97 Maxima wont start!!

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spoonmectr
Posts: 3
Joined: Sat Sep 02, 2006 7:03 am

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Ive got a 97 Maxima that wont start. It cranks normally, except while its cranking the RPMs drop to 0, then it picks back up. Ive checked the coils and condensor and replaced the plugs. Ive also cleaned out the throttle body and IACV valve. After ive cranked it for sometime if I pull a plug it as fuel on it. The check engine light is on and it has the following codes, 0803, 0201, and 0503. Anyone have any ideas. Is there something that typically goes wrong on these cars? One of the codes is for the FR oxygen sensor, would that keep it from starting? Occasionally I will get it to start after consideralbe effort, then the car runs fine. But as soon as i shut it off, it wont start again.

spoonmectr


NISTECH
Posts: 10585
Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 4:17 am

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803= absl pres sensor [not primary input for engine operation]503= fr o2 sensor [not primary input for engine operation] (does not provide input till engine reaches operating temp)201=ignition signal primary. [ primary output] This is the line that fires the coils.

Obviously 1 and 2 or of uniportance to your condition. #3 may be but still doubt its your problem as this condition is pretty common with maxima coils and is generally only 1 or 2 at a time. By your description your car is flooding out. If you can hold the pedal to the floor and it will start that is your problem. Typically a low base idle,restricted AICV due to carbon build up ,or slow cranking speed is the cause of this. The A32 max had a TSB about using an updated starter to resolve cold start problems like this due to low crank speeds. However it was specific model yrs and dont know if it applied to your year. I typically find the base idle setting is way off or it is restricted with carbon build up.

The fact you have 3 codes in different areas but all 3 are under the hood area I have to wonder if the main engine harness near the rh strut tower has a couple broken wires. There is also a TSB about this. The fix is to go in a repair the broken wires. The best way to test this is to get the car running then go over to the harness and grab ahold of it where it spans from the engine to the strut tower. slowly twist it and hold it both directions and move it up and down alittle bit. no need to be violent with it just get a substantial movement out of it. If the car stumbles or acts stupid in any way you have likely found the source of all your codes.

EDIT: Also there is a multiple code TSB for water from evap dripping on ECM from floor vent. This is located directly below the center of the dash near the firewall. you can access this area from the passenger floor board. there is a small cover you can remove to see the ECM connector. look for water marks.

spoonmectr
Posts: 3
Joined: Sat Sep 02, 2006 7:03 am

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Thanks for all the info. I checked the ecm and it doesnt seem to have had any water on it, its still dusty. Also depressing the throttle during cranking doesnt seem to help it start any, it just makes the rpms drastically drop. i drained the battery so ill have to recharge it before i can continue with my diagnosis, but I will try that harness trick later. also temperature doesnt affect the problem, i can try when its has sat all night and it wont start. or if i get it started and run for a while it and turn it off it wont start again. Also it did die on me after i got it started one time. I was pulling out into an intersection and it just died, luckily it started right back up!

spoonmectr
Posts: 3
Joined: Sat Sep 02, 2006 7:03 am

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one other thing, on two of the coils when i pulled them out the top seperated from the part that goes into the tube. I wouldnt think this would keep the car from starting, just maybe run crappy? they seemed to go back together fine so i didnt know if this was normal. i checked the resistance of all the coils and they are all normal
Modified by spoonmectr at 11:15 AM 9/3/2006

574-240sx
Posts: 9432
Joined: Sun Dec 01, 2002 6:27 pm
Car: Nissans, Toyotas, Subaru

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Sounds like the same problem I had with my old 97 Max. I was told it was the same harness problem and would shake the harness. It would die and not start for a few hours and got progessively worse. I pulled codes off the ecu each time. Came up with the CPS (cam positioning sensor) twice out of 20+ times. I ended up replacing it think it was $50 at the dealer with a friend discount.


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