98 pathfinder random misfire under load & idle

[pelinors714]

Hello all. this is my first post here. I am currently trying to fix my mothers 1998 Nissan Pathfinder LE 135,xxx miles which is randomly misfiring at idle and also under any load. The service engine soon light popped up finally and showed code P1336 (Crankshaft position sensor). It doesnt misfire as bad as it does as soon as i drive the car. The car definitely cant be driven on the freeway and barely on the streets at low speeds. it just shakes too much for my mom to handle.

I just did a full tune up to the car and i am still having the same problem.
Things i replaced
1. Spark plugs (ngk oem copper core)
2. Spark plug wires
3. Distributor cap and rotor
4. Cleaned MAF sensor
5. Replaced Crankshaft position sensor (duralast brand from autozone)
6. Gave up on replacing the fuel filter as i cant get those damn hoses off the old filter
7. PCV valve (microgard)
8. Oxygen sensors were replaced couple months ago according to my mother.
9. Passenger side exhaust manifold was fixed after a crack formed, according to the shop we went to.
10. Battery was replaced 1 month ago (OEM nissan battery from the dealership)

I am seriously out of options. only 2 things i can think of that would cause it to misfire this bad is dirty injectors or bad distributor.

Can anyone else give me anymore advice before me and my mom bring this thing to a shop to get diagnosed and fixed? I really wanted to help my mom to save money, but i am starting to run out of options. I am mechanically inclined to work on vehicles as i race my Toyota MR2 Spyder and fix that up to go on track

Thanks for any help, me and my mother greatly appreciate it!

[MaximA32]

Did the SES light go out when you did all this? I would definitely suggest replacing that fuel filter especially if it's 135k old. It'll take some convincing but it will come off, just twist it a bit and be patient.

[nissangirl74]

Step One: Cut the fuel lines to the filter, replace the filter and install new lines. It's a PITA, I know, but you'll kick yourself if that was the solution and you go slinging a bunch of cash that's unnecessary. If that's the OEM filter, it's way past time to be replaced anyway.

Step Two: Clean the injectors. Contact the guys at Deatschwerks. They hooked me up with rail service for the RB in my Z. It was perfect, no adjustment necessary. Details are in this link. http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/to-do- ... werks.html

Good luck!!

[pelinors714]

Did the SES light go out when you did all this? I would definitely suggest replacing that fuel filter especially if it's 135k old. It'll take some convincing but it will come off, just twist it a bit and be patient.

I disconnected both battery terminals to reset the ecu and then started the car up... still misfiring and so far the code hasnt come up, but i have not driven the car. i also put a bottle of techron plus fuel injector cleaner but i dont think its going to work since im not even driving the car around.

Can i just cut the fuel lines at the tip of each side of the fuel filter and just reconnect it again? i really cannot get the thing to budge off... i tried for at least 30 minutes fidgeting to get it off with no luck. so could i just cut and reclamp the lines? there is enough slack i think to go over the tips of the fuel filter and sealed with the hose clamps.

[Towncivilian]

How are you trying to remove the fuel lines? I have found that twisting the fuel line will help loosen it. Once you get one side loose, you can hold the fuel filter itself and twist that to help loosen the other end. You relieved fuel pressure before trying to remove the fuel lines, correct?

Did you buy the Techron fuel injector cleaner or the fuel system cleaner? Only the latter has PEA in it, which is the best fuel system cleaner available.

[pelinors714]

How are you trying to remove the fuel lines? I have found that twisting the fuel line will help loosen it. Once you get one side loose, you can hold the fuel filter itself and twist that to help loosen the other end. You relieved fuel pressure before trying to remove the fuel lines, correct?

Did you buy the Techron fuel injector cleaner or the fuel system cleaner? Only the latter has PEA in it, which is the best fuel system cleaner available.

yes, i relieved all fuel pressure. took out the fuse, cranked it till it wouldnt start.

i got the fuel injector cleaner techron.

[Towncivilian]

You want the Techron Concentrate Plus in the future, not the fuel injector cleaner.

Try following the diagnostic procedure described on page EC-360 of the factory service manual as best as you can.

[pelinors714]

You want the Techron Concentrate Plus in the future, not the fuel injector cleaner.

Try following the diagnostic procedure described on page EC-360 of the factory service manual as best as you can.

i think i got that one. techron concentrate plus. the most expensive techron bottle.

ill try to diagnose using that link

[pelinors714]

well replaced the fuel filter.. that thing was dirty as hell... same thing and same code popped up P1336 going to take it into a friends shop tomorrow to see what they can find out

[PathyProject]

Perhaps you should try adjusting your ignition timing.

[Towncivilian]

The OEM plugs aren't copper core. What is the exact part number you used?

[pelinors714]

my friend (mechanic at AAMCO) told me that it definitely isnt something fuel related. it most likely is something ignition related. he i going to do a full diagnostic test on saturday for me.

pathy you could be right.. another one of my friends suggested that the timing could be off. i dont ever remember this car getting a new timing belt, nor getting a timing repair/maintenance.

town i used these NGK plugs. this is how it shows up on O'reilly auto parts

NGK Copper Core - Spark Plug
Part Number: 2382
UPC: 87295123829
Plug Number: BKR5ES-11
BKR5ES-11
Copper
Gap: .039

[Towncivilian]

Oh, those are probably correct then. The FSM specifies NGK BKR5E-11 but that's probably a typo (missing the S). I also mistakenly thought the spark plug change interval was 105k miles, not 30k as in the FSM. The plugs are copper core if the interval is that short I'd imagine.

The timing belt is due every 105k miles, was it replaced around then?

[pelinors714]

The timing belt is due every 105k miles, was it replaced around then?

I highly doubt it was ever changed at all. I will have to ask my mother to confirm that, but i am 99% sure it hasnt been changed

[Towncivilian]

If it has not been done, I strongly recommend getting that replaced along with the timing belt tensioner and perhaps the water pump.

[pelinors714]

i will mention that to my friend. will update this thread if we either run into problems or find the cure

Thank you guys for all the help.
My mother and I greatly appreciate it!

[50BMG]

check the ignitor

[pelinors714]

check the ignitor

where is that located?

[pelinors714]

well.... we figured out the problem... it was a BAD distributor after all. got a brand new one off amazon for $130 shipped and that fixed the problem! car runs perfect now especially after the tune-up and new distributor

[nissangirl74]

Congrats! I hope it lasts you another 135,000 miles.

[pelinors714]

i hope so too! thanks everyone for the help! any other maintenance things i should know about? i know the car needs new brake pads at least. they are starting to make noise under braking, not bad but still noticeable. going to check them out when i have a chance.