A buncha questions

[DrewQ45]

My first post here in the audio forum… got a bunch of questions so bear with me and thanks in advance. The car is a 90 Q45 with gutted Bose.

So first, here’s how my system is setup.

Head unit

Single-din Clarion HU, DXZ775USB. It has three pre-amp outputs for front, rear and sub. Also has USB, Aux (MP3 Player) input, yada yada yada. (see details at end of post)

Speakers

Fronts = 4” component Infinity refs with the satellite tweeters. Rears = Kenwood 6x9s Subs = old school double-ended 8” bazooka with two 500W (250 rms) Cerwin Vega woofers.

Amps

60W Alpine powering just the fronts660W 4ch Amp (name not-worth-mentioning) powers the rears and subs

So here goes the questions….

1. Well I just installed the HU, so there is din sized hole there now. I have an older half-din Clarion EQ74 equalizer. It has only a single input with 3 outs. If I connect one output from the HU to the EQ and use it to spread the sound to front, rear and subs, I am effectively killing all the advanced sound-staging/processing ability of the HU but I love the sound after processing through this EQ. Am I wanting to have my cake and eat it too? Any suggestions?

2. I’m using two separate amps. How do you guys usually power 6 speakers (subs included)? 6 ch amp??? I’m not one to power some speakers directly from radio with the rest amplified.

3. My rear amp has a blown left side on one channel (subs). I’m positive it’s the amp. I checked the transistors but nothing obvious. Any suggestions for 4ch amp within $250 range? What the best for the money? Keep in mind I have a twin bazooka… will a mono amp work okay? I guess I can wire the subs in parallel. It’s being installed above the gas tank so size matters.

4. What do you guys use to fill the hole left when converting to single-din? Cubbies from other cars??? Also, I need to fab a double-din trim ring. The material will need to be very thin and black or dark gray. An suggestions?

Here’s the HU…



http://www.crutchfield.com/S-F...5#Tab

RMS Power Output 20 watts Peak Output 53 watts RMS Power Bandwidth 20-20kHz Preamp Voltage 5.8 volts Video Control Yes Preamp Outputs 3 pair Sub Preamp Outputs Yes AUX Input Rear USB Input Rear A/V Inputs No Memory Card Compatible No Display Color Variable Key Button Color Variable EQ Bands 3 Sound Shaping Type DZ-Enhancer EQ Wireless Remote Yes Wired Remote No Changer Control Yes Security Detachable face Parts Warranty 2 Years Labor Warranty 2 Years Tuner Tuner Type Not given FM Sensitivity 9 dBf FM Presets 18 AM Presets 6 European Tuning No Seek/Scan Seek Radio Data System No Satellite Radio Ready Both Navigation No Playback CD Frequency Response 5-20kHz CD Signal-to-Noise 84 dB Anti-shock Memory None CD-R Playback Yes CD-RW Playback Yes MP3 Playback Yes WMA Playback Yes DVD Playback N/A

..Drew...
Modified by DrewQ45 at 2:11 PM 5/4/2007

[Simmsled]

1. The question you will have to ask yourself to make the decision about the eq is this... "Do I want the convenience of making changes to the sound at my finger tips or in a menu?" The 2 units are from different eras in audio. And before I go bananas on the difference between eras, (and avoiding Audatious and me talking about the good ol'days for 3 or 4 pages of this thread) I will say that the proper thing to do is to throw the eq on ebay. I know it hurts, but I had to do the same thing with my PPI parametric. Life goes on and your headunit has an excelent sound processor.

2. Usually the 4 channel would go on the 4 channels of front and rear speakers and the 2 channel would be for the subs. This makes it so that your speakers get the same treatment.

3. I know it may sound crazy, but for some of the less expensive audio equipment, I like JBL. I never see them suck, and in some cases... they hang with the big bad-boys.

4. As to your double din to single din solution... I don't really like the whole cup idea because it usually collects gum wrappers and pennies. No, if I were to do a Q again the way you are... I would make the panel flat and put a volt meter in the center underneath the cd player. There are many many meters to use. I'll look around the internet for one I would recommend.

I hope this sheds some light on your situation Drew.

[DrewQ45]

1. The question you will have to ask yourself to make the decision about the eq is this... "Do I want the convenience of making changes to the sound at my finger tips or in a menu?" The 2 units are from different eras in audio. And before I go bananas on the difference between eras, (and avoiding Audatious and me talking about the good ol'days for 3 or 4 pages of this thread) I will say that the proper thing to do is to throw the eq on ebay. I know it hurts, but I had to do the same thing with my PPI parametric. Life goes on and your headunit has an excelent sound processor.

2. Usually the 4 channel would go on the 4 channels of front and rear speakers and the 2 channel would be for the subs. This makes it so that your speakers get the same treatment.

3. I know it may sound crazy, but for some of the less expensive audio equipment, I like JBL. I never see them suck, and in some cases... they hang with the big bad-boys.

4. As to your double din to single din solution... I don't really like the whole cup idea because it usually collects gum wrappers and pennies. No, if I were to do a Q again the way you are... I would make the panel flat and put a volt meter in the center underneath the cd player. There are many many meters to use. I'll look around the internet for one I would recommend.

I hope this sheds some light on your situation Drew.

1. You said nothing I wanted to hear but your logic is undeniable. I wish you would have let yourself go regarding the old and new equipment. I wouldn't mind at all. Dammit if my hands aren't crazy glued to this damn eq. I rememember how good it sounded, and looked in the dash. I remember playing DJ with the sub control. It made me like Clarion.

2. Yeah, that makes sense, however I had the amps already and 60W could do nothing for the subs or rears. However, you're making me think I just need to bridge the working channels on the amp and send it to the sub only. A cheaper amp could run the fronts and rears.

3. Yeah, JBLs are nice. I also see Hifonics (sp?) mentioned here a lot

4. The eq wiring is already there, all I have to do is plug it in and reroute the RCAs, the temptation is great.

Thanks for your response

[Looneybomber]

1. Well I just installed the HU, so there is din sized hole there now. I have an older half-din Clarion EQ74 equalizer. It has only a single input with 3 outs. If I connect one output from the HU to the EQ and use it to spread the sound to front, rear and subs, I am effectively killing all the advanced sound-staging/processing ability of the HU but I love the sound after processing through this EQ. Am I wanting to have my cake and eat it too? Any suggestions?

If you really want your cake and eat it too, you could sell both the eq and HU on ebay and buy the new pioneer (I forget the model number) that has a 16ch eq built in and works for all channels. I believe it costs around 400-450. It's the one I wanted for my S, but will not buy it now that I'm wanting to sell it.

2. I’m using two separate amps. How do you guys usually power 6 speakers (subs included)? 6 ch amp??? I’m not one to power some speakers directly from radio with the rest amplified.

Since I do not like my soundstage being all floaty or even worse, coming from behind me!? *gasp* I would use the 2 ch amp to power my fronts, the rear ch on the HU to power my rear 6x9's and the 4ch amp bridged to each sub.

This will cause problems because the 4" components do not have enough cone area or xmax to seamlessly blend into the subs, so you'd either have to raise the LP x-over on the sub amp to help fill the midbass area, consequently completely destroying your soundstage and causing annoying drones, or keep the LP x-over set low and deal with a large null in the male vocal section of your frequency response. I for one am not willing to accept EITHER either of those options.

What does that leave you? Buy a 4ch amp for your 4 speakers and a mono amp that is stable to 1ohm for your subs or a 5 ch amp that has a 1ohm stable sub section or a 6 chan amp or two 4 ch amps. Many possibilities.

3. Any suggestions for 4ch amp within $250 range? What the best for the money?

If you're willing to buy a used amp then you have too many possibilities to try and list here.

4. What do you guys use to fill the hole left when converting to single-din? Cubbies from other cars??? Also, I need to fab a double-din trim ring. The material will need to be very thin and black or dark gray. An suggestions?

As to your double din to single din solution... I don't really like the whole cup idea because it usually collects gum wrappers and pennies.

I do like those! It gives me space to put my change, chapstick, badge and other things

[DrewQ45]

Well I made my decision today. I hooked up the EQ to the HU's front line level outputs just to hear how it would sound and it blew me away. The sound was being processed so much better than via the HU that the difference was night and day.

I also like the fact (as you stated) that I can control the settings with a quick touch versus going through this radio's menus. I don't see them being sold anymore but the EQ is a clarion (EQ74) and of high quality.

I just need to make a trim plate now.

Thanks for all the suggestions everyone.