A faster way to change the timing chain, while in car?

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chicos240
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Car: 1995 240 SX

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TLDR; A fast way to change the timing chain on s14 sr20det.

Ok guys, the search feature on the new software still isnt working 100% .
Quick backstory, everything was fine on rebuilt motor, until I had to replace my Head gasket. Once I put it back on , car was just running funny. I tried everything and hit my wits end. Took it to Black trax in milpitas and he did some diags etc, and wrote down in his notes "Intake timing may be off". So I took the valve cover off and lined up the marks and sure enough, it just wasnt right. Could not get 5 teeth on Intake side and 9 on the exhaust side like this example; Image.
The silver links were on the marks on the camshafts, everything looked right but it was off.
I thought maybe it slipped a tooth on the cam sprocket when I changed my Head gasket. The FSM shows how to do this, but it is a really long procedure. Take off Intake manifold, exhaust manifold, alternator, power steering pump, head, put engine on a slinglower and upper oil pan. All of this just for the timing chain. If the engine was out of the car it would be a breeze, but I dont want to pull the engine out, any ideas?

TLDR; A fast way to change the timing chain on s14 sr20det.


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mRodiek
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Pull the cam/sprocket & rotate it? Idk

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240_SeX
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Car: 1992 240SX SE

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First put in on TDC, Take the bolt holding the chain sprocket onto the intake cam (best done with a wrench on the cam and an impact gun on the bolt) DON'T LET THE WRENCH SLIP! Then you should be able to skip the few teeth you need to get the timing mark where you need it, you may need to takeout the tensioner, if so, I'd do it before removing the sprocket from the cam. I'd also zip tie the chain to the exhaust cam so that it cant slip off.

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chicos240
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Car: 1995 240 SX

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Thank you for the reply.
But how will I ever know if the GOLD link is on the right tooth on the crank shaft sprocket?

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Hijacker
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Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
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You won't. That's why you need to remove the timing cover, which in turn means you need to remove the upper oil pan. You can do that in the car if you have a way to suspend the motor and drop the crossmember.

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chicos240
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Car: 1995 240 SX

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Hijacker! I was really hoping for a magic formula from you man....
I do have a cherry picker, you think I can use it to support the engine from the mounting brackets. This is the method I use to pull the motor out, but I have never disassembled the cross member while doing so. I am not going to be crushed under the car If I undo the cross member with the engine suspended am I?

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Hijacker
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Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
Location: Fredericksburg, VA

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Nope. The method we used to use at my friend's shop was to use a special tool that acted like a lift, but was basically a cross beam that rested on the fenders. Then the motor was suspended by that. It worked great on lifts. An engine hoist will work perfectly for us back yarders. Just suspend the motor so it's sitting off the cross member, and then you can loosen the bolts for the cross member and let it droop. That should give you enough room to get to the oil pan.

Mastaflash
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if you are sure that the timing was set correctly on the cam and crank sprockets when the engine was assembled then it is impossible for the chain to change position on the crank. the chain can not drop low enough for it to change position.

to fix your problem just adjust the position of the chain on the camshaft sprockets.

set the engine to TDC on #1 cyl.
remove the timing chain tensioner
put the exhaust camshaft into the correct position - about 1 o clock
install the chain onto the exhaust camshaft with no slack.
zip tie the chain to the sprocket so it cant move.
look at the timing marks on the cams, i believe there should be 13 links between them - look this up, im not sure.
put correct amount of links between timing marks
install intake sprocket onto intake camshaft
install chain tensioner
crank engine over a few times BY HAND to make sure everything is set proporly.
recheck links and timing marks.

you might be a tooth or 2 off after doing this, but you should be close. if yo are off, just do it again.

do this at your own risk. if you are not comfortable dont attempt it.

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PyR0NiAk
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The magic number is 11... With intake "key" at 10 and the exhaust "key" at 12, you should have 11 links between the indentions on your cam gears.... The colored links are NOT needed... Crank pulley should have 2nd indention from left lined up with the timing pin. This will have #1 at perfect TDC. After you set this, make sure you get your cam angle sensor installed correctly.

Mastaflash
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Joined: Sat Nov 29, 2003 12:25 pm
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thanks for the magic number.

in short, set #1 to TDC, remove the cam sprockets, adjust the cams to the propor position then reinstall the chain and sprockets. there is no way that the chain can move on the crank after everything is installed.


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