98 R50 Pathfinder - Blinking SES, OBD ii port not working

[DrunkTruck]

Hey everyone,

I recently bought a 98 V6 SE 4x4. Before I could do anything with it, had it parked on the street and someone ran into the right rear quarter in a glancing blow. The truck has some offset wheels on it so the wheel sticks out a bit more, so the wheel and tire took most of the damage saving the body. The axle was pushed up forward bending the trailing arm and bending the panhard. A trip to the pull-and-pay, lots and lots of grunting over rusted bolts, and I had the parts to fix it back up.

Ok sob story out of the way now I need to get this thing registered and inspected. I'm in CO so emissions tested. The SES light was on already when I got it (for a low price). My code reader would not turn on from the ODB port. Strange... Went to autozone, their ODB reader also was not energized by the port. OK so I unplugged the battery for 24 hours, let her warm up, drove it around, turned off vehicle, sat for a bit, restarted, no SES. good so far.

But then I did the third start and now the SES came up but it is blinking in a constant cadence, continually. Any idea what blinking vs non-blinking SES light means? Any ideas on what could cause the ODB II port to not energize a reader?

I have not hooked up a multimeter to the port yet.

Couple damage pics for your viewing pleasure

[4xq]

There is a pinned thread above - Pathfinder / QX4 General Information and FAQ . It has a boatload of info in it.

Here is a link to your factory service manual: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/1998_Pathfinder/

In the EC section, page EC-454, is the wiring diagram for the OBD connector. Looks like it uses a 7.5 amp fuse, number 24. If replacing the fuse doesn't work, the other pinout info is there to help out. (You are using the GST connector, not the Data Link connector for the Consult II ).

If you have multiple codes, EC-87 gives you a priority list of codes that need to be cleared first.

I know the ses light flashes when the engine is missing pretty badly since the unburned fuel can toast your cats, but there may be something else that flashes the ses light constantly - just not sure.

Hopefully you can get the OBD port working, and your scanner tells you the problem.

[DrunkTruck]

Thanks for the info. More diagnostic work is ahead this evening and I will come back to update this post. Pathy failed emissions with high CO and HC.

[DrunkTruck]

WAAAAIIIILLLLL I didn't get a chance to get too deep, but the burnt fuse that powers up the security light also powers the obd port. Code is P0300 & P0300 P.

Random misfire. Probably hurt the emissions. The truck does seem to run fine. I did feel it missing once in fourth gear a week ago but then didn't feel it again.

Thinking of starting with a new dizzy cap ($30) and rotor ($9).

Then chase plugs (I know some might start at plugs but I am thinking that a random misfire would be upstream of plugs. If it was a plug then it would be more of an isolated misfire. Either way the plugs are harder to get to than the distributor ha. It's already dark outside and I don't have room in my garage to finish up on it so no pics of the current distributor right now.

[4xq]

I have not worked on 3.3 engine, I have an 02, but I have seen several posts on those distributors causing misfires - something to do with a power transistor or some other internal part.

Might want to search "distributor" and read some of the older threads to get edumacated bout that. (could save you some money on a new cap and rotor since those are included in a rebuilt). Or back to pick and pull!

Rockauto has pretty darn good parts prices as long as the shipping is not too bad - kinda case by case. Or go to Retailmenot, you will find some 30% ( or maybe 40% if you are lucky) off coupons for Advance Auto. For those, you usually order online and pick up in store.

[atraudes]

Don't forget new wires while you're at it. Some folks have replaced the entire distributor to fix idle and starting issues...something else to consider.

[DrunkTruck]

Ok pulled plugs, cap and rotor, all look like garbage. New rotor and plugs are in (except for the #6 plug, I ran out of light and WHAT ON EARTH WERE THEY THINKING???)

Wires look good but given the condition of the plugs and cap/rotor I will replace them. I will post pics of these items because they were in the worst shape I've ever seen spark plugs.

I am betting this is going to fix the miss I hope. I'm going to clean the throttle body too. Should have her back running after work today and I'll post up some pics of spark plug halloween horror show.

[DrunkTruck]

Another thought, I mean I REALLY don't want to spend the $40 on plug wires. The #5 plug socket actually pulled out of the sheath a little bit but it still is only showing 2k ohms so that should be ok right? I need pics. More to come.

[atraudes]

In all reality, as long as the wires aren't super old, you'll probably be fine. I mention them because the rule of thumb is to replace them when you replace the plugs. 2k ohm resistance sounds like it's using a solid core, and should be perfectly fine. Just know that if you start to encounter misfires or general running roughly, crosstalk or a degraded wire could very well be the culprit.

Good luck and I'm looking forward to the car gore pictures!

[DrunkTruck]

The $40 wires were peices of crap that should have never made it off the production line. The production line shouldn't even exist. Had to return them and get the $66 NGK ones. They are at least a pretty blue.

If you can believe it, the new NGK plugs, wires, new rotor and cap, none of that fixed the problem. It seem to run fine before and after, but it still threw the same codes (P0300, P0300P) after it warmed up. Geez. Next up are to double check the vacuum lines and intake, clean MAF and throttle body. I can hear an exhaust leak on the driver side bank, i'd bet it's a manifold issue. Do you think that can cause a miss? Actually, looking at these pics, the #4 spark plug (these are in order 1 - 6 left to right) has oil on the threads. Hmmmmmm

[DrunkTruck]

Well the random misfire went away after I replaced the air intake elbow that goes onto the throttle body.

It drove great with no SES for 4 days. Then it threw p0302 - miss on cyl #2. WTF. anyway, i just sold the POS. Can't believe NIssan would produce a vehicle with such a poor turning radius. And those valve cover gaskets. Screws? Who uses philip screws for that? I know I know.. I should go buy a toyota huh

[4xq]

Depends on which Toyota - there were a couple of models in the 90's where the frame would rust out from underneath you while you were driving down the road.

But hey, if you broke even on the truck, its all good.

[DrunkTruck]

Ya it's not all bad. I learned a lot about Pathfinders that is for sure. I do feel bad that I had to pass the cost of the idiot who ran into it on.. had to build that into the price. But yes, I did break even but did not get paid for my time.

My favorite toyota is the Gen 1 Tundra, 2000-2006. I had a 2003 2WD access cab v8 that I had to sell when I moved to the mountains. I replaced it with a 2006 double cab V8. It's 1000 LBs heavier than my access cab which is a downside but the extra room is really nice on long camping trips. Total beast, rated to tow 6900 pounds but with a larger transmission cooler and trans temp gauge I towed 9500+ pounds on 700 miles trips and up the front range mountains at extended WOT. Just total beast.