97' Altima will not run/almost runs

[jackblue7777]

Hi, I have a 97' altima that won't start or if it does it runs very rough and only at low RPMs.As I turn the engine over I can hear it trying to fire. Scanned and found PO340 AND PO325 codes.I have checked crank sensor and cam sensor and both apper to be good.Have check fuel line up to fuel rail and I am getting fuel there. Removed one spark plug and I have good fire at plug. I am not sure what to try next. Thanks in advance for any help.Mike

[nismopu]

Well, its pretty easy to see if the injectors are firing on the altima. You just have to pull the fuel rail(couple of bolts) and have the injectors fire into a tray or something as you crank the car. To be safe make sure you disconnect the coil. peace.

[jackblue7777]

Would all injectors fail at once? The engine ''hits'' as it turning over. Seems like its getting fuel and fire.I will keep digging.Thanks,Mike

[3Q Jay]

distributor failures common on U13. will give intermittent spark.check for oil tracking inside, UNDER the rotor under the dust cover (just looking inside the cap won't tell you).

[jackblue7777]

3Q Jay, I pulled the dist. and opened it ....lots of oil inside ''o'' ring looks stretched .Good chance this is the problem? Is there any way to attach pics here? Thanks,Mike

[jackblue7777]

Here's a few pic of the inside of the distributor.

http://i395.photobucket.com/al...8.jpgh ... al...6.jpg

[3Q Jay]

excellent photo spread, confirming source of failure.note the 360 microslits, each corresponding to 1 degree of 'timing'.see how even the 'old school' test of spark was insufficient in this case? where oil tracking is missing, you still get the occasional spark.

you *may* be able to tempt fate and clean it up real good (especially around the microslits) and TEMPORARILY get by until your replacement from one of our nissan sponsors comes in.part number 44200-1e420(R).

non-OEM at your own peril.

[jackblue7777]

well, tried new distributor... same results. I have good fire at plugs, Tops of pistons are wet with fuel. I am getting everything , fire ,fuel and timing.I believe Timing is there. Could the crank sensor be in play here?

[3Q Jay]

when replacing the distributor there are some casting marks (put the needle in the 'vee') that should get you close enough until you get a light on it.you did use a genuine nissan part?

how is compression?any stored codes in ecu?

[jackblue7777]

Used after market, barely could afford that. If that was the problem it should have at least worked for a little while. I do not have a compression gauge, but wouldn't that be a progressive problem.The engine was running great ,good power, good gas mileage, then it all the sudden it begins stalling and finely will not restart.There where to codes PO325 AND PO340. I also replace the crank sensor.

[3Q Jay]

must clear old codes. ecu still thinks the CAM angle sensor (P0340) is in failsafe mode.

btw, if P0340 reappears, then your new distributor is not correctly signaling the ecu.

CRANK sensor should be irrelevant.your other code is a bad knock sensor. common after 10 years especially if even a whiff of an overheat. won't affect starting nor low rpm operation though.

[jackblue7777]

What's the best way to clear the codes? Can I disconnect the battery or do I need a special tool.Thanks,Mike

[3Q Jay]

how did you read them--with an OBD-II scan tool? if so, should be able to use that to reset.

the other way is to twist the screw on the ecu (gently).

[jackblue7777]

I borrowed a scan tool very reluctantly (on there part ) from a local parts store to check the codes two weeks ago and returned it to them that day.Doesn't make sense to pay $60.00 for one of these only to use once or twice. I will take my chances with the ecu.Thanks
Modified by jackblue7777 at 7:30 AM 10/9/2008

[jackblue7777]

I think I have cleared the codes. Turned the screw(gently) clockwise fully till stop waited 2 sec turned counterclockwise. Received 5 long and 5 short flashes.Repeated above steps and light stopped flashing.Light stays on when the switch is on, but will go off when switch is turned to starting position.Is there any way to bench check the replacement distributor? Thanks 3Q Jay for all your help,maybe it's time for me to drag it to the HIGH dollar shop and hope I do not need to refi the house to get it back.Thanks,Mike

[3Q Jay]

I think I have cleared the codes. Turned the screw(gently) clockwise fully till stop waited 2 sec turned counterclockwise. Received 5 long and 5 short flashes.Repeated above steps and light stopped flashing.Light stays on when the switch is on, but will go off when switch is turned to starting position.

that all is good.

do you have the old distributor still?

do you have an fsm?

make sure you are getting battery voltage to the distributor harness orange wire (there is a relay in the circuit [ECCS relay]).make sure black is going to a good ground.

rotate distributor shaft by hand with harness still mated and ignition ON, look on each of the other two wires (backprobe) referenced to ground with meter on AC, 100 mV range. you should see alternating 0V to full scale peg as the slits go by.

[jackblue7777]

Sorry for the long delay in my responce, but I had a shop take a look at it....Timing chain has jumped a tooth on the bottom.$800 - $1,000 to repair. Is it worth it on this car? 117,265 milesBody is in great shape. The inside is ok . Should I gamble and have it repaired or cut my losses and part it out/scrap?Thanks for any advise.Mike

[3Q Jay]

first off, i'm skeptical of this diagnosis. what evidence do they have that confirms this?while it does fit the hard starting, no power profile, i've not heard of this on the ka24de. maybe the 240sx guys have.

'jumping' a tooth means that your timing chain guides are all messed up, or somebody performed improper repairs.on th '95, it had over 120k when i did the chain/guides/tensioners pre-emptively while resealing the front cover (there is an o-ring down low on the back side of the front cover that is prone to leak.anyway, the (old) parts still looked new--so again i'm skeptical unless yours has had oil neglect and sludge/varnish buildup.

[nismotuner1]

I would steer clear of that shop b/c there trying to take you for a ride!!!! the only way they would even be able to tell is if they took both of your timing covers off and counted the links. I have never heard of a ka24de jumping a tooth in a altima or a 240sx and I own both. And furthermore the lower timing chain cover is made so when you put a chain on the crank sprocket and tigthen the lower cover down you can let go of the chain and it wont come off the sprocket!! I'm not buyin it, you have a problem somwhere else!! I am 99.9% shure this can't happen

[anomalyjustin]

agreed. this is an extremely unlikely scenario.