97 Pathfinder Tweeters not working?

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A1218
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So I got a new pioneer touchscreen double din system for my pathy and hooked it up today.

Everything is great except, I noticed no sound coming from the tweeters by the windshield.

My vehicle has the Bose system with the amplifier and I got rid of the Bose deck several years ago when the cd and other components on it stopped working. I had installed a cheaper aftermarket. Now I decided to upgrade to something better.

So I can’t say for sure how long these two small speakers haven’t been working. If it’s since I originally changed the Bose or after. But I was checking today and no sound coming from it.

Otherwise, all door speakers are working and sound is great.

What could it be?


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Rogue One
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Unlike home speakers, which if properly cared for, can last a decade or more, car speakers have a much shorter lifespan. At 23 years old, I suspect they're toast.

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^ This.

Pull the door speakers and replace with same-size modern separates, and they'll do the job.

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mdmellott
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A1218 wrote:
Fri Dec 11, 2020 7:19 pm
What could it be?
I replaced mine with Pioneer tweeters a little over a year ago. https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-T110- ... B00009QOU5 They had been dead for at least a year before that. I too bought a Pioneer sound system many years ago. OEM replacements are not worth the cost in my opinion, at close to $70 each and sound quality not as good as others, like the Pioneers. Granted, the work to custom install what I did right where the originals were may not be worth your effort either but with a hole saw, some hot glue, and a bit of craftiness, they look good and sound great. There's a couple of pictures of what I did in the Amazon reviews.

A1218
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Did you keep the Bose amplifier?

I’m going to use the PAC ROEM-NIS2 to retain the Bose amplifier. I have to go back in as I initially used a regular plain harness but it doesn’t incorporate the Bose amplifier.

Also, when you turn off vehicle you get a pop or muffle noise coming from speakers. Didn’t happen before so I guess it has to the with the Bose integration harness not being used?

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mdmellott
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A1218 wrote:
Sat Dec 12, 2020 5:24 pm
Did you keep the Bose amplifier?
I’m going to use the PAC ROEM-NIS2 to retain the Bose amplifier.
Also, when you turn off vehicle you get a pop or muffle noise coming from speakers. Didn’t happen before so I guess it has to the with the Bose integration harness not being used?
I did and I used the same PAC ROEM-NIS2 system interface so I had no problems with compatibility issues. No strange speaker noises at all. I also used the PAC SWI-RC steering wheel control interface so I didn't lose the volume and channel controls on my steering wheel.
With the new head unit, you lose the diversity radio antenna function the Nissan system had so the second antenna, typically a wire down the center of your windshield, becomes unused with the typical Nissan antenna adapter. I never liked the look of the mast antenna on the fender but it was the only one functional when I changed head units. However, I replaced the mast with a 6" billet aluminum antenna, which has terrible reception by itself, and put a tiny jumper wire in the antenna adapter receptacle which brought back to life the windshield antenna and my reception is just fine. (see pics in Amazon reviews) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K ... merReviews

A1218
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Okay, sounds good. Hope to get better sound after the Bose amp is back on.

Yeah don’t like those antenna masts either, but I’ll most leave that alone.

One more thing, you only used the high positive wires from the pac integration right? Because I’ve read there’s also another positive but it’s low output.

Thanks again!

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mdmellott
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A1218 wrote:
Sat Dec 12, 2020 7:55 pm
One more thing, you only used the high positive wires from the pac integration right? Because I’ve read there’s also another positive but it’s low output.
I don't recall. It's been 5yrs since I set it up. Simply following the instructions is all I recall. I do remember there are wires for features that are not applicable and therefore not used but I don't remember the specifics.

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mdmellott
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mdmellott wrote:
Sat Dec 12, 2020 8:14 pm
A1218 wrote:
Sat Dec 12, 2020 7:55 pm
One more thing, you only used the high positive wires from the pac integration right? Because I’ve read there’s also another positive but it’s low output.
I don't recall. It's been 5yrs since I set it up. Simply following the instructions is all I recall. I do remember there are wires for features that are not applicable and therefore not used but I don't remember the specifics.
Actually, I do remember. There is a power output wire for a power antenna that is energized when the radio is turned on and also a number of speaker wire configurations to cover various existing vehicle model configurations.

A1218
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Yeah I got down all the wires and stuff. The wire you’re speaking of is a blue white wire that connects with the blue white and blue wire on the PAC integration.

But the speaker wires for the PAC has a high positive and a low positive. Many say it’s the high positive you use on the PAC when wiring to the radio. And there’s only one negative so that’s simple.

Also for the black ground wire, did you just wire to the PAC integration harness black wire? Or did you ground it straight to the metal in dash? Or connect both and ground to metal?

Sorry I just want to get this right and finish so it’s the last time I have to go in there lol.

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mdmellott
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A1218 wrote:
Sun Dec 13, 2020 3:50 pm
But the speaker wires for the PAC has a high positive and a low positive. Many say it’s the high positive you use on the PAC when wiring to the radio. And there’s only one negative so that’s simple.
Also for the black ground wire, did you just wire to the PAC integration harness black wire? Or did you ground it straight to the metal in dash? Or connect both and ground to metal?
There you go, making me think. :confused: I now vaguely remember having a conversation with Pac-audio tech support about these low level and high level positive speaker wires but my old grey cells they ain't what they used to be so the details of what and why have faded into the abys of things I don't what to remember. Therefore, just for you, I pulled my head unit out and took a look at what I did. I used the high level wires for all the speakers (wht, gry, grn, pur). The low level wires (same colors with a red stripe), I removed from the harness and tossed them out. The black ground wire from the Nissan harness connector I wired to the PAC harness black ground wire. None of the ground wires were attached straight to metal. The Nissan harness already takes care of that. The blu/wht wire is the amp trigger and the blue one is the power antenna, which I left alone in case I ever what to go that route in the future, but I'm satisfied with my stubby. (no short jokes please and this is not a reference to any body part)

A1218
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mdmellott wrote:
Sun Dec 13, 2020 6:03 pm
A1218 wrote:
Sun Dec 13, 2020 3:50 pm
But the speaker wires for the PAC has a high positive and a low positive. Many say it’s the high positive you use on the PAC when wiring to the radio. And there’s only one negative so that’s simple.
Also for the black ground wire, did you just wire to the PAC integration harness black wire? Or did you ground it straight to the metal in dash? Or connect both and ground to metal?
There you go, making me think. :confused: I now vaguely remember having a conversation with Pac-audio tech support about these low level and high level positive speaker wires but my old grey cells they ain't what they used to be so the details of what and why have faded into the abys of things I don't what to remember. Therefore, just for you, I pulled my head unit out and took a look at what I did. I used the high level wires for all the speakers (wht, gry, grn, pur). The low level wires (same colors with a red stripe), I removed from the harness and tossed them out. The black ground wire from the Nissan harness connector I wired to the PAC harness black ground wire. None of the ground wires were attached straight to metal. The Nissan harness already takes care of that. The blu/wht wire is the amp trigger and the blue one is the power antenna, which I left alone in case I ever what to go that route in the future, but I'm satisfied with my stubby. (no short jokes please and this is not a reference to any body part)
Wow, can’t believe you just did that for me. I really appreciate all the effort into helping me out.

That just clarified all my concerns.

I’m expecting the PAC interface sometime early this week so I’ll let you know how it went and if it improved my system now that I will have the Bose system integrated into the Pioneer head unit.

Again, thank you!!!!

A1218
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I installed the PAC system harness today. Didn’t adjust anything on the PAC box though. Did you have to?

Wasn’t much instructions.

The pop I got when turning off radio or adjusting volume is gone now. Speakers are working. Looks like the Bose amps are working again.

However, the tweeters still are not working, neither side. Am I better off locating a set of originals or putting in a replacement? I definitely do not want to go through replacing the Bose speakers as they are working.

Just the tweeters only. The music doesnt sound good without them.

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mdmellott
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Excellent! No adjustments needed on those tiny pot's for the speakers. Yeah, instructions are a bit anemic. Pac's tech support was good at answering questions though. I remembered those low level wires have something to do with adding an optional amplifier.

Your tweeters are toast. Not a surprise given their age. You can go the OEM route for replacements but the sound quality of others will be so much better. However, to mount new non-OEM tweeters where the old ones are will require a hole saw and a bit of hand crafting to make them look right. There are no aftermarket plug and play replacements for the OEM style. I installed Pioneer TS-T110 tweeters in my '02. They made a huge difference in the sound quality. I first tried out a $20 pair from AutoZone. Fastest $20 I ever wasted. Don't go cheap on these but you don't need to spend much either. The Pioneers are only $40 for the pair.

A1218
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mdmellott wrote:
Tue Dec 15, 2020 8:24 pm
Excellent! No adjustments needed on those tiny pot's for the speakers. Yeah, instructions are a bit anemic. Pac's tech support was good at answering questions though. I remembered those low level wires have something to do with adding an optional amplifier.

Your tweeters are toast. Not a surprise given their age. You can go the OEM route for replacements but the sound quality of others will be so much better. However, to mount new non-OEM tweeters where the old ones are will require a hole saw and a bit of hand crafting to make them look right. There are no aftermarket plug and play replacements for the OEM style. I installed Pioneer TS-T110 tweeters in my '02. They made a huge difference in the sound quality. I first tried out a $20 pair from AutoZone. Fastest $20 I ever wasted. Don't go cheap on these but you don't need to spend much either. The Pioneers are only $40 for the pair.
Finding those OEMs would be a problem by itself.

Yeah I checked out those pics you had on the reviews. Looks good. You had to wire that down to the speaker or you cut the connector right at the old tweeter and wired there?

Now I know I said I didnt want to replace speakers. But would it be easier to simply change all four speakers with ones that already have tweeters built into them? Pioneer TS-G650 are the fronts with built in tweeters that I see on Crutchfield and I believe theres no hardwiring required or modifications for fitment. Looks like a plug and play.
They also have the rears.

Thanks

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mdmellott
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That would be a good way to go. As a wise man once said, "Pull the door speakers and replace with same-size modern separates, and they'll do the job." (AZhitman) I'm surprised Crutchfield doesn't indicate those TS-G650 speakers for your '97 rear doors as well. With all this talk about new speakers, I was looking at those myself a couple of days ago. Crutchfield has them indicated for my front and rear, plus they include the Metra 72-7400 speaker wire harness adapters at no additional cost. I was also looking at the the Kenwood KFC-1666S speakers which Crutchfield indicates as a fit for your front and rear doors as well as mine. Don't know why the Pioneer TS-G650 wouldn't fit your rears also. As for the Pioneer tweeters I installed, I removed the OEM connectors from the original tweeters and used those on the new Pioneers. At least that part made for a very clean install and as for the rest, I can't see the hot glue from the outside so it's all good.

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mdmellott
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A1218 wrote:
Tue Dec 15, 2020 9:07 pm
Looks like a plug and play.
FYI: I couldn't help myself so I went ahead and purchased those Kenwood speakers I previously mentioned, along with the Metra adapters. They are not plug and play. They don't even fit unless I remove the entire Bose amp set up and then the cables are incompatible connections and the Metra adapters do not resolve that. I just returned the purchase for a refund. I had installed one speaker with a trial fit before hand and it actually sounded absolutely terrible. I'll stick with my Bose speakers.

A1218
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mdmellott wrote:
Sun Dec 20, 2020 3:33 pm
A1218 wrote:
Tue Dec 15, 2020 9:07 pm
Looks like a plug and play.
FYI: I couldn't help myself so I went ahead and purchased those Kenwood speakers I previously mentioned, along with the Metra adapters. They are not plug and play. They don't even fit unless I remove the entire Bose amp set up and then the cables are incompatible connections and the Metra adapters do not resolve that. I just returned the purchase for a refund. I had installed one speaker with a trial fit before hand and it actually sounded absolutely terrible. I'll stick with my Bose speakers.
Well there goes that project lol. Good thing I didnt order them yet.

Thanks for the heads up.

I guess ill stick to just fixing these tweeters and keep my original speakers. They work fine anyways. I was told you could connect up to a 9v battery source to test if the tweeters work at all (should hear a thud when touching a loosing to the the negative side of battery). And theres also a capacitor that could be bad and appear blown.

If neither of those work then the tweeter is definitely blown and ill have to get in a set of aftermarket tweeters.

A1218
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I installed a set of kicker tweeters. Wired in the original harness from old tweeter.

Everything is working fine now.

Thanks for the help!

A1218
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Heres some pics of the new tweets and stereo system.

https://imgur.com/gallery/HqnOtBD

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mdmellott
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A1218 wrote:
Sat Jan 02, 2021 10:40 am
Heres some pics of the new tweets and stereo system.
https://imgur.com/gallery/HqnOtBD
Nicely done! That is a very clean install. Those would have been my choice had I seen them first. What brand/model are those tweeters?

A1218
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mdmellott wrote:
Sun Jan 03, 2021 12:33 am
A1218 wrote:
Sat Jan 02, 2021 10:40 am
Heres some pics of the new tweets and stereo system.
https://imgur.com/gallery/HqnOtBD
Nicely done! That is a very clean install. Those would have been my choice had I seen them first. What brand/model are those tweeters?
Thanks

And they’re Kicker 46KST2004.


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