Car: 1997 Infiniti J30 refrig. r-134
I had my A/C diagnosed and dealer says there is a leak in the evaporator. The dealer quoted 3.1 hours of labor and $474 for the part.
Is the evaporator a part that I can install myself? I am pretty handy with a wrench, I just don't know what all the job entails.
Also, the oem part is significantly cheaper from Joe (over $100), BUT it is only $59 locally (aftermarket). Is it a bad idea to go aftermarket or is there not really a difference? Performance and fitment issues are my concerns.
The dealer who misdiagnosed the issue said he will shoot it full of 134 for me free since I already paid them once to do it and they didn't fully address the problem. Already have a new condenser and drier, compressor is weak but don't want to address that yet.
Thanks for any insight
A/C Evaporator DIY??
You're saying the system leaks enough to "break" it every 3 months? Was it cold when first recharged, and did the performance drop on a daily basis? 3 hours sounds low...I thought it was a major job.The problem with the DIY approach is you need to recover whatever's still in there (ethically if nothing else). Assuming it's empty, you also need a vacuum pump to pull a vacuum on the system before filling it up. At least you can buy R-134a over the counter.
-
maxnix
- Posts: 22627
- Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2002 8:11 pm
- Car: 1995 Infiniti Q45
1995 Infiniti Q45t
2000 Infiniti Q45
Exposing your drier to the atmosphere means it will have to be replaced. Exposing the compressor to the atmosphere for any length of time could trash it. I would wait until you can do the whole job with OEM parts. The free R134a is nice gesture (probably wouldn't happen with R12!), but why bother to repair while still using a known faulty part? Probably a good time to replace hoses also if you are keeping the car.
What would be the downsides to using the aftermarket evap? Will I have problems with it not fitting the same as oem?
Keep in mind that I am currently a recent college grad seeking employment (read BROKE) and showing up to interviews sweating in the Texas heat is not helping matters.
Any insight on how to remove the evap and replace- I do have the service book in the trunk to help.
The WHOLE rest of the system is new (fully replaced 12/30/03), hoses, condenser, dryer, etc/ They said the compressor was a bit weak but still fully within operating spec. (and it is over $700).
I had them evacuate the whole system already, and I don't see how having them install a new part would have any better chances of not exposing the other components to the atmosphere unless they pull a vaccuum through part of the system while exchanging parts???? Should I just buy another new dryer and install that at the same time.
I can install it and drive straight there to have them re-evacuate and recharge it if that helps the situation?
Any help greatly appreciated, would like to get this taken care of asap.
DAEDALUS: Yes, the system blows ice cold after being recharged, but over the 3 months since that was done, it only blows semi-cold on 80-90 degree days and not at all cold on 100+ days. It still had some 134 in it after 3 months (yesterday) but I had them evacuate the system so there is nothing in it right now.
Keep in mind that I am currently a recent college grad seeking employment (read BROKE) and showing up to interviews sweating in the Texas heat is not helping matters.
Any insight on how to remove the evap and replace- I do have the service book in the trunk to help.
The WHOLE rest of the system is new (fully replaced 12/30/03), hoses, condenser, dryer, etc/ They said the compressor was a bit weak but still fully within operating spec. (and it is over $700).
I had them evacuate the whole system already, and I don't see how having them install a new part would have any better chances of not exposing the other components to the atmosphere unless they pull a vaccuum through part of the system while exchanging parts???? Should I just buy another new dryer and install that at the same time.
I can install it and drive straight there to have them re-evacuate and recharge it if that helps the situation?
Any help greatly appreciated, would like to get this taken care of asap.
DAEDALUS: Yes, the system blows ice cold after being recharged, but over the 3 months since that was done, it only blows semi-cold on 80-90 degree days and not at all cold on 100+ days. It still had some 134 in it after 3 months (yesterday) but I had them evacuate the system so there is nothing in it right now.
-
driverdriver
- Posts: 3397
- Joined: Fri Aug 01, 2003 10:36 am
- Car: NICO's longtime resident Canuck!!!
- Contact:
The drier can hold a good amount of moisture. Opening up the system for an hour won't saturate it, but it will shorten its life. Depends on humidity...don't know if you're in AZ or FL or somewhere in between. It's good you got the system vacuumed out, but if there's a leak, it might already be full of air. Vacuum is only 14.7psi, vs the higher pressures of the AC system.I have environmental qualms with this, but you could refill the system and then top it off every 3 months with a can from Pep Boys until after you find a job and/or things cool off. Maybe give you time to get a 2nd opinion. Make sure it's really the evap leaking and not an oring or something.
More info:
Ok, so I took out the glove compartment/ lower dash after consulting the manual to ensure which module it was. I am now VERY skeptical that they just diagnosed the evaporator without even removing the glove compartment/dash.
The evaporator is encased in plastic so I don't know how on earth they were able to see the UV dye leaking (very slowly) from the evap coils through the plastic without removing the dash. The passenger seat was moved back but that was it. I locked the glove box before giving them the car and they only had the valet key so I am almost positive they just made an assumption. I think they looked quickly at the rest of the system and didn't see anything so they concluded (probably wrongly for the 2nd time) that it was leaking in the only place they couldn't see.
I did notice that the copper connection block on the high pressure hose that they previously had replaced was NOT snugged all the way to the condenser block. When I snugged it down (to match all other fittings) I could see a little bit of oil or liquid squeeze out. I am hoping beyond all hope that they are just that ignorant and the 134 leaked out of that fitting.
I was thinking of doing a shot of that self sealing ac refill. I know it is probably bad for the system, but if I run it for a while to seal up whatever is leaking then evac it and refill would it really be that bad? It worked a treat on my range rovers heater core (different stuff though) over 3 years ago and still holding.
Ok, so I took out the glove compartment/ lower dash after consulting the manual to ensure which module it was. I am now VERY skeptical that they just diagnosed the evaporator without even removing the glove compartment/dash.
The evaporator is encased in plastic so I don't know how on earth they were able to see the UV dye leaking (very slowly) from the evap coils through the plastic without removing the dash. The passenger seat was moved back but that was it. I locked the glove box before giving them the car and they only had the valet key so I am almost positive they just made an assumption. I think they looked quickly at the rest of the system and didn't see anything so they concluded (probably wrongly for the 2nd time) that it was leaking in the only place they couldn't see.
I did notice that the copper connection block on the high pressure hose that they previously had replaced was NOT snugged all the way to the condenser block. When I snugged it down (to match all other fittings) I could see a little bit of oil or liquid squeeze out. I am hoping beyond all hope that they are just that ignorant and the 134 leaked out of that fitting.
I was thinking of doing a shot of that self sealing ac refill. I know it is probably bad for the system, but if I run it for a while to seal up whatever is leaking then evac it and refill would it really be that bad? It worked a treat on my range rovers heater core (different stuff though) over 3 years ago and still holding.
The oil coming out is a big clue! It should have the color of whatever dye they used in there. If liquid can get out then gas can too. Usually the source of a leak will be surrounded by a grimy, gunky build-up, same as a motor oil leak. Go over the entire circuit visually and inspect every connection. If the one you just tightened is the only one, then maybe the problem is solved, except you still need the system filled up.
Thanks for the tip Heavy...my g/f thought I was up to something else going up to the attic to get my box of old college dorm room stuff and running out to the garage with a blacklight in hand!:eek: !
Anyway, the stuff that oozed out of the connection has since evaporated. I cannot see it in either the blacklight or with regular light anymore. Yesterday there was a small amount of clear liquid that had oozed out of the copper connection block and was visible in normal light.
Does the dye/liquid evaporate that quickly? Should I just cross my fingers and take it back for the recharge? They will only do it once more for free then I get to pay. I take it the self sealer is a bad idea.
I read that the reason the evaporators need replacing is when too much water gets in the lines and reacts with r-12 to form an acid that eats through the copper. Seeing as mine is 134 I am even more doubtful that this is the problem b/c it doesn't react the same way as r-12 w/water. Heavy's comment about very very few have been replaced further cements my doubts at their troubleshooting.
Anyway, the stuff that oozed out of the connection has since evaporated. I cannot see it in either the blacklight or with regular light anymore. Yesterday there was a small amount of clear liquid that had oozed out of the copper connection block and was visible in normal light.
Does the dye/liquid evaporate that quickly? Should I just cross my fingers and take it back for the recharge? They will only do it once more for free then I get to pay. I take it the self sealer is a bad idea.
I read that the reason the evaporators need replacing is when too much water gets in the lines and reacts with r-12 to form an acid that eats through the copper. Seeing as mine is 134 I am even more doubtful that this is the problem b/c it doesn't react the same way as r-12 w/water. Heavy's comment about very very few have been replaced further cements my doubts at their troubleshooting.
-
HeavyDuty
- Posts: 1281
- Joined: Tue Sep 23, 2003 4:51 pm
- Car: 1995 Infiniti Q45
95 Nissan 240SX S14
96 Nissan D21
06 Nissan 350Z Z33
It doesn't mean Orlando Infiniti is the Paragon of info, but three of the four guys in the parts dept have 1st gen Q's, and none of them replaced theirs when doing the R134 retro, nor did I when recently doing compressor, lines, drier & expansion valve. Yes, I will wind up replacing the condenser later as well as the evaporator, but that evaporator is big bucks & there was no sign of an impending failure. Also, I believe it's aluminum, fwiw.
Did you have the car on & the a/c on when you were looking? If so, you may have found your leak yourself.
Did you have the car on & the a/c on when you were looking? If so, you may have found your leak yourself.