I am in the middle of replacing my compressor and drier. I went to the dealer to acquire new o-rings for the compressor and the one's they had (from the computer) were not even close. One was obviously the wrong diameter (mine was bigger) and the other was the wrong thickness.
I am replacing a factory calsonic compressor. Has anybody run into this or can you give me the actual o-ring sizes so I can get em a pep boys ... or wherever. I assume any orings will do.
Finally, the manual has on HA-36 o-ring sizes, at least I think that's what it is...if you look at the suction and discharge lines to the compressor it is oring size 8 and 12 (in boxes) if I am reading this correctly. But I cannot find a legend to tell me what those mean. Of course, I don't know that this is even what those numbers represent.
So basically: help!
A/C o-rings for Q -- help!
Man, I wish I could help you. I ran into the exact same problem ordering them from Scottsdale. I got 3 part numbers, but only 2 sizes. I went down to Earl's and they had one that was pretty damn close to what I needed, and it seemed to have worked. I wish I took notes.Look in the upper left corner in the diagram. In my manual, the numbers have mm. after them. So 6mm, 8mm and 12mm, which sounds about right from what I recall. And I do recall there being a really big oring on the compressor, which the manual indicates is a 19mm. I just did this job about a month ago too.
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OneTimePoster
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I did not realize those boxed numbers were supposed to be mm. Still, I don't think mine could be 12 and 19 unless the sizes have changed by few mm. I don't even have an o-ring size in my manual for the pressure switch.
Nor do I have thicknesses for any of them. Guess I could eyeball that.
I obviously can't be the first guy this has happened to. Suggestions? Do I just get orings that are close and pray? How sensitive to small differences will a leak be in the short run?
Obviously if it was R134 I wouldn't mind so much.
Nor do I have thicknesses for any of them. Guess I could eyeball that.
I obviously can't be the first guy this has happened to. Suggestions? Do I just get orings that are close and pray? How sensitive to small differences will a leak be in the short run?
Obviously if it was R134 I wouldn't mind so much.
Well, better to be a bit too small than a bit too big IMO. If the oring is too large there's a greater chance of pinching the seal. If it's too small though, it'll be more likely to crack sooner. Without a sniffer it's hard to know if things are just right. Whatever O-ring you find, don't forget to lube them with R-12 oil on installation.
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OneTimePoster
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natsoundup
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Where did you order your compressor and drier from.....and at what cost....
I have an independent wanting 1300 dolllars to do the job...says he can only get those parts from the dealer...which comes as a kit with hoses..... he says that's driving up the price 300 dollars...
Says his other supplier has had 27/28 Nissan compressors fail this year....
I have an independent wanting 1300 dolllars to do the job...says he can only get those parts from the dealer...which comes as a kit with hoses..... he says that's driving up the price 300 dollars...
Says his other supplier has had 27/28 Nissan compressors fail this year....
For most things I insist on factory new parts only, but for the compressor I might make an exception. Factory ones are $500! You can ask Joe, but I don't think it comes with any hoses. Maybe best to check prices on used ones from Ebay, scrap yards, or non-factory units from Pep Boys. In my case the drier I got from Scottsdale. I recall that it and the orings were around $80.My compressor was replaced just over 3 years ago at Pep Boys and so far so good, though while I was replacing the drier I noticed that the high-side pressure was a little under spec. I can't say what unit they installed, but the entire job, including parts, labor & R-12 was $500 then. Probably a pro-start unit.
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OneTimePoster
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I went to a Nissan (not infiniti) dealer and bought the orings by eyeball.
Next question: I've got the compressor back on but cannot figure out the pulley / tension. I can't seem to move the pulley up high enough to tighten the belt (because the bolt at the bottom stops it). I don't really understand the principle at work here. Should I be loosening the bolt at the bottom, or tightening it (in order to move the pulley up higher? And do I tighten the bolt in the middle of the pulley before or after.
Basically I just don't understand what I'm supposed to do there.
(btw, I bought a reman for $150 roughly).
Next question: I've got the compressor back on but cannot figure out the pulley / tension. I can't seem to move the pulley up high enough to tighten the belt (because the bolt at the bottom stops it). I don't really understand the principle at work here. Should I be loosening the bolt at the bottom, or tightening it (in order to move the pulley up higher? And do I tighten the bolt in the middle of the pulley before or after.
Basically I just don't understand what I'm supposed to do there.
(btw, I bought a reman for $150 roughly).
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Q45tech
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- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
As I understand it Calsonics rebuilds in two grades. Top of the line specs for its former owner Nissan, then a lower grade [less stuff replaced with lower guality parts] for the aftermarket.
Then there are multiple aftermarket rebuilders, repainters, and junk yard used refurbishers. Who make parts for those that need to get the air working to sell a car.
Unfortunately you don't know which grade you get other than from the dealer and that costs 50% to 100% more than the discounters.Replacing a compressor in June and having it fail in July the next year doesn't endear you to your customers so we always use the units from Nissan.
Then there are multiple aftermarket rebuilders, repainters, and junk yard used refurbishers. Who make parts for those that need to get the air working to sell a car.
Unfortunately you don't know which grade you get other than from the dealer and that costs 50% to 100% more than the discounters.Replacing a compressor in June and having it fail in July the next year doesn't endear you to your customers so we always use the units from Nissan.
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OneTimePoster
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Knee surgery?
All tensioners are threaded such that righty-tighty, lefty-loosey applies to the *belt*. So assuming you have it routed correctly above the pulley, and it sounds like you do, then you need to turn the screw clockwise, as if you were tightening it down. Thus the tensioner stud is left-hand threaded to make this happen.
The nut in the center must be loose or else you'll strip the tensioner stud. Only after you get the belt tightened should you tighten the nut. I've found that the belt is just a *bit* tighter after tightening the nut down.
All tensioners are threaded such that righty-tighty, lefty-loosey applies to the *belt*. So assuming you have it routed correctly above the pulley, and it sounds like you do, then you need to turn the screw clockwise, as if you were tightening it down. Thus the tensioner stud is left-hand threaded to make this happen.
The nut in the center must be loose or else you'll strip the tensioner stud. Only after you get the belt tightened should you tighten the nut. I've found that the belt is just a *bit* tighter after tightening the nut down.
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OneTimePoster
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OneTimePoster
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It is sooooooo much easier once you have the confidence to keep turning. That was easy. Thanks.
But now I have a new question. I thought I remember the belt going on the outer ring of the compressor. But now, to get it straight, it looks to me like it must have been on the inner ring (the one that is ribbed). Again I can't find the actual pulley on HA-35 or anywhere else in the manual. Am I right, is it the inner ribbed one?
But now I have a new question. I thought I remember the belt going on the outer ring of the compressor. But now, to get it straight, it looks to me like it must have been on the inner ring (the one that is ribbed). Again I can't find the actual pulley on HA-35 or anywhere else in the manual. Am I right, is it the inner ribbed one?