I recently purchased a 97 Infiniti j30. It was hit in the lft frnt corner.The air bags were also blown. I repaired the vehicle's body damage & replaced the driver's side airbag & control module under the console. I did not replace the passenger airbag.I have been driving the car now for about 3 weeks & I love it but it has a few issues I need help with.
1)The check engine light recently came on. I drove for awile with it on & it eventually went off. Then later came on again.Then off. Now it is on. I think the computer must have a bad code & is making it come on. How do I access the computer & clear all the codes?
2)The cd player is doing the same thing.It worked great for a while then I put a cd in & is says err.Then it works.Now says err.I think it has the same issue. Any suggestions?
3)The air bag light was flashing so I pulled the fuse.Now the light is on all the time.Any way to clear the code & get it to go off?
4)I recently purchased a 2nd remote on ebay with the same fcc #s etc. They sent me instructions on how to program it but its not working. Do I need to have the computer cleared in order to program the remote? Does anyone know how to program my new remote?
5)The car runs great. Has about 97k miles. I have heard it is essential to change the timing belt @ 100k. Is it difficult to do? Ball park on cost?
Any help is greatly appreciated.Thanks,Trevor
97 j30 help!
-
C-Kwik
- Moderator
- Posts: 8070
- Joined: Thu Aug 01, 2002 9:28 pm
- Car: 2013 Chevy Volt, 1991 Honda CRX DX
Nissan-infiniti ECU's should not be turning on and off intermittently under normal use. If a MIL light is triggered, the light should remain on until the problem is solved and the car is started 50 times with no faults. IIRC anyways. THe only time it would normally blink is under the self-diagnotics mode. But you have to manually trigger that at the ECU. You may have a shot or an open circuit. Perhaps try a self-diagnostics on the ECU to see if there are any codes stored. If there are none, then the light should not be coming on at all.
Is the CD player doing it at the same time the MIL light is blinking? If not, I'd guess it's not the same problem. If it's saying err, it may be having trouble reading the CD. Either it's a bad CD, or the CD player is damaged. If it was in an accident, it may have been damaged in the impact.
I'm not certain about this, but the airbag light may be going off since it has a deployed airbag in it. If that is the case, clearing the code would do no good since it would probably come back.
Don't know about #4 and #5.
Is the CD player doing it at the same time the MIL light is blinking? If not, I'd guess it's not the same problem. If it's saying err, it may be having trouble reading the CD. Either it's a bad CD, or the CD player is damaged. If it was in an accident, it may have been damaged in the impact.
I'm not certain about this, but the airbag light may be going off since it has a deployed airbag in it. If that is the case, clearing the code would do no good since it would probably come back.
Don't know about #4 and #5.
Re: 97 j30 help!
dueceswild67 wrote:1)The check engine light recently came on. I drove for awile with it on & it eventually went off. Then later came on again.Then off. Now it is on. I think the computer must have a bad code & is making it come on. How do I access the computer & clear all the codes?
On obdII cars this is normal if the failure comes and goes. The way the system works is if it detects a failure one time it sets a code but does not illuminate the cel. If the failure occurs again with in 40 or 80 warm up cycles[depends on the code]. It will trip the CEL. Then if it completes 2 or 3 good tests[again depends on the code] without failure it will turn the light off. The code will stay stored in the system the 40 to 80 warm up cycles then erase. So this explains the light on then off your experiancing. Could be any number of things you need to retrieve the code or go to an auto parts store that pulls codes for free.
Quote »2)The cd player is doing the same thing.It worked great for a while then I put a cd in & is says err.Then it works.Now says err.[/quote]
Not related I am sure and as c-kwik said either a bad disc or a intermitten failure in the unit.
Quote »3)The air bag light was flashing so I pulled the fuse.Now the light is on all the time.Any way to clear the code & get it to go off?[/quote]
The system will not go back into operational state till you replace the passenger air bag. the whole system need to be in tack for the light to go out. you will need to have any codes erased once you fix the bag. The codes are burned into the diagnostic sensor unit when they are set and the light will not go till the system is in tacked and codes cleared by scan tool.
Quote »4)I recently purchased a 2nd remote on ebay with the same fcc #s etc. They sent me instructions on how to program it but its not working. Do I need to have the computer cleared in order to program the remote? Does anyone know how to program my new remote?[/quote]
Do a search of maxima technical the procedure has been detailed in a post there. although your remote may not be right even if the numbers match.
Quote »5)The car runs great. Has about 97k miles. I have heard it is essential to change the timing belt @ 100k. Is it difficult to do? Ball park on cost?[/quote]
The belt is due at 105K miles. The cost varies depending on where you have it done and the labor cost in your area I think the belt is around 60 bucks. But it is also recommended to replace the tensioner, the 2 bypass hoses and clamps off the upper rad hose water inlet, t-stat ,and water pump,if any of the cam seals are leaking replace all of them. you would be looking at 6 to 7 hrs labor charge[again depends on where you go] and a couple hundred dollars in parts over all. The belt isnt that bad to do if you pay special attention to cam and crank marks. Use a factory belt it is marked to match each gear mark. the hardest parts for a doit yourselfer is getting the main pulley off and the cam gears if you need to do seals. Some special toolas are required to get those parts off. You can price quote all the parts in the link in my sig and you can order them from them as well.
good luck with it Trevor
Scott
-
dueceswild67
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Sat Feb 28, 2004 2:43 pm
I've heard Auto Zone can read the codes but how/who can clear them? Do you require a scan tool to clear the codes? Where is the hook up on the car? Anyway I can clear all the codes in the ECM my self?
I'm really not too concerned w/ the airbag light. I'm not replacing the pass air bag so I figure the light will just stay on. It sounds to me like clearing the ECM of codes might fix my service engine light.I'm taking the remote to the local dealer so they can tell me if it works & see if they can help me program it. I read in another forum that the cd issue is common for these cars. They said there is a connection under the dash that comes loose on occasion. Anyone ever heard of this? Any advise? I tried multiple cds.Same problem.
Thanks,Trevor
I'm really not too concerned w/ the airbag light. I'm not replacing the pass air bag so I figure the light will just stay on. It sounds to me like clearing the ECM of codes might fix my service engine light.I'm taking the remote to the local dealer so they can tell me if it works & see if they can help me program it. I read in another forum that the cd issue is common for these cars. They said there is a connection under the dash that comes loose on occasion. Anyone ever heard of this? Any advise? I tried multiple cds.Same problem.
Thanks,Trevor
Auto zone can clear the codes to if they have a scanner the problem is the failure keeps coming and going so clearing the code wont last long. Have them pull the code and post back here and we will see if we cant get it fixed. if its a evap leak code try replacing the fuel cap.
On the airbag if the light is on the system is not working and wont till you fix the whole system.
I know the radio problem is pretty common on all nissans but It is usually the radio/cd player itself.
I have a chart of what remotes go to what by part number and picture. Do you happen to know the part number if so post it and I can try to locate my chart and match it up for you.
On the airbag if the light is on the system is not working and wont till you fix the whole system.
I know the radio problem is pretty common on all nissans but It is usually the radio/cd player itself.
I have a chart of what remotes go to what by part number and picture. Do you happen to know the part number if so post it and I can try to locate my chart and match it up for you.
-
dueceswild67
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Sat Feb 28, 2004 2:43 pm
The fcc #s etc on back of the new remote are exactly the same as my original remote,so I'm pretty sure they are the same remote. I messed with programming it yesterday for awhile to no avail. When i put the key in & out 8 times the lights do not flash. Maybe there's on issue with the ECM,alarm or something. Maybe the codes I have in the ECM already are effecting it.On the original remote the panic button will not sound the alarm. Do these cars have a computer chip in the original key? I have one of the original keys that says INFINITI, but it is just a plain/simple key. I had copies made @ Walmart & they work fine. Do I need a special key? The owners manual say I sould have 3 keys to the veh.
keys dont matter for remotes on that year.
to get the hazard lights to flash. it goes like this [to be sure your doing this right]
keys in hand climb into the car close the door and lock the doors with the lock switch on your door. then stick the key in and out of the ignition till the hazard lights flash. one secong in one second out between swipes. no need to count how many times just plug it in and out till the lights flash. I have counted 17 times before I have had them flash so just go at it till they flash..I believe your remote might be right but your problem is your not getting it into set mode. once the lights do flash imediatly turn the key to the on poistion[dont start it] now press a button on your first remote. the hazards should flash, unlock and lock your doors with the switch on your door. now push a button on your next remote to program. continue this till all remotes are programmed. when done turn the ignition switch off and exit the vehicle with keys in hand. close your door and test your remotes.
to get the hazard lights to flash. it goes like this [to be sure your doing this right]
keys in hand climb into the car close the door and lock the doors with the lock switch on your door. then stick the key in and out of the ignition till the hazard lights flash. one secong in one second out between swipes. no need to count how many times just plug it in and out till the lights flash. I have counted 17 times before I have had them flash so just go at it till they flash..I believe your remote might be right but your problem is your not getting it into set mode. once the lights do flash imediatly turn the key to the on poistion[dont start it] now press a button on your first remote. the hazards should flash, unlock and lock your doors with the switch on your door. now push a button on your next remote to program. continue this till all remotes are programmed. when done turn the ignition switch off and exit the vehicle with keys in hand. close your door and test your remotes.
-
dueceswild67
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Sat Feb 28, 2004 2:43 pm
I took my car to the local Infiniti dealer.The confirmed the new remote is putting out a signal. I just can not get the hazzards to flash to start the programming. The panic button on my old remote does not sound the horn either.I wonder if there is a problem with the alarm system.
The dealer trie to charge me $85 to check the codes for the check engine light. I passed.I took my car to the local Auto Zone & the checked them for free. They came back as:150 02 sensor,300 random multiple misfire,174 System too lean bank 2
The guy @ Auto Zone said poss plugs or a coil. I had him clear the codes & no problems yet. When I first purchased the car it had been setting for awhile. the check engine light was not on. I pulled the air intake & sprayed carb & choke cleaner into the throttle bodies to clean some of the carbon out.After that the check engine light was on.
I figured out what the problem was with my cd player. I pulled it out & found the cd player would not spin the cd to read it. If I helped it with a screw driver then it worked fine. I think the cd motor just gave out. The most economic way to solve the problem is to buy a 6 disc changer. The car is already wired for it & there is a place under the rear deck to mount it.I hope this solves my problem.
The dealer trie to charge me $85 to check the codes for the check engine light. I passed.I took my car to the local Auto Zone & the checked them for free. They came back as:150 02 sensor,300 random multiple misfire,174 System too lean bank 2
The guy @ Auto Zone said poss plugs or a coil. I had him clear the codes & no problems yet. When I first purchased the car it had been setting for awhile. the check engine light was not on. I pulled the air intake & sprayed carb & choke cleaner into the throttle bodies to clean some of the carbon out.After that the check engine light was on.
I figured out what the problem was with my cd player. I pulled it out & found the cd player would not spin the cd to read it. If I helped it with a screw driver then it worked fine. I think the cd motor just gave out. The most economic way to solve the problem is to buy a 6 disc changer. The car is already wired for it & there is a place under the rear deck to mount it.I hope this solves my problem.
Judging by your codes I suspect you have an intermitten problem with one or more of your front coils. If the light comes on again you need to find out if it has a specific cyl miss code. which ever cyl that is you need to replace that coil. There is another posibility here actually 2 one would be a wire problem at the passenger side strut tower where the large wiring loom runs from the body to the engine. if you move that harness and the car starts to mis or stumble you need to open the loom and find the broken wire. The other problem could be at the ecm connector you could have moisture getting into it if the A/C evap drain is plugged the condensation could be backing up and spilling over onto the connector. it is located by the passengers left foot behind the cover.
Re: (PalmerWMD) correct URL
The correct URL for programming the remote key fob is:zerothread?id=33952