Ok so here's the deal...I have a 99 Maxima...about 4 months ago when I was driving it regularly, occasionally it wouldn't start....I noticed that when I would use some pliers or some channel locks and twist the negative battery terminal/cable or w.e. it would then start...sooo, I went on vacation for about 3 months...during this time, my drug addict cousin who has no car, broke into mine, removed the whole ignition switch and like drilled through the cylinder (I guess to prevent the engaging of the steering lock or w.e.)....so now months later I come back to my car like this...The battery was completely dead so I hooked up some jumper cables to my buddies car and all interior lights came on (after I used a screwdriver and twisted the ignition switch) however...the car wouldn't start...so I repeatedly unhooked the cables and would twist the negative terminal and try again (unfortunately to no avail..) a couple times it sounded like it miiiiight start (for like half a second but then would stop) but most times I would try it would just make no sound or maybe a click....towards the end (when my buddy was getting frustrated that the jumper cables were on his car for sooo long) it would make like repeated clicking sounds.....what could this be?? Do u think if I replaced the entire negative cable it would be good? I'm thinking since the lights come on that it's getting power but obviously much more power is needed to actually start the car so maybe the wires within the negative cable are corroded or something? Idk...PS there was some corrosion on the terminals but not much...and I cleaned it with a wire brush prior to all of this....any help is appreciated and sorry for such a long post

mac , the break-in does throw a "curve" at the problem ,yet the previous neg. cable twist - IF it NOW seems to kick in the starter in an "improved" manor similar to before , that's significant . If 'n you saw some surface corrosion on any battery cable , from my experience it probably is way more extensive - battery acid will "wick" into the hundreds of fine battery wires like rope or sponges.
Negative cables are usually fairly easy - going from neg. post to somewhere on Block and sometimes w/strap to body sheetmetal. If you can do this right away you'll eliminate a lot of questions if it just improves but doesn't give that positive"strong-confident" starting you should be seeing.
And diagnosing starting is a little complicated , but more of a process of elimination ,headlamp dims on start?? , VOLTAGE CHECKS - done initialy , done upon cranking,taken before and after fuses etc. May need an auto electrician , but outside those points , something anybody can do ,that's easy ,is to systematically remove and wipe & check ALL the fuses in ALL the fuse locations -reinsert twice for good connection ( CAUTION: Beware of the highest Amp ones like 80A ,100A ,150A for they can stick so bad you may damage them or fusebox ) for the moment LEAVE ALONE any that don't come free & easy and do the smaller ones first - work your way up to the bigger ones!
As goofy as this may sound , your making sure ALL circuits , especially any anti-theft controls that can wreak havoc (age makes some go haywire) getting the electricity they need. And back to anti-theft - TIP is sometimes removing it's fuse feed will cut the "engine-kill" feature !
Somethings to work on here , good luck we're wondering what fixes it . GT 2/19/2018