A/C has musty smell - Ozone Machine treatment?

[taskmaxter]

Hey guys,
This past weekend I purchased a 2007 M45 from an Infiniti dealer. My wife and I absolutely love the car. The dealer we purchased it from was a couple of hours away from where we live and on the drive home we noticed that the climate system produced a musty sour type smell. When the A/C was running using recirculate mode it wasn't as bad, but when you turn outside air on it was worse. I've complained to the dealer about it and they are going to use a ozone machine to take care of the problem. From the searches I've used in this forum I haven't seen that type of mitigation discussed and sounds like most people have used a foaming solution, etc. to take care of the problem. Thoughts? Anyone had this experience and had it corrected using an ozone machine? Just looking for some guidance/feedback from others.

Also, I did check out the service that was done just before buying the car and it shows they did replace the cabin filter.

Thanks

[dvan]

Check to see if they actually changed the cabin air filter...you never know.....

[SdotSdotS]

I recently had this problem. Cabin filter didn't help. Turned out to be the vent cap on the battery popped loose and it was leaking acid and spewing sulfuric acid fumes. The battery is right next to the fresh air vent to the cabin. Probably shortened my life expectancy a few years.

Check your cabin filter & battery. If those are both good, you may have mold in your A/C system. Try turning off the A/C, turn the temperature up and run the fan only on outside air to dry it out.

[taskmaxter]

Check to see if they actually changed the cabin air filter...you never know.....

Good point - I will have to look at the directions on how to get access to the filter and check into this. Very possible they didn't change it.

I recently had this problem. Cabin filter didn't help. Turned out to be the vent cap on the battery popped loose and it was leaking acid and spewing sulfuric acid fumes. The battery is right next to the fresh air vent to the cabin. Probably shortened my life expectancy a few years.

Check your cabin filter & battery. If those are both good, you may have mold in your A/C system. Try turning off the A/C, turn the temperature up and run the fan only on outside air to dry it out.

Thanks for this tip. I just checked the battery compartment and it looks all buttoned up. Wow, thats as far as they extended the fresh air vent? Nothing like sucking in fresh air from within the "engine compartment". Another thing, after running the air conditioner for a short while, I don't see any wet spots under the car. I'm wondering if maybe the drain is plugged up? When they take the car to ozone it, I'm going to have them check that out as well.

[loystock]

The thread below may help you. You can use Frigi-Fresh or Ozium.

post4924267.html?hilit=ac%20odor#p4924267

[taskmaxter]

One thing I noticed, is that there were quite a few dead leaves on top of the air intakes along the front window where it meets the hood. I'm thinking that the previous owner probably parked under trees and some of those dead leaves may have made there way into the air intakes. Is there any way to remove the plastic vent covers that run across the bottom of the front window where the wiper blades are? I'd like to be able to look in them and clean out any debri that may be collecting water and mildew.

[tigerclaws1318]

If your nearby a Toyota dealership stop by their parts department and ask for their A/C power form evaporator cleaner and refresher. It's a 2 piece kit. Here's a picture below.






You can also ask your dealership if they perform a Mist service. More details on the site below.

http://www.uview.com/mist/problem.html

[taskmaxter]

Thanks!

Have you had experience with either of these suggestions (Toyota products or MiST service)? Would like to get more feedback on either before pursuing.

[tigerclaws1318]

The Toyota products works very well as it gets rid off any odor smell from your ac system. The mist service gets rid of any mold and bacterial that has been built up in the vents.

[njjuliano]

The leaves piling up is a likely contributor. A little difficult, but you should definitely vacuum that out, down to the small bits. Some spora can get stuck there.

Febreeze, or some spray deodorizer and disinfectant sprayed into the slots work well in eliminating the musk.

[taskmaxter]

The leaves piling up is a likely contributor. A little difficult, but you should definitely vacuum that out, down to the small bits. Some spora can get stuck there.

Anyone know how to remove the plastic strip along the bottom of the windshield that covers the air intake ducts? Can it even be removed? Looks like the wind shield wipers would also need to be pulled off as well to get access. Would be great to remove it and then vacuum it out underneath there.

[taskmaxter]

You guys are awesome. Eric, thanks for the posting the directions.

So, I dove into the engine compartment tonight and and went to work removing the clips and pullout out all of the plastic covers in the engine bay (surrounding the battery, master brake cylinder, etc). I then went on to remove the windshield wipers but could not get the bolts to budge. Turned out I didn't need to remove them anyway. Using the directions, I removed the passenger side of the plastic strip that runs between window and hood. It allows access to remove the battery. Anyway, once I pulled the piece out, it was nice and clean under it - no odors there. What I found though was that spraying a disinfectant through the cowl vents below the window probably won't work as good as spraying directly into the filter compartment. The only intake I saw was behind the battery and it appears to be the only entry point that leads to the evap. Behind those intake cowls at the bottom of the front window just leads to the firewall. So spraying into them means you are spraying the firewall and only some of the spray will be pulled into the intake behind the battery. (you guys probably already know this though)

So, at least I've narrowed it down that the odor is coming somewhere within the system itself and not behind the cowl intakes. On another note, the dealer I bought the car through is going to replace the evaporator for me under warranty (since the car has the existing warranty and I've only had it now for a week). I'm hoping that by them replacing the evap, that it will resolve the problem. (a little nervous as well since they have to tear the dash apart and that may create dash rattles, etc.)

I still want to get into the filter compartment and check things out. I can tell a new filter has been put it (since I can see it through the intake behind the battery) but want to inspect this area as well.

Anyone had their evap replaced? Did you have any new dash rattles afterwards? - crossing my fingers.....

[loystock]

IMO, replacement of the evap is unnecessary. Had you followed the instructions in the thread I linked earlier, your problem could have been fixed already. That should remove musty odor from your AC system (due to molds in the evap/filter area). Another option is to use Einzett Klima Cleaner for Evaporator.

If the dealership will replace the evap they will also replace the cabin filter. Here's a link for replacing (viewing) the cabin filter.

post5611570.html?hilit=m35%20cabin%20filter#p5611570

[taskmaxter]

Thanks - I pulled a part the cabin filter box (per the instructions) and the filter is new. I didn't have access to Frigi Fresh or Klima Cleaner. Am going to have to order some off of the internet. I did pick up some hvac spray at local auto shop that is also a disinfectant. Spray off and on into the cabin filter area while cycling through the vents (vent only, AC with vent, and AC with recirc). It seems a whole lot better. i do notice though, when I switch over to outside air only after being on AC, I still smell some of the gym locker smell (but for just a couple of seconds). I must not be hitting a spot, or I need Frigi Fresh.

One thing, I have seen the car leave a puddle after driving when using the AC (so it does drain), but it is inconsistent. While running the AC in the driveway for a good 20 minutes today (both AC with vent and AC with Recirc) it is not dripping moisture under the car at all. Does this sound right? I'm wondering if there might be a partial blockage?

[atlM35]

Something else that you can try and it's FREE.
Run the heater on full blast for about 5 minutes after it's hot in recirculate, then do the same in vent. I had to do this to my sister's car, there was some sort of mold/mildew built up that needed to be dried out.
Then I put the car on vent with the a/c on and the fan up all the way. Sprayed lysol into the external air inlets.
Worked for her, no guarantee that it'll work in your case, but worth a shot.

[taskmaxter]

Thanks guys for your feedback.

I may have knocked out the smell. While driving today (to and from work) I don't smell that gym locker room smell when running just outside air only after using the A/C. That was when I would smell that odor at its worst. Now, I am only smelling the residual "perfume" of the disinfectant I sprayed into the cabin filter location (which I'm not digging on, but it is starting to dissipate). I may give it another dose this coming weekend just to make sure it is completely knocked out. Time will tell if it only masked the odor or if it wiped it out.

Thanks Eric for the link. That is a very good deal on the bundled package and having an extra filter around will be handy.

Also, I like the idea of using Klima Cleaner to cleanse the evaporator (still may order it) but I'm a little bit chicken on emptying a can into one of the internal vents with all of the electronic equipment and wiring in the dash. I haven't really seen anyone on here post that they have used it on their M35 or M45 (or maybe I just missed the post). I think if is saw a couple of success stories using it would build my confidence I wasn't going to short something out.

[svard75]

I had the same issue with my car. Smelled like a dirty vag or crotch I guess for the ladies out there (Unfortunately I can't confirm the latter). So where was I? Right I bought 2 can's of Klima Klean and used them. It still resurfaces every now and then on hot days that require running the AC for long periods of time. The solution was mentioned here by someone (Sorry can't remember who and creds to you), if you know you'll be shutting your engine off turn off the AC for at least 5-10 minutes prior to shutting it off and let the system circulate air to dry out the evap box. I've done the Ozone steam cleaning solution you mentioned earlier and it's a quick, safe method but expensive.

[taskmaxter]

Thanks guys for all of your input. This forum has been great.

So, I am quickly becoming very knowledgeable about the M's vent system. Here is what I have done:

1) Pulled apart the engine bay plastic components (cowl cover) and verified that nothing was in the intake are that was rotting.
2) Pulled apart the air cabin filter. Removed filter and confirmed it was new. Sprayed a half can of disinfectant into open filter area while cycling through the hvac settings. This was last weekend.

Based on this, the perfume odor is now gone from the disinfectant spray I used and the smelly gym locker room odor is also gone when running outside vent. What is now left is a stale almost dusty smell coming from the vents when using outside air. The smell is almost like when you sit in a very old cloth couch/chair and it has that old dusty smell to it. Maybe it is just left over dead mold in the evap area producing this smell. Don't know.

Anyway, I took the plunge and ordered some Klima Cleaner. I'm going to use it to bathe the evap box. I did confirm that the evap drain works. I ran the A/C with outside air for a while and then just turned the car off without switching off the A/C (this is the only way I can test it to see if it will drain. If I turn off the A/C first and then turn the car off, it doesn’t drain – strange). I could see condensation dripping out of the bottom of the car on the passenger side. (so that is good news). On a side note, the dealer had to order the new evap from Japan so I won't be here for a couple of weeks. It will give me some time to try some alternative treatments first to correct the problem.

I do have a couple of places around me that do the MiST service. I am going to have to check them out. For those of you who did the MiST service, did it seem to work better/worse than using just the Klima Cleaner? Think it is best to do both (MiST and Klima Cleaner)?

[Pashdut]

Thanks guys for all of your input. This forum has been great.

So, I am quickly becoming very knowledgeable about the M's vent system. Here is what I have done:

1) Pulled apart the engine bay plastic components (cowl cover) and verified that nothing was in the intake are that was rotting.
2) Pulled apart the air cabin filter. Removed filter and confirmed it was new. Sprayed a half can of disinfectant into open filter area while cycling through the hvac settings. This was last weekend.

Based on this, the perfume odor is now gone from the disinfectant spray I used and the smelly gym locker room odor is also gone when running outside vent. What is now left is a stale almost dusty smell coming from the vents when using outside air. The smell is almost like when you sit in a very old cloth couch/chair and it has that old dusty smell to it. Maybe it is just left over dead mold in the evap area producing this smell. Don't know.

Anyway, I took the plunge and ordered some Klima Cleaner. I'm going to use it to bathe the evap box. I did confirm that the evap drain works. I ran the A/C with outside air for a while and then just turned the car off without switching off the A/C (this is the only way I can test it to see if it will drain. If I turn off the A/C first and then turn the car off, it doesn’t drain – strange). I could see condensation dripping out of the bottom of the car on the passenger side. (so that is good news). On a side note, the dealer had to order the new evap from Japan so I won't be here for a couple of weeks. It will give me some time to try some alternative treatments first to correct the problem.

I do have a couple of places around me that do the MiST service. I am going to have to check them out. For those of you who did the MiST service, did it seem to work better/worse than using just the Klima Cleaner? Think it is best to do both (MiST and Klima Cleaner)?

Task, I have some bad news. No matter what you do, this smell will never go away. I realized this when I started to get rid of the smell three years ago. I tried every method in this forum, and this thread. The only solution is to turn off the A/C but leaving your fan on high for one mile before your end destination so it can evap. But even that one mile will smell like complete crap. Its my only complaint with the M. It's a horrible evap design. I tried spraying Frigi, etc and they are all temp solutions, it will come back in no time.

[loystock]

The musty odor problem became prevalent when R12 was replaced by R134a. The R134a does not go as cold as the R12 hence mold tends to form in the evaporator (and filter, if so equipped). I have several postings about this issue.

The best way to avoid mold formation, regardless of car make, is:
-ensure the drain line is not clogged.
-shut off the AC (or run in ECON mode) a few miles/minutes before arriving at the destination. This will allow any condensation in the evaporator to drain out, minimizing possibility of mold formation.
-if applicable, change cabin filter regularly.

At the onset of 'ac odor,' run the AC at FULL HOT for as long as possible (open the windows and sunroof so the heat can be tolerable then cycle between cold and hot until the odor disappear. Change the vent direction too - main/floor/windshield.

If the odor persisted, then a treatment of Frigi-Fresh (Ozium will do but is more expensive) is needed. Cycle between Max Heat/Cool and while spraying with Frigi-Fresh (windows open) at the AC intake. Avoid using products with Ammonia (Lysol, Pine-Sol, etc) as it is corrosive to the evap and copper tubings.

The Klima cleaner is only a last resort. Some cars have screen behind the vents. To apply the cleaner, you have to drill a hole on the cooling line but if done incorrectly, may cause additional problem (water leak in cabin).

[taskmaxter]

Task, I have some bad news. No matter what you do, this smell will never go away. I realized this when I started to get rid of the smell three years ago. I tried every method in this forum, and this thread. The only solution is to turn off the A/C but leaving your fan on high for one mile before your end destination so it can evap. But even that one mile will smell like complete crap. Its my only complaint with the M. It's a horrible evap design. I tried spraying Frigi, etc and they are all temp solutions, it will come back in no time.

Hey there - thanks for the note. Sorry to hear your issue hasn't been correctable. From the research I've done by googling this problem, it appears the majority of people have found a way to eliminate the smell with most saying it hasn't come back, so I'm hopeful that I will fall into that category. Based on the spray I used last weekend I may have knocked the smell out since it hasn't come back. I guess time will tell. I am going to be using outside air from now on while running the A/C though.

[Pashdut]

Task, I have some bad news. No matter what you do, this smell will never go away. I realized this when I started to get rid of the smell three years ago. I tried every method in this forum, and this thread. The only solution is to turn off the A/C but leaving your fan on high for one mile before your end destination so it can evap. But even that one mile will smell like complete crap. Its my only complaint with the M. It's a horrible evap design. I tried spraying Frigi, etc and they are all temp solutions, it will come back in no time.

Hey there - thanks for the note. Sorry to hear your issue hasn't been correctable. From the research I've done by googling this problem, it appears the majority of people have found a way to eliminate the smell with most saying it hasn't come back, so I'm hopeful that I will fall into that category. Based on the spray I used last weekend I may have knocked the smell out since it hasn't come back. I guess time will tell. I am going to be using outside air from now on while running the A/C though.

The smell went away for a couple of months but it comes back soon after.

[taskmaxter]

Well, I think I've figured out the A/C smell issue. Ever since I purchased the car (3 weeks ago) I have been having a problem with burning eyes and a sore throat when using the A/C. I just thought it was a by-product of mildew or mold in the vent system. It would happen when running the A/C or just using the outside air only. From reviewing this forums service manual's, I went looking at page ATC-7 (Automatic Air Conditioner) that specifically states to be careful around the gaseous form (or liquid form) of the refrigerant. It also states "avoid breathing A/C refrigerant vapor and mist - exposure may irritate eyes, nose and throat". Very nice. I'm now pretty sure my car has a refrigerant leak either in the evap or in one of the lines behind the dash and it is venting into the cabin through the ventilation system. The smell I have been smelling is most likely the refrigerant itself. The dealership has my car right now as they are going to be putting in a new evap. Since I found the details tonight about this, I sent the service guys a long email on what else I want them to check for. Since I'm going to follow-up with them on the phone tomorrow, is there anything else they should be looking at if it is a refrigerant leak?

[loystock]

Had you been specific about the symptoms you are having, then somebody in the forum would have immediately told you about the refrigerant leak. Replacing the evap and related tubing should fix the problem.

[taskmaxter]

Thanks Loystock - I didn't put two and two together until today. At least I didn't figure this out 3 months from now.

Is this a pretty common problem in cars today or is it just hit or miss? Man, I hope I didn't lose a few years of life expectancy breathing this stuff in.

[sebvox]

If anyone is trying to locate the evaporator drain in a Y34 (2003-2004 M45), don't waste your time looking in the engine compartment. It does not come through the firewall. It exits the evap/heater core case on the interior driver's side (LH drive) near the accelerator pedal. You can pull the carpet back to expose the drain line. It actually travels from the HVAC case to the floor pan and then exits the vehicle through the unibody frame near the front of the driver's seat. There is a short 3" drain line that comes out of the case then via a T-fitting connects to the remainder of the drain lines. Nissan utilized a main drain line and an overflow line in case the main line gets clogged. There is a plastic plug that you can remove to see the end of the drain line on the underside of the vehicle. There are three plugs in a row and it is the one closest to the front of the vehicle. If using an evaporator coil cleaner, I recommend disconnecting the the T-fitting near the case and introducing the foam there. Otherwise you will be sending foam up a 30" drain line that may or may not make it to the evaporator coils.