Ok here goes
The car A friends 99 infiniti i30. 200,000miles.
yes I have searched and all the posts seem to be fuel related.
The problem very hard to start sometimes will stumble a litte sometimes I can get it started. Replaced ignition switch. Tested both crank and cam sensors on front of motor. Replaced crank sensor on flywheel. Engine compression is 170 all cyl. I have tested fuel pressure 45psi cranking. I have power to injectors I have power to the coils I have pulse signal to coils. it appeares as I have no spark at plug as the plugs are wet and ether doesn't seem to help. I went to autozone they told me I had a p1300 code, possibly there from testing spark and the car running on 5 cyl. They also said it had an egr code. I cannot for the life of me remember that one though. As for now it will not start I also replaced battery.
I have also wiggled the main harness where the sharp bend is to no avail. The ecu plug has no corrosion. the front 3 coils all test ok and all the relays test ok. And the security light is not on when I am trying to start the car. Could I be leaving anything out?
Please help oh the condensor checks out ok
Thanks in advance

There is no P1300,
A P1320 is an ignition primary failure.

At 200k the coils are done and need to be replaced.

Replacing one might clear the light but you are in serious danger of destroying the catalytic converters which will cost your friend a bunch more to fix.

Yes you are correct it is a 1320 code. You seriously going to tell me that even though the coils test ok per fsm that they are all bad. I drive volvos that have the same coil over plug design and granted at 150000 200000 miles they might kill one but all of them? This car is unusally rusty is it a possible ground issue? the core support is complety rotted away and will get a new one welded in if the car can be saved. 6 coils @ 90 each.............................anyone want a parts car.

Coils...if if ignition circuit is intact.

It sounds like you might have totaled this car.

I did not total the car he brought it to me in a hard to start status. It had been to another tech for months who gave up as I said the 1320 possibly is from running on 5 cyl while teying to test spark and fuel. Once the car starts it is perfectly fine tons of power and strong spark with inline tester. So am I to gather that if one coil goes bad it shorts out the rest in the series? if that is the case they only like to fail under load? As I said they ohm within spec. The repair limit is probably $500 $600 at most. So that being said I dont care to throw parts on it and Why would the faulty coils just repair themselves once it is running. The check engine light is either burned out or disconnected also. Could It have something to do with corrosion between motor and tras as I have read? what is the sensor on the motor mount? As I said the front core support is rotted in two. I also cleaned the connection from crank sensor to block mating surface.
And how could the ig sys be at fault when I have 12 volts at coil and ground and a pulse sig?

We also have no emmission check here so a cel light is not of issue nor are cats this is just an around town go to school car.

I would try to remove the ecm pretty easy. remove it by taking the screws on the side do not remove it with the bracket pain in the butt. ecm is located under the a/c control Audio unit.. on the floor. open the ecm and see if a ic chip is burned or cracked.

Having no emission check in a state doesn't mean you are not committing a Federal Emission Crime.

Not understanding how very fragile modern [post 1995 and especially post 2000] cats are due to the increasing prices of platnium, rhodium, and palladium worries me about qualifications of many mechanics.

Coil on plug systems are very fragile the newer they are .....why waste resources on things that are only warrantied for 100k when new buyers sell vehicles before warranty expires is now the RULE!

Never use the funky excuse that some other brand make model year last longer........that is a purchase decision not a repair excuse.

Real technican should have the equivalent of an Associates Degree in the electronic technology engineering.

[ie] understand how a coil works and how the dielectric insulation progressively fails with every additional spark.......from day one, there are only so many useful hours of operation in these modern compact designs. Especially if not removed and cleaned more frequently than the typical spark plugs are replaced.

The procedure to isolate the faulty coil or transistor circuit is pretty easy, but the manual makes no note of a specific resistance value.
This is solved by averaging known good coils, if the circuit is damaged enough to skew resistance values it should be the one that is not within. However a coil damaged to the point where resistance will be effected a missfire would be noted too.

We typically suggest replacing the set because a resistance check is far to inaccurate to be able to isolate one with any level of certainty. The code sets while the car is running, this is the only way to accurately test the coil, under load. Since the output is in excess of 20,000v (and more than the 0.1A that is sufficient enough to stop a human heart) safely testing circuit integrity is not practical.

http://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/toolc ... ct=&page=3
The first item is the only tool commercially available that monitors and assists in diagnosing a faulty ignition output signal, but that too cannot actually tell you the integrity of the circuit while it is under load.

It is very easy to over think this. I have installed dozens of sets of coils and never had a return of a P1320. If you want to go about it the hard way it is going to be a process.

Shade tree [home or owner based] mechanics are much less worried about warranty and workmanship than professionals [at dealers] who know their weekly paycheck can be materially affected by too many comebacks.

Isn't it amazing that an oil covered spark plug can fire with a new set of coils and be intermitment with an old set.

Back in 50's and 60's ignition points were changed every 12,000 miles and THE COIL lasted 2-3 years at best. Us old timers are flat out impressed when things last 100k much less 200k.
My 328k engine still has 6 orginal coils after 20 years and I have 6 new ones waiting for replacement.

Compare the size and weight of the way over built 90-93 coils [Q45] with todays made to fail units that cost half as much to produce.

whell I have now since replaced all 6 coils per suggestions and tsb but as I suspected it was and is not the fix! The plugs are quite fresh. the tach on the dash moves when cranking and yeS I have access to the formentioned matco tool. Not sure I like stricking on hard surface to turn on. But The car wont start now and it was showing spark while cranking I am at a loss It' s about to get towed to my buddys scanner so I cansee cranking speed and I for some reason think it is somthing floddind it? Possibly coolant temp sensor? What is this chip I should be looking at in the pcm? It will sputter on occasion but I just dont like to crank the thing for 5 min or so. Even with cooling cylcles on the starter it's not good on it.

harrylarry wrote:whell I have now since replaced all 6 coils per suggestions and tsb but as I suspected it was and is not the fix! The plugs are quite fresh. the tach on the dash moves when cranking and yeS I have access to the formentioned matco tool. Not sure I like stricking on hard surface to turn on. But The car wont start now and it was showing spark while cranking I am at a loss It' s about to get towed to my buddys scanner so I cansee cranking speed and I for some reason think it is somthing floddind it? Possibly coolant temp sensor? What is this chip I should be looking at in the pcm? It will sputter on occasion but I just dont like to crank the thing for 5 min or so. Even with cooling cylcles on the starter it's not good on it.

Time to stop throwing parts at it in an attempt to fix it AND TAKE THE CAR TO A TRAINED PROFESSIONAL at a Infiniti dealer or independent nissan SPECIALIST

Well seing as how there is a tsb on the 1320 code and coil replacement that is far from throwing parts at it tommorow it will go to my buddys shop and we will hook it to the modis and really get to the bottom of the car. Seeing as it is a no fault code it could be hours of work and I am quite lazy for charity work. In 20 years I have yet to pay for a repair I have moolighted at a couple of very good indy impor shops. Just thought someone might have seen this before.