some specs: 95 S14 SE, Z32 MAF, 370cc injectors, SAfC II, MSD BTM, Wastegate spring set at 4 lbs, all vacuum lines T'd off of the FPR. open EGR tube (I'm going to eventually include it in my downpipe).
1). I just received a set of Magnecor 8.5 mm wires. There are 4 wires that obviously go to the spark plugs. There is a fifth wire with two 90 degree ends. Where does that one go connect to.
2.) I finally have my set up finished but car won't start. It doesn't appear to be electrical, because it cranks but won't fire. a. smell gasoline everytime It cranks b. car has been sitting for months with old gas, I put in new stuff. c. old fuel filter, but am replacing with z32 filter d. new copper plugs gapped to .028 3. How do you check for spark?
Any help would be appreciated, Thanks
A couple of questions, Magnecor wires, car won't start, etc
1. The 5th wire goes to your coil-- it plugs into the center of the distribuitor and goes over near the power steering resovior to the coil.
2. Sounds like an ignition problem, either timing or the spark itself. To check and see if you have spark, pull a plug out, reattach the plug wire, and then lay it down on the valve cover (to ground the plug out). When you crank the engine you should see the spark arc on the plug. It might help to do it in a darker place. Other than that, verify that your base timing is right and make sure you set your distrib right so that its pointing directly at #1 when you're at TDC for cyl 1.
Good luck!
EDIT: It could also be that old gas, how much was in there when you added new stuff? Did you take the old gas out? ...Also when you check for spark, make sure you didnt foul your plugs with all that unburnt fue from cranking it beforel-- that could be another problem.
2. Sounds like an ignition problem, either timing or the spark itself. To check and see if you have spark, pull a plug out, reattach the plug wire, and then lay it down on the valve cover (to ground the plug out). When you crank the engine you should see the spark arc on the plug. It might help to do it in a darker place. Other than that, verify that your base timing is right and make sure you set your distrib right so that its pointing directly at #1 when you're at TDC for cyl 1.
Good luck!
EDIT: It could also be that old gas, how much was in there when you added new stuff? Did you take the old gas out? ...Also when you check for spark, make sure you didnt foul your plugs with all that unburnt fue from cranking it beforel-- that could be another problem.
Re: (fiznat)
It finally started. I had the distributor cap on upside down and I didn't have the MSD BTM connected to power. I'm not sure which one of these did the trick but it's up and running now. So thanks for the advice about the timing and the ignition.
I let it run for a minute or two and it was idling really rough at about 1300 rpm. I then shut it down and checked the turbo to make sure it was getting oil. However when I unscrewed the feed line I couldn't any sign that oil had been through the line.
My oil gauge (electric) is connected to the same tee as my oil feed line and the gauge was reading between 70-73 PSI.
Should the turbo be getting oil even at idle?
Thanks again
I let it run for a minute or two and it was idling really rough at about 1300 rpm. I then shut it down and checked the turbo to make sure it was getting oil. However when I unscrewed the feed line I couldn't any sign that oil had been through the line.
My oil gauge (electric) is connected to the same tee as my oil feed line and the gauge was reading between 70-73 PSI.
Should the turbo be getting oil even at idle?
Thanks again
get a coke bottle and disconnect your oil line and put it in the bottle, then start your engine just for a second the turn it off. its hard to tell by checking the line after you shut your engine off because oil, especially syn. oil drains out of the line quickly. you will be surprised at how much oil and how quickly it flows through the oil line. it will drain all the oil in you engine in seconds if you run your engine with the line disconnected.