98 Maxima SE won't start

[Heeter]

Hi all,

I am at a loss here.

I had a newer motor and transmission put into car 3 months ago. I drove it for about a week, everything was okay with it. The intake and exhaust manifolds, sensors, wiring, spark plug coils from the previous motor that were put onto the new motor to avoid conflict with the computer, electronics system. The previous motor ran fine but was tired.

Since then It started have trouble starting. It would turn over endlessly, then after a couple of minutes, it would finally start. For the next week after that or so, it would be even harder to start. Since two months ago, it won't start at all. It turns freely, and I know there is gas, smells of gas under hood, and I changed fuel pump and filter days before new engine went in.

It is sitting at it's third shop, and all three have not been able to tell me whats wrong. One shop changed the ignition switch and it didn't help. They have all ran their diagnostic stuff on my car.

I have not been able to drive my car for 3 months. It has costed me over $1000 between 3 shops.

Would anyone even have the faintest idea as to what might be happening here?

I cannot spend anymore money at any of these shops, without a clear direction as what's wrong with the car.

Any help would be awesome.

I have been trying to sell it because it has been a horrible experience owning this car (8 months, Since November), but I am getting no calls. Obviously no one wants to buy a dead car. Kijiji Link


Heeter

[maxhopper]

Either of the crank sensors being bad could cause it not to start. But if you've had it 3 different places, it's hard to say. What all has been replaced, what all has been ruled out as a cause?

[Heeter]

Hi, Thanks for your response Maxhopper.

I have replaced:Fuel Pump, Fuel Filter, Starter (because original burned out trying to start the engine), spark plugs, Cam position sensor, Temperature Sensor, Ignition switch.

Carryover from original motor: all sensors, spark plug coilpacks, wiring harness, Intake manifold, Mass Airflow Sensor, Throttle assembly.

Original motor was tired, but running smoothly. That was why the choice was made to carry over all these items.

Original transmission was slipping really badly too.

First shop replaced the knock sensor, second shop replaced the temperature sensor, third shop replaced the ignition switch.

The crank sensor was mentioned at the third shop, but the scan turned up nothing. Shop also thinks that it might be a bad ECU, but they are now grasping at straws, just like the first two shops.

Would a bad crank sensor turn up on a scan? Is there a relay or fuse that could be doing this? Bad ECU?

I have owned this car since November, it has left me stranded three times, for three different items. I have driven three days in the three months.

Looking back now, the previous owner owned it for 8 months before I bought it. I should of seen this coming.


Heeter

[NutriaforBreakfast]

Smell of gas under the hood might indicate the fuel injectors are not opening
or closing correctly (duty cycle is off maybe). Might check the fuel regulator as well.
Just guessing here.

[Heeter]

Hey, thanks for that response.

I asked the shop. They have told me that they have already checked that too.

Heeter

[OwnerCS]

Did anyone clean and test the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV)? I recently purchased an I30 with a bad ECU. The IACV was seriously crudded up. I have read a bad IACV can cause the ECU to fail. I cleaned up the IACV, MAF, throttle body, and got the dealer to start it because it is a 99 model with the NATS key lock out.

I bought an ECU from a salvage yard for $30 and the next week a working IACV for $25.

It should be easier to find a used ECU (and replace it) for a 98 model than a 99 because the NATS key lock arrived with the 99 models.

[Heeter]

Hey thanks for that response,

I got the shop to look into that.

They removed the IACV and cleaned it out, as well as the MAFS, They did notice that it was very clean to begin with.

No change though. Still won't start.


Heeter

[OwnerCS]

Heeter - Sorry to hear about the problem. Where are you located?

Craig

[Heeter]

Heeter - Sorry to hear about the problem. Where are you located?

Craig

I am in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada

[ERUOTANEN]

Sounds similar to my 2000 MAX problem. I bought the car in Dec 08, put 20,000+ miles on it and it ran great until June of this year. It only has 98K miles on and I thought I would run this car another 5-6 years or so. It has been on the shelf since middle of June. First it would occasionally not start. If it did start, it would run fine until you stopped it. Took it to my mechanics who thought fuel pump, which it was not. Then I had the ECM rebuilt at ECM Depot ($400-lifetime warranty). Mechanics put it back in, still would not run. Sent ECM back to ECM Depot and they checked it and they sent it back (unsure about the answers they gave, which were vague at best). Mechanic put it back in, still would not run. Took my older NATS key, turned to ON for 5 seconds and then OFF, did this 3 times and car started and ran great. For a day. Next day at 65MPH the engine died. Dragged to dealer. told him I suspected NATS key, so I had some new ones programmed. Dealer checked all codes and replaced Crankshaft sensor, then he gave up unless I wanted to throw big $$ without a guarantee cure. So I drove the car home, but soon after you start the car it starts missing, running rough, stalling. Will restart and run rough again so I made it the 10 miles home. Put in some gas treatment and topped off the tank with premium (hoping it was a tank of bad gas). Started in the yard and ran for 10 minutes at 2-3000 rpm, and it seemed OK.
I am now thinking Mass Flow transmitter as my 94 MAX had a similar problem, no error code was given for mass flow transmitter, but replacing it fixed the problem and the car ran great until my daughter totalled it. (Anyone needs parts, that one is sitting in the yard; now using it for parts for a 93 Max that my daughter now drives)
I thought these were bullet proof cars but these electric/electronic problems show that the 5th generation Max is one to probably avoid.

[Heeter]

Thanks for your input.

I just got back from the scrapyard my car is sitting at. (Fittingly so, I guess. Spend $8500 on trying to make this car work in the last 8 months, only to end up parked in front of a scrapyard)
They have a 98 working maxima parked beside mine. I asked if I can use the MAFS off that car to test in mine, they allowed me to do that.

Still doesn't start.

Nice to know that I am not the only one.

Heeter

[SichThaSlut]

Not sure if you still have this car, but you should replace the coil packs. Thats a very common problem.