wheel. I am going to try some WD-40 inside the cabin in case it something inside. But, most likely the problem is in the engine bay. Any suggestions... The only two sure fixed would be a new turbo elbow/exhaust mani, or McKinney mounts.. I really don't want to spend the cash on new mounts. I've been so pround that you don't have to buy mounts to swap an RB20.

5.) This is the weird one... I have liquid in the muffler. I think it's just water. I put my finger in the puddle underneath the car and it doesn't smell like fuel or coolant or anything other than water. But, it is winter here, and ice and snow can melt and get who knows where in a convertible car. I don't have A/C. I can't figure out why there would be enough water in there to actually slosh around inside. I had the cooling system pressure tested a while back, and it help pressure, so I dont' think I am leaking coolant through the engine at all.

6.) Fuel again... I drove the car for about 20 minutes the other night on the highway to make sure the temp was good. I used about 1/4 tank of gas. WOW! That's awful. Is there any chance that i am getting such a rich mix due to my fuel pressure being messed up that I am actually getting fuel into the muffler? I would think it would backfire.. but it didn't at all.

Well, anyhow... once I get the cold start, the fuel pressure, the steering rub, the clutch noise, etc... taken care of, I will be a very happy RB owner.

Thanks for any input you can lend.

[JonPowell]

#1 check your start signal from the key to the ECU

#2 go out & buy an impact driver...it has the head of a screw driver but you hit it with a hammer to turn it. Forces the head of the screwdriver into the scew & turns all at once....Awesome little bugger.

#3 Throw out bearing is shot.

#4 No clue on this one buddy

#5 Water is a byproduct of heat. It is VERY normal for a car to have plain old water in the exhaust.

#6 probably should get the ECU into diagnostics mode & see if it spits anything out.

[Eikon]

Thanks Jon,

If the throwout bearing is shot... is that repairable, or do I have to replace the whole clutch?

I expect a little water from condensation... but it was so much that it would literally slosh around. It just seemed like too much.

I will see if I can find some time this weekend to mess with the ECU and check if codes are throwing.

[srphoenix]

just fix it so you can take me for rides in it!!!

just kidding, good luck on those fixes though bro, hope they work out quickly and inexpensively.

[Easy Pickle]

if the TO bearing is fuxed, check out the pressure plate and if it looks ok I think you'd be good to just replace the TO bearing

[JonPowell]

Throwout bearings are replaceable seperately. I know the RB25DET series 2 uses the same bearing as the Z32 but on the RB20 I am not 100% on which one to use. I think Carl H is the man for answering that.

[Yellow4g63]

#1 check your start signal from the key to the ECU

Didn't you post the pins for this on your Yahoo Egroup? I have been working like a slave for the last few weeks and haven't got around to checking mine yet. My cold start sucks too

[Carl H]

yeah i pounded a z32 na TOB on to my rb20 when i did my clutch, altho i imagine that a ka one would work as well.come to think of it the z32 na one was slightly diffrent than the rb one but as the z32 clutch really isnt meant for the rb20 then i suppose it doesnt really matter.z32 na if using a z32 clutch else i dunno.

[Easy Pickle]

Just be sure to use corresponding parts. A Z32 TO bearing will NOT work with the stock R32 pressure plate, even though they both fit.

[lmnhed]

#4) My RB20's turbo exhaust elbow (O2 housing) hit the steering shaft too, that is probably what you are hearing. In my case I went to a different turbo wich meant a custom O2 pipe, which I made sure cleared the steering shaft. I know this doesn't really help, but I thought I would chime in.

[Eikon]

It does help.

I will eventually be getting a new turbo. I just have to budget things, so it might be a while. That's why I am hoping to find an easy solution.

When you say 02 pipe are you talking about the turbo outlet pipe (downpipe)?

Is there any way to adjust the steering colum a hair.. every little bit would help.

I am going to do some research into getting a new TO bearing for the clutch.

Thanks guys!!!