2015 Rogue, 45K miles. Seems like this evaporator temperature sensor was a common problem that would cause the problem Im having. This no cooling issue has happened in the past- but it strangely has come back to life, but now it seems like it wont cool at all. I am guessing the system is still closed and hopefully full of freon, but are the codes for problems w/the a/c something that the auto parts stores readers will disclose? Another common issue was the air gap for the a/c comp clutch. Could a small town repair shop be able to figure something like this out?

Do a little checking yourself before you send it to a shop, you'll save some heartache by knowing a little bit about the system and what could be wrong with it. The evap sensors aren't as frequent a problem on Rogues as on some other models.

First, look under the hood and see if the clutch is engaged. If it isn't, then you either have a blown clutch fuse, a bad clutch, or a bad A/C pressure sensor. Rogues have what are called "swash plate" compressors, which basically means the compressor runs all the time and never cycles. So if the clutch is disengaged, it means either the ECM sees low freon pressure or the clutch isn't working. The clutch fuse is in the IPDM, you need to take off the front intake duct to access it (one 6mm screw). If you don't have a streaming scanner to check the freon pressure, you can check it with a voltmeter. You should see around 1.0V on the data line (Pink) at the sensor with the compressor off. When they fail, they almost always flatline (0V). If you get something less than a volt, your refrigerant is probably low. If the clutch spins and there's enough freon, then start looking at the other sensors.

The intake and in-car sensors are both easy to check simply by jumping them out (I usually use a pair of regular sewing pins). If you jump one of them and all of a sudden the compressor spins, you found the culprit. If the system is Auto then it will have an in-car sensor, it will be by your right knee in the lower left dash. It's easy to identify, it has a small air duct running to it. The connector for the intake sensor will be nearby up the left side of the HVAC unit, awkward but not difficult to reach. It will have Orange/Black and Orange/White wires on an Auto system, Tan and Brown wires on a Manual. If you don't want to do this sort of checking yourself, give this info to your town sparky and it will help him make a correct diagnosis.

PS - If it blows warm with the fan on high but gets cold with the fan on low, that indicates a bad swash plate in the compressor.

Thanks to both of you! I am fairly well familiar w/cars but not newer ones. Thinking this is an electrical issue, not sure why, but I just sense that. Hoping it is- and its not a leak or bad compressor. I will definitely print this out and hope! George

PS: My WIFE says we should not push the a/c button on, but just leave it on AUTO and set the temp. Is that correct??? Today, I tried any and all combos to get some cool air, nothing worked

burrpenick wrote: ↑

Fri Jul 23, 2021 5:59 pm

PS: My WIFE says we should not push the a/c button on, but just leave it on AUTO and set the temp. Is that correct??? Today, I tried any and all combos to get some cool air, nothing worked

No. With the A/C button off the compressor won't come on, it will just give you ambient air. With the A/C button on, the compressor should run constantly as I described, regardless of whether it's in Auto or not. The swash plate basically makes the compressor "variable compression", so it will only move as much freon as it needs to in order to keep the evap cold. That means it never needs to cycle, it just adjusts the swash plate according to the evap temperature.

From reading some of the notes on the forum about the a/c's in the ROGUE, it appears that they have problems and at least up until maybe 2017 dealers have not been able to solve them. Finally saw one that they replaced the evaporator and that apparently fixed the spotty cooling situation. THinking they used a later model evaporator. Tell me by now dealers can fix this no cooling issue?

burrpenick wrote: ↑

Fri Jul 23, 2021 7:27 pm

Tell me by now dealers can fix this no cooling issue?

If they have a good sparky they can. Frankly, a lot of guys still don't get how the systems work and make a lot of wrong repairs. By and large, the technicians have a problem more frequently than the cars. The only teething issue on the gen2's was uneven left/right temperature on the Auto systems, and that was resolved by the end of '15. The '21's are having a lot of weird issues and that's different, but the gen2's are actually fairly bulletproof. There are simply a lot of HVAC-dummies out there that don't understand them and don't do proper diag.

PS - Feel free to print out the info I gave you and tell them it came from a Nissan Master Tech sparky. Then they'll have no excuse for f__ing around.

I did JUST THAT! And I really appreciate it. I'm going to change the cabin filter tomorrow, only done it once over the 45K miles. Will also look at the condenser to make sure it's clean- s/be.
And do you have a Vstar Honda? rare.................

Yamaha, yes. I had one for about 100K miles. It got stolen but I still use the handle. I ride a Kawi Vulcan now but can't ride much, sciatica in the old bones. We're considering getting a Can Am so I can quit worrying about wobbly-leg attacks at stoplights.

OK, I knew that was a Yam......but 100K miles is a bunch on a cycle! I still ride, but not much, XT250 Yam and currently restoring a 1977 Yam RD400- two stroke twin!l

burrpenick wrote: ↑

Fri Jul 23, 2021 8:34 pm

OK, I knew that was a Yam......but 100K miles is a bunch on a cycle!

That was on the VStar, it had 106K on the odo when they swiped it. On the original pistons, great bike. I guess the thieves thought it had 6K, ha-ha on whoever bought that motor. I have about 350K lifetime.

Those RD's are a hoot, my very first bike was an RC350. No Honda 750 or Kawi 903 ever beat me between stoplights. Seat like a f___ing 2x4, but everybody feared the blue cloud.

Bad news, a new compressor did not fix my '15 Rogues a/c! The shop told me going in that it may not - and he offered to pull it back off. He now thinks its an HVAC ECM issue and that he cannot work on that, thinking I'd need to take it to a dealer. Ideas?????

HELP! ITS HOT! George

Someone mentioned a new a/c compressor on a Dodge that had to have the computer re-flashed before it would work. Anything like this on the ROGUE? New compressor, but it still won't cool? Thanks!

burrpenick wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 28, 2021 8:56 am

Bad news, a new compressor did not fix my '15 Rogues a/c! The shop told me going in that it may not - and he offered to pull it back off. He now thinks its an HVAC ECM issue and that he cannot work on that, thinking I'd need to take it to a dealer. Ideas?????

Did you give him the diag stuff I gave you? If you did, it would hard for him to not find the problem. The clutch either spins the compressor and has power or it doesn't, no rocket science needed. Things only get complicated if it doesn't spin when external power is applied. So this is sort of a "why didn't he know better" situation.

burrpenick wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 28, 2021 8:56 am

Someone mentioned a new a/c compressor on a Dodge that had to have the computer re-flashed before it would work. Anything like this on the ROGUE? New compressor, but it still won't cool? Thanks!

Nope, the compressor clutch on a Nissan is dumb as a post.

I was afraid of exactly what you said, but was kind of in a bind here in a very rural part of NC. Just tried to call, he's gone now, but I'm thinking it didn't spin. He had verified that it had power, so he was just thinking something inside it was shorting. But now the complicated part starts - I know there is a HVAC ECM and that maybe it operates the various switches/dials on the a/c controls. That does make me think about how our controls seemed to work some and then not. We experimented with the auto a/c button, etc, but it was random. My wife was confused after reading the manual about the a/c button, but I FELT it should be on to energize the compressor, in any mode it was in. Appreciate your wisdom and maybe you can guide me some before I take it to a dealer that is an hour away. And I don't want to drive my '72 Nova there and back since it will probably have to be left overnight. George

burrpenick wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 28, 2021 2:32 pm

I was afraid of exactly what you said, but was kind of in a bind here in a very rural part of NC. Just tried to call, he's gone now, but I'm thinking it didn't spin. He had verified that it had power, so he was just thinking something inside it was shorting. But now the complicated part starts - I know there is a HVAC ECM and that maybe it operates the various switches/dials on the a/c controls. That does make me think about how our controls seemed to work some and then not. We experimented with the auto a/c button, etc, but it was random. My wife was confused after reading the manual about the a/c button, but I FELT it should be on to energize the compressor, in any mode it was in. Appreciate your wisdom and maybe you can guide me some before I take it to a dealer that is an hour away. And I don't want to drive my '72 Nova there and back since it will probably have to be left overnight. George

The wife is right, the compressor should spin as soon as the A/C button is pressed unless the HVAC Controller or ECM vetoes the command. The ECM will only veto it for refrigerant pressure over-under, or for wide-open throttle or a hot engine. The HVAC will only veto it if one of the three sensors reads below 33°F (I think) or if the blower is off. That's why it isn't rocket science, all of those things can easily be checked with either a voltmeter or a jumper. Lastly, the HVAC Controller (officially the "A/C Auto Amp") is the last thing you should suspect, they fail very, very rarely.

Thanks once again. To be sure, we should push the a/c button on when we want cooling? (but IF one of those issues happens, the system w/shut it off- which is fine). So the HVAC controller is not something you would suspect, what can you suspect? If I am right in saying that the compressor had power to the terminal but would not come on - and a new compressor w/new clutch did NOT fix it, then what would you recommend checking next. I think this shop would try, they were pretty sad too ($150 labor + $30 Freon + $410 compressor = $695 w/tax). Yes, I was sad too! Thinking this may be a dealer issue since no one here has any scanner that can read deep enough into this system, but maybe that is not necessary? George

Now that I think about it, the first thing to check is the clutch connector at the compressor. We see a lot of aftermarket connectors that look and fit right but have thin pins that don't make good contact. If you find juice on the upstream side of the connector but not on the downstream side, it's a bad pin. The easiest way to fix it is to get a hemostat and twist the pin about 10 degrees on its axis so it looks "thicker" to the female contact.

Too bad they don't make cars like they use too, I sold an 18 yr old camry this year and that air conditioner puts my rogue to shame. The rogue has great cooling but that camry was freezing cold. I actually complained to myself I was freezing with very humid weather outside at times. Very impressed by that toyota.

Just talked to the shop owner that put the new compressor on- he verified that the OLD compressor did come on, but only briefly, then it would shut off. The NEW one never came on- then I told him about VStar650CLs theory on the aftermarket pins not making contact w/the factory connector, he said he would try to play with the pin connector to see if that could have been the reason it didnt come on. I would be VERY happy if it was. But if that doesnt do it, I would figure the next place to go would be the 3 sensors. Im HOPING!

Finally fixed..............an update for everyone w/air conditioner issues:
VSTAR650 provided me w/some great advice, but I am in a location WAY out and not close to any dealers, so I gambled w/an A/C expert in this small village that had 40 yrs of experience. He could not find any specific problem but knew the compressor kicked on for just a few seconds and then shut down. He reasoned it was something inside the compressor and proposed replacing it. He warmed me that it may not fix the problem, and it didnt! Not a cheap option! Got a few more detailed tips from VSTAR here on the forum and took it back, but still nothing. He was pointing to some module or computer issue that only the dealer could understand, but, I tried one more local shop and this guy was good at diagnostics. He/we knew the wire running to the compressor was not getting power, so he followed it and found a 'short'= basically a pulled loose wire, under the fuse box in the engine bay. It was an easy fix, but it took some time to diagnose. Not sure how this happened, I've never been into the box and its worked fine for 45K miles. The first shop did install a new compressor and said he had checked the fuses too, so who knows? But, there are some lessons here- the first is to under stand what type of system you/we have, then find someone that is willing to diagnose before adding parts. That may be difficult as it was in my situation, but try to do some research yourself before. Again, thanks to VSTAR650, he is a valued member here!

Very glad you finally got it straightened away. Happy (cool) motoring!