A/C clutch removal tool please help!!!!
A/C clutch removal tool please help!!!!
Alright I am completely lost here. I have a '90 240 with a Nihon a/c compressor on it and I recently converted it to r134 and my front seal blew out. I got a new seal and pulled off my compressor to put it in. I tried all of the clutch removal tools in our shop and none of them fit ( they are all too small ) so I went next door to the nissan dealer to borrow one of their tools and they had the same ones we have. I have searched the local parts stores too and they only have the same ones that I have. So where in the hell do I find the right tool for this thing? I am kind of aggravated over this whole thing now because I have been searching for my leak and went through 5 pounds of refrigerant with dye in it before I found the leak and now that I have found it I cant fix it! Can anyone please help me? I am desparate now because I dont have $300 for a new compressor.
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Q45tech
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- Posts: 14296
- Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
So you blew the seals by an incompatable conversion [did you flush the system, change the dryer, flex hoses, and replace the mineral oil in system?
Lots more to a conversion than most think to achieve inferior cooling of R134a........the condensor is wrong design.
You surely don't get a new compressor for $300 maybe a quality rebuilt one...........flush the system of R134a re oil and use a junkyard compressor back to R12.
Lots more to a conversion than most think to achieve inferior cooling of R134a........the condensor is wrong design.
You surely don't get a new compressor for $300 maybe a quality rebuilt one...........flush the system of R134a re oil and use a junkyard compressor back to R12.
Well, firstly I know all about the way to properly convert a system but I was trying to squeeze by ( it has worked on all the other cars I have done except mine of course ). The main reason I switched was because of the astronomical cost of R12 and the fact that I get my R134 for free. And you are right $300 is for a remanufactured unit. Anyhow, we can discuss the reasons and consequences of switching to R134 later. My main question is where do you find the correct service tools for these compressors ? I know there has to be some somewhere. I will probably try some of the other local nissan dealers tomorrow, but I still want to know if youguys have ran into this problem in the past.
once you remove the clutch plate from the center. There is a snap ring that holds the electro magnet on to the compressor housing. remove the snap ring and use a plastic mallet from the back side to knock it off. work your way around the outside tapping it with the mallet. it will eventually work its way off. We dont have a magnet remover for that compressor either. it is not pressed on that tight. Like Dennis said though we usually just replace the whole unit as an assembly. But I have resealed many compressors before the way your doing it and thats how I get them off.
No no no, I cant find a removal tool for the clutch plate itself. The threaded hole on the front is bigger than any tool I have found yet including next door at the nissan dealer. And the reason I am not replacing the entire unit is because 1. it works great and 2. I dont have the money. I am going to call another local nissan dealer to ask about the clutch removal tool today but so far nobody has one that will fit this compressor, all standard tools that are available are too small to thread into the clutch plate.
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Q45tech
- Moderator
- Posts: 14296
- Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
Nissan warned that even full conversions [compressor, hoses, and dryer and flush, and newly designed oil] will not cool the same as R12 because the condenser is the wrong type for R134a as the pressure is different requiring a larger [internal area] more efficient condenser and more auxillary air to flow.
Whether a new style condenser can be adapted without changing hard line in unknown?
The vent temp runs 3,4,5F warmer but people eventually adapt from their choice. But the grumble.
I hate conversions because the owners always complains forever.We won't do them chosing to for go the business.
We sure use a lot of R12 at least 250 pounds per year [100 older Infiniti and Lexus] between two independent shops......maybe 3X as much R134a.
Whether a new style condenser can be adapted without changing hard line in unknown?
The vent temp runs 3,4,5F warmer but people eventually adapt from their choice. But the grumble.
I hate conversions because the owners always complains forever.We won't do them chosing to for go the business.
We sure use a lot of R12 at least 250 pounds per year [100 older Infiniti and Lexus] between two independent shops......maybe 3X as much R134a.
Hmmm, well I will give you the full details here. I have owned my car for almost 2 years now and it has always had a working a/c system and I have never added any refrigerant. It never cooled all that great unless you were cruising at highway speeds and I found that it was because my aux. fan didnt work. After figuring out that I had a thermal switch on the engine that was bad I bypassed it and got the fan working. But finally recently the thing just wouldnt cool good enough anymore so I decided to convert it because I knew it was low on refrigerant and like I said we dont use R12 anymore. After the conversion it cooled better than it ever did but it developed a massive leak ( due to the fact that I didnt flush it and used G.M. PAG oil in it and it ruined the seals ) I know that 134 is less efficient than R12 especially in a conversion like mine, but for me it is worth the convenience of having access to all the 134 that I need. Anyhow, all that I need is to find where to get the proper tool to remove the clutch from the compressor so I can install the new seal but so far I am not having much luck. Thanks for the help Q45tech and NISTECH but do youguys know about the difference in these compressors ? All of the standard clutch removal tools dont even come close to fitting this compressor.
you should be able to remove the center nut on the clutch and pop out the friction plate with a small screw driver then remove the snap ring that holds the clutch on it wil slide right off. then you can remove the electro magnet. you should not need a puler for anything. the only thing that would require a puller would be the magnet but I explained the easy way to get that off.
lol boy do I feel stupid NISTECH and it is all your fault!!!! after all that whining I picked up my compressor and pulled the clutch plate off lol. Anyways, I got the clutch off and it is very different inside than the ones you describe but nonetheless I got it figured out. I'll explain how my compressor comes apart. First there is a bolt that holds the cluch on and after you get the clutch plate off which is a very loose fit ( nothing compared to any other compressor I have seen ) After that there is a big hollow nut with juat a few square notches around the perimiter and behind that a lock plate and they hold on the pulley. Then you can get to the magnet which is held in place by 6 phillip's screws. After thatyou are as far as you can go without pulling apart the compressor (thats right I had to pull the frontoff of it to get the seal out because the seal goes in from the rear ) And so far that is all I have done. Back to the point, I got it apart but I am still frustrated about having the car apart since friday and the thing fell apart in my hands lol.......
No, the compresor is mady by Nihon, but I am quite sure it is factory because I got the seal for it from O'reilly auto parts ( not sure if you got them in Cali but they are like a NAPA or Autozone ) I think that there are a couple different compressors that came on them depending on location but that is just a theory based on my quest for the seals. And it is your fault because if I hadnt tried to pry off the clutch plate and gotten it off then I would still be under the impression that I need a tool for it and thus not feel dumb lol
pmkls2 wrote: I've been riding my motorcycle to work to keep cool ( not to mention the massive fuel economy difference )
That my friend is precisly why I own a Geo metro, even using the a/c I get better then 40 mpg!
That was a brand nissan used back then I wasn't sure when the change over took place but it was around then I guess. they use calsonic exclusively now.
Alright, well now I just have a small issue with finding the 2 o-rings for the compresor housing, but I think I can manage. And, I bought the bike to serve 2 purposes, first would be the fun factor and second but just as important is gas mileage since I live 42 miles from work. I pretty much drive about 700 miles a week so even with my 240 that is $60 a week in gas with todays gas prices. I got a good deal on the bike at $1k for a kawasaki vulcan 500 but I just wanted a bike and the fuel mileage was a good excuse. I have done the math on that mod for my 240 and I did lose about 1 mpg, but I still average a lot better than most guys on this board because I am still getting 24-25 mpg with the resistor inline.